Sprint crank pulley

[Aleco]

Lots of posts today!
Two questions please can someone tell socket size for the crank pulley?
Does anyone have any clever way of getting it undone. I'm in a bit of an unusual situation in that all four wheels are off the ground so can't put it in gear and use the starter.
I think the only route I can take is to remove the starter and lock the ring gear and then use a massive lever on the end of the socket?

I just feel this car is fighting me every step of the way, I sort one thing only to find something else. All this started with trying to sort the rear axle alignment and a split clutch hose.

Any thoughts?

Alex

[Carledo]

Get a decent knuckle bar at least 2 ft long and the correct socket. Put the socket on the nut from below and turn clockwise until the bar contacts something solid, subframe is best. Then, with the gearbox in neutral, crank the starter over. It will make an unholy BANG and you may need to do it several times to free the nut, but it's the easiest way.
Someone on here will tell you what size the socket is, I can't remember ATM.

Steve

[tony g]

Socket is 1 1/2"

Tony

[tony g]

On stands you can also get some one in the car to hold the brakes on "hard" with it in gear and pull on the bar from above

Tony

[Robert 352]

I have used one of these tools recently for undoing (and doing up) the front pulley bolt on a Japanese engine where the ½ drive air operated rattle gun I have was just not powerful enough.

breaker bar.jpg (46.25 KiB) Viewed 1712 times

It was an excellent, and easy way of undoing the bolt. A couple of good belts with a club hammer, rather than the light hammer shown here, and the bolt spun off.

breaker bar in position.jpg (28.59 KiB) Viewed 1712 times

The tool I used was sold under the JTC brand, and is described as a JTC-4699 1/2" power bar hand impact wrench.

This may not be of any great help to you personally unless you have access to someone who can lend you this tool. Perhaps though you could fabricate something like this which would do the job.

Best of luck!

Robert

[Carledo]

I have used one of these tools recently for undoing (and doing up) the front pulley bolt on a Japanese engine where the ½ drive air operated rattle gun I have was just not powerful enough.

breaker bar.jpg

It was an excellent, and easy way of undoing the bolt. A couple of good belts with a club hammer, rather than the light hammer shown here, and the bolt spun off.

breaker bar in position.jpg

The tool I used was sold under the JTC brand, and is described as a JTC-4699 1/2" power bar hand impact wrench.

This may not be of any great help to you personally unless you have access to someone who can lend you this tool. Perhaps though you could fabricate something like this which would do the job.

Best of luck!

Robert

That looks like a clever and competent solution Robert. And something I could fabricate pretty easily. Most supertight crank pulley bolts succumb to the knuckle bar and starter treatment, but I have perrenial problems with anti-clockwise rotation Honda engines cos that method doesn't work and they are always stupidly tight cos the very design means they tighten up in service. I have a collection of Truck size tools, just for this one job and still often damage myself in the process. This looks a much better idea altogether.

Steve

[Aleco]

Thanks for all the great responses. I've had a look online and the hand impact wrench can be bought for about £40.
Any excuse to buy a new tool! I'll let you know how I get on

[cleverusername]

Thanks for all the great responses. I've had a look online and the hand impact wrench can be bought for about £40.
Any excuse to buy a new tool! I'll let you know how I get on

Be careful with a cheap impact tool, they might well struggle to ondo the nut. Mine could only do it with a bigger airline. I can find the socket size out tonight if you like, I am in the middle of a rebuild, so had to buy one.

There is a metric impact socket that will fit.

[Mad Mart]

As Tony said, the socket you need is 1½" A/F. A cheap cordless impact driver (like mine) will not undo the bolt. Plus, if the engine is still in situ, you probably won't have room for it. If the engine is out, I drop the sump and jam a piece of wood against the con rod.

[Jon Tilson]

I've only got one method for this with engine in situ and starter still connected....
Use the starter...

Brace the socket and breaker bar against the n/s chassis rail top with suitable bit of wood and just crank starter. It will come off pdq...

Just like Steve said...

I like the Robert tool too....nice solution.

Jonners

[Aleco]

Does anyone know where to buy a 11/2" AF socket?

Everywhere I've looked on line and found every socket size except 11/2"!!!

[Mad Mart]

https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/iss-1-2-dr ... oClJvw_wcB

Right at the bottom.

Or you could try these:-

http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/tools/sockets.htm

[Aleco]

Brilliant cheers Mart.

Annoyingly I had looked at that website but didn't find anything

[Aleco]

Actually that wasn't quite true, I did find that socket but it was coming up as costing 80 odd quid.

I was clearly looking in the wrong bit.

Cheers again