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 Post subject: Sprint rear axle failing
PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 6:11 pm 
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I've got a problem with the axle on the Sprint: the right hand tube that contains the half shaft is comming away from the diff housing. I haven't been able to see it my self, I dropped the car off this AM and picked it up this evening. The engineer says he doesn't think it's something that can be welded. It don't appear to be losing fluid. Any advice?

Graham.

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 8:05 pm 
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Tubes are normally pressed into the housing when new. If its a random event thats made yours loose, I would either replace the axle complete or weld the tube in situ. It wont need a lot of weld, just a few places to hold it. Years ago I worked on electric (milk floats) vehicles and we had an electric that replaced a 3 ton box lorry. It had so much torque that in the hills of the town it was working in,it span the diff housing around the tubes. (diffs travel upwards when allowed due to the crownwheel riding up the pinion gear). Ripped the prop to bits lol.
As long as the garage is not seeing half shaft play rather than the tube itself, it will need either the weld or replace.

Tony

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 1:31 pm 
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ERR the diff housing is cast iron and the axle tube is steel, it can be brazed but I believe welding would not work. I would clean it all up and use Loctite high strength retainer to keep it in place.
However I might be wrong.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 4:13 pm 
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Carledo had a diffless axle a while ago...


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 7:08 pm 
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Quote:
Carledo had a diffless axle a while ago...
How'd that work, or is that a stupid question?

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 7:11 pm 
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ERR the diff housing is cast iron and the axle tube is steel, it can be brazed but I believe welding would not work. I would clean it all up and use Loctite high strength retainer to keep it in place.
However I might be wrong.
The guy who looked at it and the guy that does the welding are different guys. I hope to speak to the latter tomorrow and see what he says. He's a Ford Escort (mk1) fan mostly, but allowances can be made.

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 7:35 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Carledo had a diffless axle a while ago...
How'd that work, or is that a stupid question?
You'd transfer your diff and half shafts into his empty case/tubes assembly; problem solved, If of course he still has it/still wants to sell it


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:35 pm 
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Sorry but I now have a useable diff in a knackered case (rotten "ears") so I'm gonna go with some new bearings and build one from 2 as a spare, the Carledo's diff is a tad whiny!

Steve

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'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 9:46 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Carledo had a diffless axle a while ago...
How'd that work, or is that a stupid question?
You'd transfer your diff and half shafts into his empty case/tubes assembly; problem solved, If of course he still has it/still wants to sell it
Ah, it was a stupid question then.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 1:32 am 
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Quote:
Quote:
ERR the diff housing is cast iron and the axle tube is steel, it can be brazed but I believe welding would not work. I would clean it all up and use Loctite high strength retainer to keep it in place.
However I might be wrong.
The guy who looked at it and the guy that does the welding are different guys. I hope to speak to the latter tomorrow and see what he says. He's a Ford Escort (mk1) fan mostly, but allowances can be made.

Graham
I know this is an old thread, but this question has just arisen for me as well... Did we ever get a verdict on whether the Axle tubes can be welded/brazed to the Diff housing?
Best regards
PeteB

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 11:02 am 
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I found a welder to do it, and it's lasted at least till now at least.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 4:06 pm 
I'd be very surprised if the diff housing is cast iron, more likely cast steel like Jags, cast iron doesn't like shock loadings.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 4:41 pm 
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I didn't think about the use of the term iron before, but true cast iron would, as said, be a fairly crap choice as an alloy for a diff housing.

As I understand it there was no problem welding the two together at all. And apart from the year or so the car was off the road after the front-end ding, it's lasted since late 2017 running daily over the roads round here that are well holely - apt for St Anne's perhaps.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 6:55 pm 
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Is it worth fitting something like a Escort axle brace.
Bit over the top I know.
But belt and braces and all that.

https://www.motorsport-tools.com/atlas- ... nrdavg1nv2

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2009 Mini Clubman Cooper S Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Back in my possession 22 September 2019.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
352 @ 28/11/2022
455Hrs @ 20/10/2023
480Hrs @ 14/03/2024
This is time taken at the Sprint not necessary time worked.

Working on a ratio of just 7Hrs a day not including driving to the Sprint.
That equals to 68 days that doesn’t include weekends.
Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now back on.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2021 7:24 pm 
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Image

From the FIA recognition form for the Sprint

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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