Misfire Again

[ham204]

I know this sounds a bit drastic, but could you get hold of another set of carbs?

I had a similar problem on my 1850 and went through all of the things that you have.

In the end I took the carbs off of my Herald and tried those. Things improved straight away.

I ended up swapping them back one by one and found the offending unit.

Edit :-

Try the drop test on your carb. pistons.

Unfortunately yes, it is too drastic as I do not have an extra pair of SU6's at hand. But they have been balanced carefully and as explained above, had some key elements changed, with absolutely no improvement.

[soe8m]

6%

Again what rotor do you use?

Jeroen.

[Jon Tilson]

Sorry but no....one wire from the fuse box.
I was just concerned you identify the correct terminal at the fuse box. It will be one of the white wires.

Brown ones are permanent battery live and the white fed from the ignition switch. On the fused side its mostly green wires with various
tracers for the ignition fed stuff and purple for the permanent, like interior lights, horn, hazards and cigar lighter etc.

If a fuse blows you dont want to loose your ignition.

Jonners

[ham204]

So I rewired the coil as best I could understand from previous posts. The car started immediately and the hesitation has diminished A LOT!

For the moment and as a temporary measure, I took a connection from the fused side, as I could not see any connection in the fuse box that is not fused. Will check for that later.

Now that the white/pink wife is disconnected from the coil, the wiring has lost its ballast resistor. Everything seems to be fine except that the coil is a bit too warm (but not hot) to the touch.

I just have to find an unfused ignition feed.......

[GTS290N]

Two fuses.
Each fuse has a live side. The other side is 'fused' - i.e. if the fuse blows, there is no power.
One of the wires to to one of the fuses is live always.
The other is live only when ignition on.
So you want to take the feed to your electronics from the non-fused side of the ignition only fuse. Think of it this way - if you physically remove the fuse then one side still has power. The other side is 'fused'.
I hope this makes sense....

[Mahesh]

Now that the white/pink wife is disconnected from the coil, the wiring has lost its ballast resistor. Everything seems to be fine except that the coil is a bit too warm (but not hot) to the touch.


When I put my MS3/4 coil in, I did not lose any connections to the coil, the black lead from the lumenition took the place of condenser, the red to the fuse box, and as my system is ballasted no external resistor was used.

I'm only curious as the coil being used needs the car ballast or the supplied ballast resistor.

[ham204]

Two fuses.
Each fuse has a live side. The other side is 'fused' - i.e. if the fuse blows, there is no power.
One of the wires to to one of the fuses is live always.
The other is live only when ignition on.
So you want to take the feed to your electronics from the non-fused side of the ignition only fuse. Think of it this way - if you physically remove the fuse then one side still has power. The other side is 'fused'.
I hope this makes sense....

Yes it does indeed!! Thank you - it was a lightbulb moment as I read your post.....

[ham204]

Now that the white/pink wife is disconnected from the coil, the wiring has lost its ballast resistor. Everything seems to be fine except that the coil is a bit too warm (but not hot) to the touch.


When I put my MS3/4 coil in, I did not lose any connections to the coil, the black lead from the lumenition took the place of condenser, the red to the fuse box, and as my system is ballasted no external resistor was used.

I'm only curious as the coil being used needs the car ballast or the supplied ballast resistor.

Hi Mahesh - you are right, the MS3 does come with the ballast resistor but the concensus seems to be to ditch it and bypass the car's ballast wire. All I can say at the moment it that it transformed the car's ability to rev up smoothly and not with a very noticeable stumble as it was before. Also, I tried to fit the provided ballast resistor inline to the coil + terminal but the car would not start at all.

I do not understand your phrase 'the red to the fusebox' - so you bypassed the coil and fitted the red wire from the ignition module straight to the fuse box?

[soe8m]

You need to connect the white pink ballasted wire or use the original what was supplied. You will damage your ignition within a few miles and can throw it away.

Jeroen.

[ham204]

You need to connect the white pink ballasted wire or use the original what was supplied. You will damage your ignition within a few miles and can throw it away.

Jeroen.

So the white/pink wire remains connected, even though I now have the wire from the fusebox to the coil's + terminal?

[soe8m]

No you take off the wire from the fuse box. The coil feed is the pink white. There must also be somewhere a white yellow what goes on coil + together with the white pink. On coil - you have your electronic ignition black I think and white slate. That is your rev counter.

You can use your fuse box wire but then the supplied resistor has to be connected in between the fuse box and coil. The white pink stays disconnected then.

You must use a resistor, the original OR the one supplied.

Jeroen

[AlanH]

I know I'm a bit thick but I seem to have got confused, perhaps there is too much information.

As I see it, you have a later car so wiring should be as follows.

Coil :-
Take off the ballast resistor and wire it up exactly the same as the old one.

Ignition unit:-
Black wire to -ve coil terminal.
Red wire to ignition terminal in fuse box (before the fuse).

Surely that's it.

[ham204]

You can use your fuse box wire but then the supplied resistor has to be connected in between the fuse box and coil. The white pink stays disconnected then.

Jeroen

Like this then?

[soe8m]

You can use your fuse box wire but then the supplied resistor has to be connected in between the fuse box and coil. The white pink stays disconnected then.

Jeroen

Like this then?

Yes. And connect the white yellow direct to coil positive also. That is your start bypass.

Jeroen

[Mahesh]

It is a case of too much information, all correct but from different angles,
I had the same problem,

One simple thing, the MS3 coil you have needs a ballast, full stop !
Easier to use the one built into the car for now.

If you want to ditch the ballast, then you need a different coil.

I put everything back as if starting from scratch,

1. removed the points and condenser,
2. and put the magnetronic unit in
3. the red lead from the magnetronic went to the ign switched + in the fuse box,
4. the black lead from the magnetronic to the VE- on the coil.
5. no changes were made when the coil was changed.

Make sure the red lead goes to the ign switched connection and not the permanent one,
these modules do not like continuous power without firing the coil, they fry, also they do not
like old points coils either, dont experiment, do once, do right, and you should be ok.