On my newly acquired 1500TC 1974; I'm looking to try to turn the engine over by hand before I try to start it after being sitting for so many years, however when I went to attempt this I discovered the Crankshaft nut is far larger than expected and I haven't got a socket large enough
The manual states its 1"x16 T.P.I size? This has totally confused me as I don't recognise this measurement or size!
Does anybody know what size socket I need for this nut please?
On a separate note what is the best method of removing the nut without an impact wrench? I've seen a post about using the starter motor and a bar against the chassis to free the nut, has anyone done this and any recommendations of how to attempt this?
The socket is 1.13/16" which, IIRC is something like 43mm.
Not as hard to find/borrow as you might expect since it also fits Metro balljoints, your local classic friendly garage will probably have one!
And yes, it's reasonably simple to fit a socket to a long knuckle bar, rest said bar against the subframe and hit the starter switch. I've been releasing crank dog nuts by this method for over 50 years, not just on Triumphs, but everything else as well.
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
I've got one that I cut down to fit on the end of a gun for a scrap engine whilst still in chassis. Works either way though with 3/4 to 1/2" adapter. As I don't have the car anymore, I'm happy to post it to you.
Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Nov 18, 2021 7:34 pm
And yes, it's reasonably simple to fit a socket to a long knuckle bar, rest said bar against the subframe and hit the starter switch. I've been releasing crank dog nuts by this method for over 50 years, not just on Triumphs, but everything else as well.
Same here.
Although not everything you haven't....
You won't have done it on a (or possibly a lot of) Honda(s).......
Care to take a guess as to why?
Currently over 35 years worth of fixing 35 boxes.
Hoping to reach 65 years worth of fixing 65 boxes.
Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Nov 18, 2021 7:34 pm
And yes, it's reasonably simple to fit a socket to a long knuckle bar, rest said bar against the subframe and hit the starter switch. I've been releasing crank dog nuts by this method for over 50 years, not just on Triumphs, but everything else as well.
Same here.
Although not everything you haven't....
You won't have done it on a (or possibly a lot of) Honda(s).......
Care to take a guess as to why?
Because the Honda crank (or at least, some of them) turns anticlockwise! Because of this the dognut does itself up even tighter in service. Quite often, even an industrial grade 1" drive airgun fails to loosen Honda dog nuts. My normal method involves removing the starter, locking the crank with a crowbar in the ring gear teeth and then loosening the dognut with a socket, long extension resting on an axle stand, turned by a 6ft long commercial torque wrench! Which I often end up literally swinging from!
I've also come unstuck once doing it like that on a newish Fiesta with no keyway on the crank pulley! A lot of moderns have this REALLY USELESS design now. Honestly, to save a few pence on machining costs and a Woodruff key!
But it's no bother on a PROPER car!
I WAS going to add these caveats on the initial post, but thought no-one would be interested in Hondas or other modern stuff!
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Carledo wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 3:37 pm
Because the Honda crank (or at least, some of them) turns anticlockwise! Because of this the dognut does itself up even tighter in service. Quite often, even an industrial grade 1" drive airgun fails to loosen Honda dog nuts. My normal method involves removing the starter, locking the crank with a crowbar in the ring gear teeth and then loosening the dognut with a socket, long extension resting on an axle stand, turned by a 6ft long commercial torque wrench! Which I often end up literally swinging from!
I didn't think that I would catch you out with that one. I've been there doing all the above.
Carledo wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 3:37 pm
I've also come unstuck once doing it like that on a newish Fiesta with no keyway on the crank pulley! A lot of moderns have this REALLY USELESS design now. Honestly, to save a few pence on machining costs and a Woodruff key!
Which is why I don't do moderns.
Carledo wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 3:37 pm
I WAS going to add these caveats on the initial post, but thought no-one would be interested in Hondas or other modern stuff!
There's always one.......
Currently over 35 years worth of fixing 35 boxes.
Hoping to reach 65 years worth of fixing 65 boxes.
