1300fwd overheating
1300fwd overheating
Further to previous topic, I have permanently fitted an MGB tempreture gauge in degree's F with its own fitted sensor. The existing Triumph sensor and gauge is still fitted and is interesting to note that this reads towards the red when MGB gauge shows a constant 190F. Today I took the car on motorway for about a 90 miles round trip at a speed of about 55 - 60mph. On reaching our destination the car was just starting to run hot after being normal for the 45 mile trip. On way back after several hours cooling, the car showed overheating with both gauges showing hot at about 200F - 210F. Stopped for 30mins at a service station to let it cool down. Checked the water in radiator and it was full so travelled slowly home. On reaching home the tempreture was about 215F and you could hear radiator boiling and expansion bottle full of hot water.
I have previously used a radiator cleaner to clear any crud from system, flushed and filled with anti-freeze, and it has run well at normal tempreture although at only a 30mins drive. The heater did not seem to get very hot so I clamped the hose that returns water to the engine after the manifold and forced the water though the heater and now it gets very hot so water is circulating well. I have opened the bleed hole in the head, which had been capped off and fitted a brass screw so I am able to bleed any air from the engine. The thermostat opens fully in a boiling saucepan so that is working well.
The engine has had new rings and bearings fitted so I thought that was why it was running hot, but I am now lost as to what to do next?
Should I fit an electric fan? Has anyone fitted one as there is little space? Any thoughts anyone?
Many Thanks for any comments. Pete
I have previously used a radiator cleaner to clear any crud from system, flushed and filled with anti-freeze, and it has run well at normal tempreture although at only a 30mins drive. The heater did not seem to get very hot so I clamped the hose that returns water to the engine after the manifold and forced the water though the heater and now it gets very hot so water is circulating well. I have opened the bleed hole in the head, which had been capped off and fitted a brass screw so I am able to bleed any air from the engine. The thermostat opens fully in a boiling saucepan so that is working well.
The engine has had new rings and bearings fitted so I thought that was why it was running hot, but I am now lost as to what to do next?
Should I fit an electric fan? Has anyone fitted one as there is little space? Any thoughts anyone?
Many Thanks for any comments. Pete
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
Sounds like your water pump impellor may have disintegrated....
Either that or your radiator is more blocked than you thought.
It doesnt need an electric fan. My Spit 1500 will run around all day with no fan on at all as long as periods stuck
in traffic dont last too long...even then I can often get away with just the heater fan and the spit heater is no great
heating device....
Jonners
Either that or your radiator is more blocked than you thought.
It doesnt need an electric fan. My Spit 1500 will run around all day with no fan on at all as long as periods stuck
in traffic dont last too long...even then I can often get away with just the heater fan and the spit heater is no great
heating device....
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
I would suggest that it is the radiator that is partially blocked. No amount of cleaners will shift blocked tubes, the only way is to poke them through, and that required the header tank to come off. hence a rad specialist.
Not sure if that service is still offered, but worth asking.
If not it is a replacement rad or recore.
If you feel inventive there are much cheaper radiators (£16-40) that will fit with a few tweeks.....
Not sure if that service is still offered, but worth asking.
If not it is a replacement rad or recore.
If you feel inventive there are much cheaper radiators (£16-40) that will fit with a few tweeks.....
Clive Senior
Brighton
Brighton
Re: 1300fwd overheating
The water pump vanes are ok so agree with your thoughts on blocked core.
The front design of the 1300fwd is different from other cars insomuch as the grill only lets air in to the lower half of the radiator, the top half is shielded by 'nose' of bonnet and section above grill and have attached some photos to help describe what I mean.
It is doubtful if I could find or afford a new radiator and a second hand one would possibly be blocked like mine.
My thoughts are to fit a 10" electric fan in front of the radiator and move radiator back to make room, after metal four blade fan is taken off. I think with some modification I can fit it in and then the fan would cool a 10" diameter section of the radiator rather than bottom section.
I would appreciate any thoughts anyone has?
Many thanks
The front design of the 1300fwd is different from other cars insomuch as the grill only lets air in to the lower half of the radiator, the top half is shielded by 'nose' of bonnet and section above grill and have attached some photos to help describe what I mean.
It is doubtful if I could find or afford a new radiator and a second hand one would possibly be blocked like mine.
My thoughts are to fit a 10" electric fan in front of the radiator and move radiator back to make room, after metal four blade fan is taken off. I think with some modification I can fit it in and then the fan would cool a 10" diameter section of the radiator rather than bottom section.
I would appreciate any thoughts anyone has?
Many thanks
- Attachments
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- The inside view showing position of grill and where it feeds air to lower section of radiator
- DSC09929.JPG (62.5 KiB) Viewed 1388 times
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- The front end shape showing grill and top of radiator
- DSC09928.jpg (65.26 KiB) Viewed 1388 times
Re: 1300fwd overheating
Try a few places for quotations to get your radiator recored - they simply use your existing frame and cut out the old rubbish an fit a new important bit.
I'm going out on a limb here and guess that it will cost no more than £150.
I'm going out on a limb here and guess that it will cost no more than £150.
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
If the core is blocked then the rad is shot and no amount of extra air will help! You're not too far from me, give Radiator Services in Telford a bell, their number is 01952 613498, they've done loads of weird and wonderful rads for me and they're not too heavy on the pen. Oh and don't worry if they use another name when they answer the phone, they have about 3 different businesses working from the same site!
Steve
Steve
Last edited by Carledo on Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
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'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
Doubtful a fan will help if overheating happens on the move.
Really, a cheap modern rad will be more efficient and many available, just pick your size......
Really, a cheap modern rad will be more efficient and many available, just pick your size......
Clive Senior
Brighton
Brighton
Re: 1300fwd overheating
I can recommend GAT Radiators in Brierley Hill Pete. I have had both my sprint rads uprated by them. One more thing you could check Pete is the distributor mechanical advance weights because my fathers 1300 ran hot especially in the summer months and he found that these weights were seized thus making the cars ignition run retarded , when he got the dizzy working correctly the engine ran much cooler.
- Triumph1300
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
Flush the heater, flush the rad, flush the block.
If that doesn't work, come to Coventry, I'll sort you a rad out
Bruce
If that doesn't work, come to Coventry, I'll sort you a rad out
Bruce
BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!
- xvivalve
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
2nd vote for GAT in Brierley Hill. Excellent service, knowledgeable and relatively cheap.
Have you checked the surface temp in various places on the rad?
Have you checked the surface temp in various places on the rad?
- Triumph1300
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
Something else to check, warm the car up, open the bonnet, rev the engine to cruising type revs, whilst watching the bottom hose. If the hose collapses, it's either a faulty hose, or blocked rad.
BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!
Re: 1300fwd overheating
This is a brilliant club, such good advice - thanks Guy's.
Seems consistant driving on motorway at 55-60 causes it to cook, short runs it seems fine. Bruce, I have checked bottom hose and it is OK under load, but this could be due to it being new and strong and still having flow so not completely blocked.
I will talk to GAT as recommended and also check dizzy weights, also check timing as car does not pull very well at hills, quite poor in fact - this also does not help does it?
Will report back soon with findings.
Thanks again.
Seems consistant driving on motorway at 55-60 causes it to cook, short runs it seems fine. Bruce, I have checked bottom hose and it is OK under load, but this could be due to it being new and strong and still having flow so not completely blocked.
I will talk to GAT as recommended and also check dizzy weights, also check timing as car does not pull very well at hills, quite poor in fact - this also does not help does it?
Will report back soon with findings.
Thanks again.
- Triumph1300
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
I wonder if the timing is retarded?
BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!
- xvivalve
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
Doesn't pull well on hills? Timing? Dizzy weights? Binding brakes?
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Re: 1300fwd overheating
The best place to start with your timing is the book figures and take it from there. What fuel are you using? Some people have reported better running on 98 RON fuel (the closest we can get to 4-star these days) with the timing set to book figures.
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
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West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle