Hurah, engine starts, BUT...

Message

ecurie · #1 Post by **ecurie** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 3:29 pm

After 3 years I just started the engine of my Sprint. To my surprise it catched immediately and then died.

Apparently, it will only keep running when I keep the key turned over to its maximum. Once I let go of it and the key returns to its normal position the engine dies.

As I'm the world's worst electrician, I guess I must have wired something up the wrong way (coil, starter, ... ), altough I never dismantled the steering column lock.

Anybody want to have a guess ?

Benoit

dailysprinter · #2 Post by **dailysprinter** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 6:57 pm

Maybe it's not getting enough fuel to run?

Dollyautosprint · #3 Post by **Dollyautosprint** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 8:27 pm

Sounds like a ballast resistor problem to me.

ecurie · #4 Post by **ecurie** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:10 pm

It should get enough fuel as it runs perfectly as long as I keep the key turned over to its maximum. It just doesn't seem to get a spark anymore when you let the key go back to its normal position (you can still hear the electric fuel pump clicking so I guess fuel is getting to the carbs)

" Sounds like a ballast resistor problem to me. "

What is a ballast resistor and where can I find it ? (told you I know nothing about electrics)

Benoit

TONYSPRINTER · #5 Post by **TONYSPRINTER** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:27 pm

1 of my sprints was doing this a while back had to keep the key turned all the way for it to run.
turned out to be a fuse in the fuse box not connecting properly changed it and all was fine hope its as simple for you

dailysprinter · #6 Post by **dailysprinter** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 7:09 am

maybe a dodgy connection in the ignition switch?

ecurie · #7 Post by **ecurie** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 8:12 am

I guess I must have an earthing problem. When I put the contact on :

- the seatbelt warning sign burns
- the indicator light burns constantly
- when flashing the headlights the oil light comes on

Does anybody know where there should be earth connections ?

Benoit

AndyThomas · #8 Post by **AndyThomas** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 8:19 am

I would agree with Doloautosprint and suggest the Ballast Resistor / Ballast wire. If this is missing the coil is only powered up when the key is in the starter position. When the key is in the normal position the Coil should be powered via the Ballast wire / resistor.

Andy.

ecurie · #9 Post by **ecurie** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 8:23 am

AndyThomas wrote:I would agree with Doloautosprint and suggest the Ballast Resistor / Ballast wire. If this is missing the coil is only powered up when the key is in the starter position. When the key is in the normal position the Coil should be powered via the Ballast wire / resistor.

Andy.

And where should that wire be connected on the coil ?

Benoit

AndyThomas · #10 Post by **AndyThomas** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 9:47 am

From memory with the iginition switch in the normal running position you should have approx 6V on the Coil + side. The ballast wire runs from the ignition switch circuit to the Coil +. When the starter is engaged the ballast resistor is bypassed and 12V is applied to the coil +. The Ballast wire is hidden in the wiring loom to the coil. This may be why the engine runs while you are cranking.

Connecting a volt meter to the Coil + and ground should verify this.

The Ballast wire is only a couple of ohms.

I hope this helps.

Andy.

Jon Tilson · #11 Post by **Jon Tilson** » Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:29 pm

You should have 2 wires to the coil plus side. One is the ballast bypass feed that gives full battery voltage when cranking and the other is the ballasted feed from the ignition switch. The switch could be faulty or the wire to the coil broken somewhere. Wiggle the multiplug from the switch under the column.

Jonners

ecurie · #12 Post by **ecurie** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:15 am

Jon Tilson wrote:You should have 2 wires to the coil plus side. One is the ballast bypass feed that gives full battery voltage when cranking and the other is the ballasted feed from the ignition switch. The switch could be faulty or the wire to the coil broken somewhere. Wiggle the multiplug from the switch under the column.

Jonners

I only have one wire on the coil+ side : it's a white/yellow and goes from the coil to (I think) the starter motor, where it shares a connection with a white/red wire.

On the coil- side there are two wires : white/black from the distributor and white/grey coming from the main wiring loom.

This doesn't seem to be correct. Which is the second wire that should be attachted to the coil+ side ?

Benoit

AndyThomas · #13 Post by **AndyThomas** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:24 am

I think if you connect the white/grey wire to the Coil + this may be the ballast feed (Check a Haynes Manual). The white/black wire is the correct wire to the distributor. The Yellow/Red wire is the +12V from the starter.

Andy.

Sprint36 · #14 Post by **Sprint36** » Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:37 am

Don't forget the rev counter. There should be two wires to -ve and two to +ve. sorry don't know all the colours, I'm at work.

David

ecurie · #15 Post by **ecurie** » Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:21 am

I tried all possible wire combinations, but nothing seemd to work.

So yesterday, I bought a Lucas 12V Gold coil, mounted it, laid a wire between the fusebox and the + side of the coil, and hey presto, it works.

The engine now runs, altough the Webers will need a little bit of adjusting.

Now I just have to bleed the brakes and clutch and take it for a test drive.

Still heaps of big and little things to do though before it can be registred though.

Thanks for all the help on this ballast resistor problem.

Benoit

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Hurah, engine starts, BUT...

Hurah, engine starts, BUT...

Andy is right....

Re: Andy is right....