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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 1:01 pm 
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I'm venturing into the engine bay, in an effort to change the head gasket on the 1500 SE, by following the Haynes manual for the 1500 and 1500 TC.

So far I have:
- disconnected the battery
- drained the coolant
- removed the bottom and top hoses, to be replaced
- removed the alternator
- detached the advance/retard pipe at the distributor vacuum unit
- removed the distributor
- loosened the four nuts holding the manifold to the head
- detached the temp gauge sender unit cable

I've now come up against two problems:

- the manual says to disconnect the heater pipe connection union nut at the rear of the water pump body, prior to removing the water pump, but I can't locate this nut. Where is it please, and what does it look like?

- there isn't enough room to draw out the rear three nuts holding the manifold to the head, as the carburettor assembly is in the way. Do I have to first remove this? If so, by doing what please? I want to disassemble as little as possible ideally. The manual isn't clear on the point

Already well beyond my previous experience, but enjoying learning. Any help with the above much appreciated. Thanks

Regards,
Richard

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:04 pm 
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Some of the manifold nuts are a bit awkward to get to. Removing the carbs shouldn't be too difficult. Have you got the factory publications? If not, you can download them from HERE

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:02 pm 
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Thank-you for that. I shall investigate this BT Cloud thing.

Meantime, does anyone have any thoughts re. Problem 1 please? Many thanks.

Regards,
Richard

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:33 pm 
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Richard, it's the union nut for the water bypass they're on about, it runs under the exhaust manifold. DON'T even try to remove it, it will almost certainly break something! Just take out the 3 bolts holding the water pump housing to the head then the pipe is held by the rearmost exhaust manifold nut, take that off and wangle the pump housing and pipe off the stud and let it hang. The manifold nuts are not easy to get to but you CAN get to them all with 3/8 drive sockets and a u/j fitting and without removing the carbs.

Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 7:26 am 
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Hello Steve - hope you are well. Thank-you for that, will give it a go.

Regards,
Richard

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:28 am 
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While as Steve says it may be possible to get at the manifold nuts off with carbs in place I have never managed it on a dolly if the heatshield is intact.
There is also better access in the Spits that I'm more used to.

I would take off the carbs two nuts each and then its all a lot clearer and will save you time fitting the manifold gaskets etc with easier access.

Also I can see the point about the union nut and the possibility of undoing it breaking, but the pipe it is part of is worth having a look at. It can suddenly fail
with corrosion and its worthwhile freeing up the big nut so the pipe can be checked out IMHO. Give it a dose of plus gas for an hour or so before undoing.
Its by the bottom radiator hose attachment

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 4:38 pm 
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Right, there is no way that the manifolds are coming off without removal of the carburettor assembly, as it is part of the inlet manifold that is getting in the way of removal of the bolts holding it to the head, and the only way around that is to be able to move the inlet manifold outwards as the bolts are withdrawn, which requires that the carbs be out of the way.

I've now managed to suspend the carb assembly and, by removing the four bolts referred to by Jon, draw it back a little from the manifolds. Before I move on to the manifolds, I want to be sure of my ground. As far as I can see, the manifolds are secured by four bolts at the top (which, by means of dairy maid shoulder collar-like pieces of iron, secure both inlet and exhaust manifolds) plus two bolts at the bottom which secure just the exhaust manifold. Do have I have this right please?

When I come to remove the head itself, do I leave the springs in place, or should they be removed first? Many thanks.

My apologies to all those for whom this is Mickey Mouse stuff. Am feeling my way gently, step by careful step.

Regards,
Richard

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:34 pm 
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IIRC you have to get the ones underneath off too.

They also have those lozengey things that hold both manifolds with the one nut.

The underneath ones should have longer nuts to help spannering...

While since I did one now though...so your mileage may vary.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 12:39 pm 
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Rocker gear stays attached to the head.

Get the carbs right the hell out of it, you've made life harder than it need be leaving them in this long. That is job no.4 in 1500 head removal after 1. Get a brew, 2. disconnect battery and 3. open rad drain tap. After (normally before) removing the 4 bolts there's only 2 cables and 1 fuel pipe to disconnect. The carbs stay attached to the airbox so all the linkages stay connected. The choke is easy to adjust up come refitting, it's very crude. The throttle is easy too but you can avoid needing to by not touching the nut above support bracket, just loosen the one below and run it right off the thread.

There are 8 fixings for the manifolds. 2 longer clamps, 4 shorter and 2 plain nuts. 2 of the shorter clamps require a a 3/8 drive wobble extension, one that is rigid clashes on one of the manifolds. Do not touch the 2 bolts that secure the two manifolds together.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:23 pm 
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Quote:
open rad drain tap.
I'm pretty sure that the 1500 has a block drain too (bottom left under manifold).


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:57 pm 
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It does, good point as you need to use the block drain to avoid putting water in the bores.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 8:58 pm 
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And for Spit owners fitting the 4-2-1 exhaust manifold efforts you will need to separate the inlet from the exhaust
by loosening the two bolts that join them....the ones you were just told not to....

Then revel in never doing a flange gasket again...

Sadly not available to dolly owners...damn shame that nobody has sorted that issue. It must be doable.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:35 am 
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Quote:
Richard, it's the union nut for the water bypass they're on about, it runs under the exhaust manifold. DON'T even try to remove it, it will almost certainly break something! Just take out the 3 bolts holding the water pump housing to the head then the pipe is held by the rearmost exhaust manifold nut, take that off and wangle the pump housing and pipe off the stud and let it hang.
Spot on, exactly what I did when doing the head on my Spitfire recently!

Also get the decent Payen gasket set with the black head gasket, the dimpled silver type I fitted at first (because I had one) lasted a few hundred miles before it fell apart..

Also don't forget to double check the head studs are tightened down to the correct torque, mine needed tightening up quite a bit!

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 11:01 am 
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Quote:
you need to use the block drain to avoid putting water in the bores.
I can confirm that from bitter experience !
Quote:
get the decent Payen gasket
A bit of Wellseal is not be a bad idea either.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 2:58 pm 
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Thank-you for all the assistance. When I turn back to this I'll remember to:
- undo the block drain
- disconnect the carb cables and fuel line, so as to move the carbs out of the way
- wangle the water pump out of the way, without disconnecting the pipe connection nut
- look for eight bolts securing the manifolds
- get a Payen gasket and some Wellseal

Excellent advice and help. Thanks.

Regards,
Richard

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