The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 7:48 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:52 pm
Posts: 7566
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
This is how Autopal headlights compare to the original sealed beam units.
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Given the scarcity and cost of sealed beam units, the halogen conversion is the way to go and as other have already said, relays are a must. Being an 1850, I was able to situate my relays next to the battery and break into the loom to keep my wiring as short as possible.
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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 8:56 pm 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Flat or curved lens lights is really just an aesthetic decision. If you are building a concours contender then the curved lenses are mandatory to keep it looking original (REALLY serious concours types will pay through the nose for original spec sealed beam units)
But if you are more into driving than polishing (like me) then I see no problem with flat fronts. I could even be tempted into some "angel eyes" if they came up at the right money!

On another note, I'm pleased to meet another 120 enthusiast! I ran a LHD French export model 1964 122S Estate from 1982-2011 It shared so many of my life's seminal moments including bringing both my kids home from the hospital after they were born. I've regretted selling it since the day it went.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 7:44 am 
I agree with you, Steve. I'm driven towards driving and Hot Rodding.
I'm a "Paint it back, and put it back" guy.
I like the feel of an old car, and I want it to be up to scratch and modern traffic.

I like them to fast and reliable, and I most confess that my Volvo, is very much up to scratch and handling is good. I'm just a little bummed over the oil pressure.

And Despite I increased the Power from 82ish HP to 125ish HP, I've increased drivability and and reliability a lot. And Modern bearings, modern oil, modern seals, Better cam (they last longer then 60s quality), new 3 Row Radiator and electric fan real make it a good driver. And The Dellortos I run really opened up the power band on that puppy.
And a good honest 1HP per CUI makes it a good car to drive. So I doubt I will do much performance update to the Dolly , but I will do a lot of reliability issues.
I would love to take it to Schweitzerland and visit the previous owner, at some point.
And being my daughter is so much in to cars, I bet she will love it too.



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I know it's O/T, but I hope it passes.


Last edited by Brynk on Fri Feb 17, 2017 9:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 8:33 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2016 9:00 pm
Posts: 1014
Just a reminder that Rimmer have the inner and outer sealed beam units for £18 each inc vat RHD for those in the UK. Don't know what they look like.....


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 8:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
My Mazda being a Japanese market car came with sealed beams but 7 inch ones. I swapped those out to halogens, they are Autopal, very cheap. Actually I wasn't expecting them to be very good as I wasn't that impressed with the Indian quality but actually they have been proven to be much better than the sealed beams. I actually fitted ones with the sidelight built as they were easier to find it but I didn't fit bulbs. I think my conclusion that anything is better than sealed beams, though I miss the colour of the light.

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 3:53 pm 
I run Luminition on my Volvo, and really like it.
I run optitronic series. Is the magnetic series better?

Is it recommendable to have the Sprint alloys waterjetted/waterpolished/water-mediablasted?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 10:43 am 
Is someone taking the 5th?

Any fore or against Lumenition?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 2:00 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:13 am
Posts: 3173
Location: The continent
The luminition is one of the best contact point replacement kits available. I used to use the optronics with the seperate module. The difference i thought between the magnetronic and optronic is the lenght of the contact/dwell time. The magnetronic does switch the time the magnet is above the switch. So more revs less opening time. The optronic sensor determines only the start of the spark. The lenght of the opening time is determined by the module and not the actual time the sensor in the distributor is "open".

Both have about the same quality. Last week i replaced a magnetronic of a friends Vitesse what we did fit 18 years ago when he bought the car.
Used with the right coils and resistors when needed they last very long.

But for timing all depends on the condition of the mechanicals of the distributor where the kit is in. Worn centrifugals and leaky vacuums are not repaired or improved by a points replacement kit like the lumenition or others.

That's why i use only 123 the last few years, also in my Volvo. And when needed the fully programmable while driving on LPG to suit the curve to the engine for the best power and economy.

Jeroen

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 4:37 pm 
Why ain't there a thumbs up feature on every post.

Because there is some good info on here!

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:10 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm
Posts: 5429
Location: The Old Asylum
Can you get a 123 for a Sprint? It would be the answer. We sell CSI at work but I know they don't do an off the shelf one for Sprint but maybe they can build one inside your existing distributor. CSI are Dutch like 123, good quality and very programmable.

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Mark

1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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