Hi Guys, I have just completed the refurbishment of my front suspension, including lower springs (1"). Covid-19 has made a mess of my timetable and what should have been a couple of weekends' work turned into a 6 month marathon, mostly waiting for parts to be supplied from the UK. Anyway, I'm glad that I have finally finished and am happy with the results, except.......I am sure that one side (driver) now has more negative camber than the other!
To start with, the passenger side had 2 shims between the subframe and bracket while the driver's side had none! I resolved to leave the same arrangement as the wheels looked ok before the refurbishment. Now, the negative camber on the driver side is very evident while the passenger side looks ok ( I haven't measured yet).
How can I correct this camber to be in line with manual's specs - minus 1/4 +/- 1 degree?
Btw car drives straight with no pulling to either side
Front Wheel Camber Adjustment
Front Wheel Camber Adjustment
1972 Spitfire MK IV
1972 Stag
1980 Sprint
1962 Land Rover Series 2a
1961 Land Rover Series 2a (under restoration)
1983 Land Rover Series 3
1995 Suzuki Samurai SJ413
1972 MGB GT (banished for being too tight to fit in it)
1972 Stag
1980 Sprint
1962 Land Rover Series 2a
1961 Land Rover Series 2a (under restoration)
1983 Land Rover Series 3
1995 Suzuki Samurai SJ413
1972 MGB GT (banished for being too tight to fit in it)
Re: Front Wheel Camber Adjustment
Hi,
When I worked at a garage many years ago we had a fancy looking sprit level with a calibrated dial.
You would put the car on flat turn plates and make sure the car was level.
You could also fit another gauge for KPI and Caster. But when just checking camber you just held the tool
on the tyre vertical avoiding the tyre bulge and and level a bubble and take a reading. ( add or remove shims)
I have used a sprit level just to see how close they are to RH and LH.
Today I guess it would be far more precise. good luck.
When I worked at a garage many years ago we had a fancy looking sprit level with a calibrated dial.
You would put the car on flat turn plates and make sure the car was level.
You could also fit another gauge for KPI and Caster. But when just checking camber you just held the tool
on the tyre vertical avoiding the tyre bulge and and level a bubble and take a reading. ( add or remove shims)
I have used a sprit level just to see how close they are to RH and LH.
Today I guess it would be far more precise. good luck.