Looks like the Dolly's head needs to come off.
I'm considering getting some one else to do it. Does anybody know a good, reliable garage around the Notts area that won't mean I have to mortgage the house to get it done?
Head Reconditioning
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MIG Wielder
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Re: Head Reconditioning
Hi Alan, Do I remember correctly that you also have an 1850 ?
If so the garage will need to know that the angled studs will have to come out, for which they will need the special tool.
Has the head been off recently ? In which case you may be O.K.
If not it can be a really frustrating job trying to get these studs out. Only 2 came out first time on mine and the other 3 snapped off . I reckon I spent about 20 hours over the space of a week on this ( 20 hours x £65 / hour = £Ouch ).
I would experiment to see what dose and doesn't come out.
Good Luck,
Tony.
If so the garage will need to know that the angled studs will have to come out, for which they will need the special tool.
Has the head been off recently ? In which case you may be O.K.
If not it can be a really frustrating job trying to get these studs out. Only 2 came out first time on mine and the other 3 snapped off . I reckon I spent about 20 hours over the space of a week on this ( 20 hours x £65 / hour = £Ouch ).
I would experiment to see what dose and doesn't come out.
Good Luck,
Tony.
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trackerjack
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- Location: hampshire
Re: Head Reconditioning
Well if its any help I have done quite a few slanty jobbies now including Stag (double the trouble) and there was only one head that refused to release its slant studs and that was from a car I was given, that had spent 6 years close to Bognor sea front and had to be dragged onto the trailer with all wheels seized too.
Double nuts on the exposed thread and lock them together and tighten one to the other and then try to undo using the lower nut.
When replacing the studs make sure there is no grunge in the hole and don't do them up tight, just screw them in with a screw driver and as soon as they reach the thread depth leave it. You can look along the top of them in case one has not gone down far enough. I put just a smear of copper slip on them too.
Double nuts on the exposed thread and lock them together and tighten one to the other and then try to undo using the lower nut.
When replacing the studs make sure there is no grunge in the hole and don't do them up tight, just screw them in with a screw driver and as soon as they reach the thread depth leave it. You can look along the top of them in case one has not gone down far enough. I put just a smear of copper slip on them too.
track action maniac.
The lunatic is out................heres Jonny!
The lunatic is out................heres Jonny!
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Jon Tilson
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- Location: Middlesex
Re: Head Reconditioning
I reckon you have been lucky TJ....
My success rate using your time honoured double locked nuts technique is about 50% engine wise....
Jonners
My success rate using your time honoured double locked nuts technique is about 50% engine wise....
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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MIG Wielder
- TDC Member
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- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 2:52 pm
Re: Head Reconditioning
There is this ....
https://dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/Dolomite_1 ... ad_removal
https://dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/Dolomite_1 ... ad_removal
Re: Head Reconditioning
20 hrs x £65= £1300,,glad ive got 1300 
Dolomite 1300,1980`V`reg in british racing brown(russet),3.63 diff with 21t speedo pinion,95%poly`d,HL clocks,standard wheels with SE covers wrapt in 175 70 13,mot`d 19-09-2014,been off the since 1990,(july2017) stainless steel exhaust 3-piece,(xmas2018) wooden mountney steering wheel,(june2020) new monroe shock(radial front,gas-matic rears) with -1" lower`d springs all round.