Can anyone tell me what the difference is between Sprint and TR7 pistons is. I know both arw
2.0L but sprint ones are over double the price of the TR7 ones?
Sprint / TR7 Pistons
- xvivalve
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Re: Sprint / TR7 Pistons
TR7 pistons have a recess in their crown and are lower compression. Sprint pistons have a flat crown that sit level with the deck of the block
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Re: Sprint / TR7 Pistons
TR7 pistons are dished so will lower compression. The dish is about 1mm/40 thou.
The valve cutouts are in a different place too.
I believe some places use TR7 pistons for sprint rebuilds, and with a std cam valves should not touch pistons.
If a head has been heavily skimmed, TR7 pistons will help to restore compression ratio. Conversely on an unskimmed head they will reduce the compression a little low.
I am building a sprint engine. The block was decked 30thou (damage to the face) and I have taken 30thou off a set of TR7 pistons. It is just the edge of the "dish" I have removed, they are now almost flat. The head has had a 10thou skim. Now I have managed to shim the valves to sensible clearances, I plan to assemble the engine without a head gasket, redrill the cam sprocket to correct the timing, then check that I have some clearance. Then fit the head gasket and finish the engine build. (ie about 3 months work at the current rate of progress)
The valve cutouts are in a different place too.
I believe some places use TR7 pistons for sprint rebuilds, and with a std cam valves should not touch pistons.
If a head has been heavily skimmed, TR7 pistons will help to restore compression ratio. Conversely on an unskimmed head they will reduce the compression a little low.
I am building a sprint engine. The block was decked 30thou (damage to the face) and I have taken 30thou off a set of TR7 pistons. It is just the edge of the "dish" I have removed, they are now almost flat. The head has had a 10thou skim. Now I have managed to shim the valves to sensible clearances, I plan to assemble the engine without a head gasket, redrill the cam sprocket to correct the timing, then check that I have some clearance. Then fit the head gasket and finish the engine build. (ie about 3 months work at the current rate of progress)
Clive Senior
Brighton
Brighton
Re: Sprint / TR7 Pistons
Cool thanks for that, I have a heavily skimmed head so the TR7 ones sound like the story.
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Re: Sprint / TR7 Pistons
Better set the timing with the headgasket. The distance between the sprockets will be different with or without the gasket and so the timing.cliftyhanger wrote: ↑Fri Apr 14, 2023 6:45 am TR7 pistons are dished so will lower compression. The dish is about 1mm/40 thou.
The valve cutouts are in a different place too.
I believe some places use TR7 pistons for sprint rebuilds, and with a std cam valves should not touch pistons.
If a head has been heavily skimmed, TR7 pistons will help to restore compression ratio. Conversely on an unskimmed head they will reduce the compression a little low.
I am building a sprint engine. The block was decked 30thou (damage to the face) and I have taken 30thou off a set of TR7 pistons. It is just the edge of the "dish" I have removed, they are now almost flat. The head has had a 10thou skim. Now I have managed to shim the valves to sensible clearances, I plan to assemble the engine without a head gasket, redrill the cam sprocket to correct the timing, then check that I have some clearance. Then fit the head gasket and finish the engine build. (ie about 3 months work at the current rate of progress)
Jeroen
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com
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Re: Sprint / TR7 Pistons
Good point, I will do.
I am wondering if I will need to open the angled head stud holes up a little too. I reckon that the holes will have moved about 0.5mm, so will check iusing the old head gasket.
Clive Senior
Brighton
Brighton
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Re: Sprint / TR7 Pistons
The early heads have smaller diameter holes than the later type. When both faces do mate, engine and head with a tryfit without the headgasket there's no need to enlarge the holes. When tightening, all studs first and then the bolts. Both from inside towards outside.cliftyhanger wrote:Good point, I will do.
I am wondering if I will need to open the angled head stud holes up a little too. I reckon that the holes will have moved about 0.5mm, so will check iusing the old head gasket.
Jeroen
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com