Solid steering mounts

[RichardHyde]

Hi all,

Does using solid steering mounts and a 2500 style UJ cause a lot of stress on the other steering UJ ?

https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=145377RM

Thanks, Richard

[Carledo]

Not that i've noticed and i've been running both for more than 10 years.

Steve

[RichardHyde]

What made me think of this is….

The subframe and steering rack will effectively be one solid part.
The steering column is fixed by the height adjustment clamp.

As the body and subframe move about (assuming you’ve got rubber subframe bushes) what steering components absorbs that movement ?

[Carledo]

If the body and subframe are moving relative to each other that much, you've got a bigger problem than what happens to the upper column UJ!

The Carledo's subframe is still rubber mounted, it's not a problem, there is enough give elsewhere in the system. Obviously if the frame rubbers are knackered or the frame is rusty or cup washers disintegrated (all of which i've seen happen) then it will show in the steering. But trust me, you'll know anyway!

Steve

[xvivalve]

You'll likely have to shorten the upper UJ to get the alternative lower to fit.

Also, some can catch on the bodywork flange adjacent which then needs easing

[roger440]

What made me think of this is….

The subframe and steering rack will effectively be one solid part.
The steering column is fixed by the height adjustment clamp.

As the body and subframe move about (assuming you’ve got rubber subframe bushes) what steering components absorbs that movement ?

Given what you are building, and the power you will have, it may well be a problem.

Why cant you keep the original arrangement? Which i suspect is there for that reason.

[Carledo]

What made me think of this is….

The subframe and steering rack will effectively be one solid part.
The steering column is fixed by the height adjustment clamp.

As the body and subframe move about (assuming you’ve got rubber subframe bushes) what steering components absorbs that movement ?

Given what you are building, and the power you will have, it may well be a problem.

Why cant you keep the original arrangement? Which i suspect is there for that reason.

The original sloppy rubber rack mounts are a source of poor steering response and vague steering. So for any sort of performance application, the solid rack mounts are a big improvement for not much money.

The lower column coupling, i'd be happy to leave alone, if it wasn't for the fact that NOS genuine ones are NLA and modern repro copies are (and there's no nice way of saying this) absolute crap. All the major Triumph suppliers list one (FAM1718?) but I suspect only one company makes them and they are total rubbish. I fitted one from a trusted supplier (not Rimmers) and it failed in less than 6 months and under 400 miles.

And it's not just the one, I've had to change out more than a dozen which still have "the new on them" Others have had similar experiences. The situation got so bad that Fitchetts (who are renowned for ONLY selling original spec stuff) have now stopped selling aftermarket versions of the FAM 1718 and instead only sell the pressed "Escort group 1" UJ fitting.

Personally I prefer the T2000 forged upper UJ as sold by Chris Witor to replace the FAM 1718 but that's just me. And since I've fitted several cars now with both solid rack mounts and a UJ (including the Carledo which has been like this 10 years and many thousands of hard miles) I can unequivocally state that it works well, there's no downside at all!

Steve