The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 6:38 pm 
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Can anybody tell me the torquing sequence and figures for a dolly 1850/(TR7) head please? Guessing it is different to a "normal" head with vertical studs (ie spiral out from the middle)
And the re-torquing procedure?

TIA
Clive

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 Post subject: Yes,....
PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 9:52 am 
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Some years ago I wrote an article on this in the Members' Section,
but alas I cannot find it now.

Anyhow, I use the BL method as per the workshop manual
which is to start with the middle stud then work outwards before moving onto the head bolts,
again starting in the middle and working out.
This should be done in stages.
The final figure is 55lbf.ft.

The threads should be lightly oiled and the head retightened after the engine has been run to operating temp
and then allowed to fully cool (overnight?).
After 500 miles the head should be retightened again.


Ian.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 10:30 am 
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Thank you
Thought it would be in "rows" but best to check. Need to order some studs etc, and get it bolted back together and get some miles on it.

A friend had a stag head gasket done by a garage. They insisted the car was left there overnight prior to re-torquing if they were to guarantee the job. So that makes sense.
Luckily the gasket I have is a genuine BL one, so that should be one less thing to worry about!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 12:16 pm 
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Quote:
Can anybody tell me the torquing sequence and figures for a dolly 1850/(TR7) head please? Guessing it is different to a "normal" head with vertical studs (ie spiral out from the middle)
And the re-torquing procedure?

TIA
Clive
Taken from BL 1850 service manual
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 1:55 pm 
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So the later advice was the "spiral" method. So which is best??
stags seem to use the studs-first method...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 3:20 pm 
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Both methods are/have been sworn by various experts, though I use the spiral method incrementally at 35, 45 and 55 ftlbs; I use a similar spiral technique on the Sprint rocker cover and find it pulls it down better.

On a '7 or 1850 I would wipe the stud shafts with copper slip for ease of future dismantling..


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 4:42 pm 
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So either method is OK.
Yes, will use anti seize on the studs. But fingers crossed they will never need to come out again (I probably should not have said that)

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 12:46 pm 
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Alun, is copper grease suitable for the temperatures that the studs would be subject to? I'm sure I read somewhere that somebody used copper grease on head studs and come head removal time, the stuff had turned to concrete. It was due to whatever else was in the grease besides the copper content.

Please tell me that I'm wrong.

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Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:00 pm 
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Copper grease is good for 1000 degrees C so find for most applications. What happens is the carrier product evaporates and then you're left with the copper which is the anti seize.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:28 pm 
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David, you are wrong; there is no OPC in copper grease so it cannot turn into concrete.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:46 pm 
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Quote:
David, you are wrong; there is no OPC in copper grease so it cannot turn into concrete.
:lol: :lol:

I have seen copperslip go "hard" ad dry out a bit. Not been an issue, and certainly better than bare metal on metal.
I am happy to use it on the studs.

I wonder how long Robsport will take to deliver all my bits and bobs to complete the job?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 3:44 pm 
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I had two deliveries from Robsport last week, both ordered by 'phone arrived the following day including one ordered at 4:30 pm!

MEV spares took a further day to get an internet order to me.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2018 9:30 pm 
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I was lucky wit this gasket, it is a genuine Leyland, complete with the "twisted A$$hole" symbol stamped into it.

No experience of any others, but I like Robsport so they may be worth asking what they supply and how good it is.

My Robsport order arrived today, 27 hours after ordering. As did some shims :D

Saturday is rebuild day....

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2018 12:22 pm 
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Afraid I can't help, but I think I know the stall.
some of them advertise in the classic press. Uually nos clutches and brakes etc are the headline items.
I have a visitor tomorrow who may have some clues.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2018 1:45 pm 
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Alwyn Lewis? Shortish bloke with dark straight hair, thick glasses and a northern accent?


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