Ok, my new 1850HL Auto (I've gone from never having had a Dolomite to buying two since August!) arrived this evening courtesy of very very cheap and friendly recovery service (will post details seperately).
She was bought as a spares car but upon inspection she is far too good for that, so will be going for an MOT next week. The only 3 things I can see that are possible failure points are:
1) A small (1" x 1") hole where the n/s inner wheel arch meets the boot floor (you can just see the corner of the fule tank). Will this be a MOT failure point?
2) A very very small hole about a third of the way up the inner edge of the front door apeture/windscreen frame (A post). It doesn't look rotten, it more like the seam has seperated. Will this be an MOT failure point?
3) The n/s indicators (front and back) are constantly on in an unflashing stylee. Obviously an MOT failure but any experience of this anyone? Could it be switch/flasher unit related or is it, as I dread, more likely bad electrics?
Jake
Couple of potential MOT failure points - advice please!
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Dollyboy
1 - not certain it'll be a fail but you want to patch it properly with metal and paint it inside and out. probably need to remove tank unfortunately, but if a jobs worth doing etc...
2 - as above (apart from the tank, and painting the 'inside', which would prove to be a bit tricky
)
3 - give the flasher a flick, it may spring into life, if not a new flasher unit for a few £ will probably cure it, apparently the club do an electronic one, no personal experience of it, but worth considering i reckon. do the hazards work ok? if yes, most likely the flasher.
electrics dont sound 'bad' to me
2 - as above (apart from the tank, and painting the 'inside', which would prove to be a bit tricky
)3 - give the flasher a flick, it may spring into life, if not a new flasher unit for a few £ will probably cure it, apparently the club do an electronic one, no personal experience of it, but worth considering i reckon. do the hazards work ok? if yes, most likely the flasher.
electrics dont sound 'bad' to me
Last edited by Dollyboy on Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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SprintMWU773V
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In answer to point 3 is quite likely to be the flasher unit up behind the dash. Take it out, replace with the club spec one which requires a separate earth (use something under the dash as I did), will probably work then.
As for the bit on the wheelarch my 1500 is in a similar predicament, given the small cost of welding it up properly I'll probably get it done or do it myself making sure I REMOVE THE FUEL TANK FIRST!
As for the bit on the wheelarch my 1500 is in a similar predicament, given the small cost of welding it up properly I'll probably get it done or do it myself making sure I REMOVE THE FUEL TANK FIRST!
Mark
1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30
1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30
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Lewis
Re: Couple of potential MOT failure points - advice please!
Take the bulbs out, put them back in, and on the rear ones remove the holders and clean all the contacts and put 'em back in (or just wiggle them about).aureol40012 wrote: 3) The n/s indicators (front and back) are constantly on in an unflashing stylee. Obviously an MOT failure but any experience of this anyone? Could it be switch/flasher unit related or is it, as I dread, more likely bad electrics?
Jake
Probably fix it.
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SprintMWU773V
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triple tango
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Jon Tilson
- Saving up to join the Club!
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Flashers...
Do the hazards all work? If so its just the indicator flasher unit. Alos test with engine running...if voltage isnt high the flash rate goes down.
The rear arch repair is best done with fiberglass mat or patch aluminium tape and decent filler. You wont need to take tank out, it will be cheap and if well done will be undetectable. I'm not advcating a bodge before everyine jumps on me. This isnt structural, it means you dont have to take out the tank and can get a ticket and appraise car fully before doing it properly. It also keeps crud out of the boot well and stops the tank bottom getting damp and rusty.
I'd also do the same with the screen pillar provided its not to bad.
Jonners
The rear arch repair is best done with fiberglass mat or patch aluminium tape and decent filler. You wont need to take tank out, it will be cheap and if well done will be undetectable. I'm not advcating a bodge before everyine jumps on me. This isnt structural, it means you dont have to take out the tank and can get a ticket and appraise car fully before doing it properly. It also keeps crud out of the boot well and stops the tank bottom getting damp and rusty.
I'd also do the same with the screen pillar provided its not to bad.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.