new to this wrote: ↑Sun Aug 13, 2023 8:35 pmIve got a capillary fan controller to wire, plus i want a manual over ride, having a bit of trouble working it out
What makes it a bit harder is the manual over ride, i want to use the choke switch and light, i think i can wire the relay but switch/control it via the earth, but how do i wire the capillary controller ?
Dave
I'm not quite sure that I get what you want the choke switch to do in this case. That's because I can't see why you'd want to turn the fan on when the choke is pulled.
But if that really is it, then the next question is whether the fan is to stay on with the ignition off, if the thermostatic switch is closed?
If the fan is to stay on until the thermostatic switch opens after the ignition is turned off, then something like this is what you would need:
The lower relay ensures that the fan eventually goes off if the choke is left pulled out after the ignition is turned off.
If the fan is to go straight off with the ignition off, then you only need the upper relay, with the coil powered off the ignition switched supply and earthed through both the thermostatic switch and the choke switch in parallel.
Graham
Thanks for diagram, I'm not using the choke as I'm going to be running EFI
new to this wrote: ↑Sun Aug 20, 2023 6:27 pm
I'm not using the choke as I'm going to be running EFI
Won't you have to do something to stop the (I assume) shortened cable just pulling right through? Also, I've had some frustrating issues with the choke light switch in the dolomite.
In which case, wouldn't there be a better, more traditional Lucas electrical switch from some other triumph that uses the same style lock-nut and so should look the part? The light switch from a 13/60 Herald might do, but the knob is an odd shape, and it's a multi-position pull switch. I know that there are a few round knob dash switches in the 1200 Herald that use that lock-nut. I think some of the TR's have them too.
I'd sand and polish the etching off and get one of them cobblers that sell plastic trophy's to draw a fan on it. I got one to redo the body number plates for a TR7 from a drawing of the font I wanted from a file. Don't remember the file format, but they'll tell you.
Graham
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
new to this wrote: ↑Sun Aug 20, 2023 6:27 pm
I'm not using the choke as I'm going to be running EFI
Won't you have to do something to stop the (I assume) shortened cable just pulling right through? Also, I've had some frustrating issues with the choke light switch in the dolomite.
In which case, wouldn't there be a better, more traditional Lucas electrical switch from some other triumph that uses the same style lock-nut and so should look the part? The light switch from a 13/60 Herald might do, but the knob is an odd shape, and it's a multi-position pull switch. I know that there are a few round knob dash switches in the 1200 Herald that use that lock-nut. I think some of the TR's have them too.
I'd sand and polish the etching off and get one of them cobblers that sell plastic trophy's to draw a fan on it. I got one to redo the body number plates for a TR7 from a drawing of the font I wanted from a file. Don't remember the file format, but they'll tell you.
Graham
Graham
Graham
I was going to use a cable nipple to stop the inner cable from pulling through, really looking for a choke switch with 2 wires going to it, its got to be small otherwise it wont fit in the original place, thats the hard bit finding the choke switch ? you can buy the new logos for the choke and fan Stag ones will fit
I use an ordinary 76> Dolomite HRW switch, I have quite a few. If you are using a relay for the fan, you can use the choke light power source and it'll run the choke light as a "fan on" warning (in case you can't hear the fan!)
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Carledo wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2023 10:07 pm
I use an ordinary 76> Dolomite HRW switch, I have quite a few. If you are using a relay for the fan, you can use the choke light power source and it'll run the choke light as a "fan on" warning (in case you can't hear the fan!)
Steve
Steve
Thats what i was hoping to do, with the warning light, all being well and i dont mess any thing up
Carledo wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2023 10:07 pm
I use an ordinary 76> Dolomite HRW switch, I have quite a few. If you are using a relay for the fan, you can use the choke light power source and it'll run the choke light as a "fan on" warning (in case you can't hear the fan!)
Steve
Ah, if those ones Graham Gibson has listed at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385204117721 really are Dolomite ones (I didn't know for sure as my Sprint has a different one under the dash), then maybe you or Alun are the go-to guys?
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Carledo wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2023 10:07 pm
I use an ordinary 76> Dolomite HRW switch, I have quite a few. If you are using a relay for the fan, you can use the choke light power source and it'll run the choke light as a "fan on" warning (in case you can't hear the fan!)
Steve
Ah, if those ones Graham Gibson has listed at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385204117721 really are Dolomite ones (I didn't know for sure as my Sprint has a different one under the dash), then maybe you or Alun are the go-to guys?
Graham
The switches in that Ad are 76> Dolomite ones, just to confirm. The earlier switch, as you say fits under the dash next to the choke and is self illuminating (if you're lucky!) It's also a lot rarer!
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Carledo wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2023 10:07 pm
I use an ordinary 76> Dolomite HRW switch, I have quite a few. If you are using a relay for the fan, you can use the choke light power source and it'll run the choke light as a "fan on" warning (in case you can't hear the fan!)
Steve
Ah, if those ones Graham Gibson has listed at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385204117721 really are Dolomite ones (I didn't know for sure as my Sprint has a different one under the dash), then maybe you or Alun are the go-to guys?
Graham
£8.50 including postage for such a switch from me...excepting one from me would be neither dirty or rusty like those advertised!
Carledo wrote: ↑Wed Aug 23, 2023 3:46 pm
The earlier switch, as you say fits under the dash next to the choke and is self illuminating (if you're lucky!) It's also a lot rarer!
Steve
There are still some NOS ones of the early Sprint rear windscreen heater switches available for £23.99. PM me for details.
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
