Hello,
Is there a way of testing the operation of the starter solonoid (Sprint) off the car? I removed one which was just clicking, and when removed the spring went flying and I found the piston boot bit had disintegrated, so I put on a spare solonoid but now nothing happens when I turn the key, except the dash lights dim as if the starter is operating. Perhaps I should just repair the original, but it would be useful to test this too before fitting!
Yes, when the solenoid is assembled with the motor, use jump leads to put 12 volts across it earthing through the case. You will see the dog shoot out and spin under normal operation.
There are 2 windings in the Dolomite starter solenoid. A pull-in winding and a hold-in winding. If you can get access to a low-reading milli-ohm meter the pull-in coil should measure about .25 ohms between the 2 large terminals.
The hold-in coil should measure about 0.75 ohms from the larger of the two Lucar terminals to the solenoid body.
Alternatively if you have high current measuring equipment, the the respective currents would be approx; 48 A and 16A. Checking by substitution with know good unit is probably easiest .
Tony.
Thanks for this, I think a new solonoid might be an idea as it needs to be reliable, not that it's not great fun laying with one's head between cold concrete and the sub frame of course. Do solonoid come refurbished or is new best? Any suppliers best? I'll check to see if the club do them... Are Lucas ones still available?
I guess I need to remove the starter really don't I...?
Another option is the hi-torque modern units, I believe there are some adapted for the high temperatures experienced by the Sprint and 1850 due to their proximity to the exhaust manifold.
I think a couple of people on here have them.
Yes, I've bought 2 of these aftermarket hi-torque starters now. One for the 1850 and one for the family MGB. They are quite expensive but do work well. No more click-a-click-a-click on the 1850. They just work. They also have the advantage that the switched current from the ignition switch ( on the 1850) is a lot lower and work in a different way of having a higher speed motor geared down to get the torque to turn the engine over. I didn't know they was a version that worked in high temperatures. I just bought the standard 1850 one from Mr Rimmers. And Mr Moss for the MGB.
Tony.
sometimes the clicking can be caused by a poor condition battery.
I can't remember if it is possible to fit the solenoid the wrong way round? i.e that the battery lead ternimal on the solnoid is not connected to the tag that goes to the starter motor instead..
