A Dolomite owner once more…

[ohutter]

Hello!

More than 5 years ago now I was the proud owner of a white 1500 HL, and I’ve just got another.
This one is an auto, which is looking a bit tired with regard to the bodywork and needs some tinkering. Here are some photos of the old girl:









I'd like to get her up to a good standard again, but don't have a lot of money to throw at her just yet so will move along leisurely.

A few questions:

Firstly, how on earth does the rear set base / squab fit in? I’ve tried pushing it every which way and it doesn’t seem to want to sit back into place.

Secondly, when slowing down, sometimes the shift down to either neutral or first (I’m not sure which) is quite loud and happens with a little shake/bump. Is this normal or something to be worried about?

Thirdly, one of the rear doors makes a horrid juddering sound when opening (not the normal click). Any ideas what usually causes this?

Thanks very much,
Oliver

[harvey]

Secondly, when slowing down, sometimes the shift down to either neutral or first (I’m not sure which) is quite loud and happens with a little shake/bump. Is this normal or something to be worried about?

The clonk/thump is on the 2-1 downshift with a closed throttle, and is caused by the gearbox line pressure being too high. It will be accompanied by late upshifts, sometimes to the point where there's a need to lift off the throttle a bit to get it to change up. It's not a serious problem, too high pressures being a lot better than too low, but it can be annoying, and can be cured by lowering the idle speed if that's too high, or if not adjusting the kickdown cable. Make sure there isn't any slack in the drivetrain as that will make things worse.

[RJF_70]

Welcome Oliver, I too have a 1500 auto although not a HL, And mine has always had this thud when changing down to 1st, sometimes worse than others! I have changed the gearbox mount and subframe twice, changed the transmission fluid 3 times, diff oil twice, checked and re checked all drive train linkages etc and it's still there to the point where I don't really notice it at all anymore!
My 1850 doesn't do it at all in fact it has a very refined change into 1st.
Rich..

[Magenta Auto Sprint]

welcome to the worlds of Dolomite autos,

I have an 73 1850 Auto and 75 Sprint Auto,
My 1850 changes very smoothly but sometimes she judders a bit when reverse is selected but otherwise a fine box. I think the bands may need adjusting.

Harvey has also been very helpful in helping me resolve some issues on my sprint.

I bought a 0-160 PSI pressure gauge, a length of tube with fittings and an extension tube for testing the pressure in the box, this allows the correct setting of the kick down cable.

Also use the correct gearbox oil M2C-33 G specification Type G ATF.

Malcolm

[ohutter]

Thanks very much for all the replies, sounds like the gearbox clunk isn't something I shouldn't be worrying about just yet then.

Recently got the coolant temperature sensor working, after much poking around with a multi meter, I realized that whoever fitted it put the wires on the wrong way around!

I had a tinker with a friend last night, and we still can't seem to get the rear seat base in....

[geeksteve]

I had a tinker with a friend last night

Oh my.

and we still can't seem to get the rear seat base in....

Put in back edge first (with front angled up). Push back, lower front and give it one decent shove. Should go in.

[Triumph1300]

Oliver,
May have asked this before, however, where are you based? Someone local may be able to assist

[MIG Wielder]

Hello!

I'd like to get her up to a good standard again, but don't have a lot of money to throw at her just yet so will move along leisurely.

A few questions:

Firstly, how on earth does the rear set base / squab fit in? I’ve tried pushing it every which way and it doesn’t seem to want to sit back into place.


Thanks very much,
Oliver

Hi Oliver, I usually manage it with the following method.
Fit the back of the cushion roughly in place first, then sit on it.Then with a soft wood buffer at the lower edge of the cushion hit the buffer with a wooden or rubber mallet. The base will spring in. It may be necessary to do this in sections of about 6 inches at a time working from left to right.
Interesting number plate btw. It looks like the old U.K. format and the car seems to be RHD, but the digits don't look right for the U.K.
Nice looking car in the best colour in my opinion.
HTH,
Tony.

[ohutter]

Oliver,
May have asked this before, however, where are you based? Someone local may be able to assist

Believe it or not, I used to be based near Coventry, and I think we've met. It was a long time ago now, but I remember stories of a Dolomite with an engine so big a guy from JLR had to move the bulkhead, and a story (possibly from you?) about a Morris Minor rear ending an armoured Defender and not leaving a scratch; the defender promptly gave the Morris a tow. Correct me if I'm wrong!

I'm now based near Liverpool. I don't think I'll need a hand just yet. I've got a replacement seatbelt coming over the next few days, and when I've fitted that I'll give the methods just mentioned a go.

Interesting number plate btw. It looks like the old U.K. format and the car seems to be RHD, but the digits don't look right for the U.K.
Nice looking car in the best colour in my opinion.
HTH,
Tony.

I have to confess, I've lied to you there. I always change the number plates on paint before I post them on the internet, a bit of a tin foil hat man...

It is a 6 digit plate though, which is definitely original, and if I understand correctly would have been personalised from new, it's the NNN LLN format for numbers and letters.


Thanks again to all for all the help!

I'll get a few more photos up at some point, to accompany the basket of issues I will inevitably discover...

[AlanH]

can be cured by lowering the idle speed if that's too high, or if not adjusting the kickdown cable.

I think that the adjustment you will need is to to slacken the cable slightly. Perhaps Harvey can correct me if I'm wrong.

Also check that the fluid level is correct, evidently the manual is wrong.

[Triumph1300]

You're right on both stories, we've met!

[ohutter]

I've got a quick question to ask.

My washer fluid jets don't work currently and reading around the forums it seems to be a common problem that is usually sorted by rebuilding the pump.

When I push the stalk, I can hear the motor making noise (high pitched whine). I've got fluid in the reservoir, and I've unblocked the old tubing but still nothing. The fluid isn't getting past the pump, so it seems safe to assume that even though it's making a noise, it is worn out. Would this do the job?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-LUCAS-TRI ... W9dbTYkg9w

Unless the pump is very easy to rebuild and sourcing parts is easy I'll just buy that and move the old 12V connectors from the old pump I assume.

Thanks again!

[markas]

The same company has the pump only which just needs attaching to the top of your existing washer bottle for £8 less!

[Magenta Auto Sprint]

I've got a quick question to ask.

My washer fluid jets don't work currently and reading around the forums it seems to be a common problem that is usually sorted by rebuilding the pump.

you can try cleaning out the small filter on the inside of the washer bottle, it sometimes gets a jelley type stuff on it or in the tube.
check the pump is wired up correctly.
clean out the nozzle holes with a pin
check that all the pipes are secured and the T junction is not broken etc

hope this helps

malcolm

[ohutter]

I've given that a try without any luck Malcolm, but thanks for the suggestion.

Markas, an excellent point, just bought the cheaper version.

As of last night, I now have functioning seat belts and indicators to boot!