1850 Autobox removal
- yorkshire_spam
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1850 Autobox removal
I need to take the automatic gearbox out of the Dolomite, workshop manual suggests from underneath but involves a huge amount of stuff.
Do I really need to drop the back of the subframe to get clearance? Its starting to sound like pulling the engine and box together from the top might be less work?!
Cheers, Sam
Do I really need to drop the back of the subframe to get clearance? Its starting to sound like pulling the engine and box together from the top might be less work?!
Cheers, Sam
Re: 1850 Autobox removal
Back in my days at the Main Stealer we used to remove the engine and box as a unit, then split them on the floor. I never liked doing them that way, because it always seemed to make it a much bigger job in my mind than just dropping the box out on its own. But I had heard of the problems of removing the box on its own from underneath (whether real or imaginary) and that, added to the fact that I didn't want the hassle if I didn't follow the perceived wisdom, meant that the lump always came out.
Currently over 35 years worth of fixing 35 boxes.
Hoping to reach 65 years worth of fixing 65 boxes.
Hoping to reach 65 years worth of fixing 65 boxes.
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Re: 1850 Autobox removal
Thanks Harvey, I'll ponder the options.harvey wrote: ↑Sat Oct 09, 2021 11:23 am Back in my days at the Main Stealer we used to remove the engine and box as a unit, then split them on the floor. I never liked doing them that way, because it always seemed to make it a much bigger job in my mind than just dropping the box out on its own. But I had heard of the problems of removing the box on its own from underneath (whether real or imaginary) and that, added to the fact that I didn't want the hassle if I didn't follow the perceived wisdom, meant that the lump always came out.
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Re: 1850 Autobox removal
You can drop the box out - but yes you need to lower the frame.
I hate trying to mate engines, torque converters and gearboxes in the car. Paranoia about not getting the converter fully engaged in the oil pump or stressing the flex plate..... My preference is to remove them as a pair, then split them on the floor where I can see what I'm doing.
Why do you need to remove the box? It's surprising how much you can do with the box in-situ.
I hate trying to mate engines, torque converters and gearboxes in the car. Paranoia about not getting the converter fully engaged in the oil pump or stressing the flex plate..... My preference is to remove them as a pair, then split them on the floor where I can see what I'm doing.
Why do you need to remove the box? It's surprising how much you can do with the box in-situ.
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Re: 1850 Autobox removal
Box has a few issues, I'm trying to decide if doing them in situ or pulling the box is the best bet.matt of the vivas wrote: ↑Sat Oct 09, 2021 9:34 pm Why do you need to remove the box? It's surprising how much you can do with the box in-situ.
1) Snapped sump bolt - needs extracting and might need a helicoil
2) Leaking seal(s) - it's p155ing ATF all over the body and right (off) side of the box and bodywork
I'm starting to think risking "in situ" might be less work.
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Re: 1850 Autobox removal
The auto box on my sprint had issues. No reverse, wouldn't change up etc.
I was I was able to remove the extension housing to replace the governor, remove, clean and replace the valve chest and the off side servo with the box in place.
Then the main oil pump seal behind the TC gave out, so I had to remove it and I took the engine and box out the top.
As has been mentioned previously, very difficult to line up a box from underneath, even with a gearbox scissor lift that is available. Much easier out of the car with two people; one to line it up and the other to put a few bolts in.
Thanks again to Harvey who provided expert advice at the time I was trouble shooting my problems.
Malcolm
I was I was able to remove the extension housing to replace the governor, remove, clean and replace the valve chest and the off side servo with the box in place.
Then the main oil pump seal behind the TC gave out, so I had to remove it and I took the engine and box out the top.
As has been mentioned previously, very difficult to line up a box from underneath, even with a gearbox scissor lift that is available. Much easier out of the car with two people; one to line it up and the other to put a few bolts in.
Thanks again to Harvey who provided expert advice at the time I was trouble shooting my problems.
Malcolm
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Re: 1850 Autobox removal
Bollox to it, I'm going to pull the engine and box from the top and then split them. That way I can replace whatever seals I want.
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Re: 1850 Autobox removal
It's surely belt and braces easier and safer to pull the lot and split it on the floor.
However you do it though, PLEASE make sure you remove the bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flexplate before trying to split the box away from the engine. The convertor should stay in the bellhousing, expensive damage can result from doing this wrong.
Steve
However you do it though, PLEASE make sure you remove the bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flexplate before trying to split the box away from the engine. The convertor should stay in the bellhousing, expensive damage can result from doing this wrong.
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
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Re: 1850 Autobox removal
That's a good shout Steve for those of us more used to dealing with a simple clutch on a manual - timely reminder, thanks!Carledo wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 11:16 pm It's surely belt and braces easier and safer to pull the lot and split it on the floor.
However you do it though, PLEASE make sure you remove the bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flexplate before trying to split the box away from the engine. The convertor should stay in the bellhousing, expensive damage can result from doing this wrong.
Steve
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Re: 1850 Autobox removal
Engine and box out and on the floor safe and sound. I'll probably split the 2 at the weekend and start sorting the issues out.