The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Well my hopes of a quick fix just changing the rotor arm where just that hopes. Now doesn't even attempt to fire. My local motorworld seems to have the ignition bits, I got the rotor arm from the for 99p. So tomorrow I will be back their asking for new points and a condensor. I will replace all the HT leads two of the spark plugs ends are rusted. I will probably change the plugs and the coil for good measure. Hopefully it will then be willing to fire.

Stay well clear of 'Intermotor' ignition parts and anything in an unbranded box.

Motor world where I got the rotor arm from are stockists of CI parts.

Thats Comercial Ignition england. Anyone used their parts before? The rotor was £1.99 so not terrible and with my trade card only 99p

When we had our MOT station, we used to stock CI components. They used to have a big board in our workshop which had all the popular points, condensers, and rotors stocked. Their rep used to call once a week and top us up.
Never ever had a single problem with any of their items. We had to buy stuff in once from a local factor which was a different brand, fitted it and the car broke down within 5 miles. Annoying and embarrasing for us.

C.I. are quite a well known brand, I have used their stuff in the past, I try to use origianl Lucas, the orange boxes not the green boxes which were later foreign made parts.

Got new bits.

NGK plugs fitted
New condensor and points arrive tomorrow.

hopefully it will then start.

Points where burned and pitted so that may be the problem and the spark plugs where covered in a thick brown deposit so also need replacing.

Oh and heres a laugh the intermotor ignition parts book lists a dolomite 1300 as a 5 cylinder

Pauldaf44 wrote: Oh and heres a laugh the intermotor ignition parts book lists a dolomite 1300 as a 5 cylinder

Well, Sheila's got 8......

Spunkymonkey wrote:

Pauldaf44 wrote: Oh and heres a laugh the intermotor ignition parts book lists a dolomite 1300 as a 5 cylinder

Well, Sheila's got 8......

come again since when did you graft a V8 into her

4 in the engine, one in each back brake, and two masters = 8 cylinders (you didn't say where they had to be )

And the clutch slave makes nine!

I once had an Austin Vastmonster (3 litre IL6) with 16 valves..... 12 in the cylinder head, 4 in the radio.

JPB wrote:And the clutch slave makes nine!

Damn, no wonder she's going so well now

Im starting to run out of ideas now.

I have changed

spark plugs
HT Leads
Rotor Arm
Points
dizzy Cap.
There where faults with each and every one

I have regapped the points and plugs 3 times now.
Ive stripped the carb all looks well and there is fuel inside.
I checked continuity in both low and high tension circuits its all good.
Theres a spark at all plugs so the coil got to be good should I just change it anyway?
Ive also removed 5 scotch bright links (can I blame Adam) from the LT circuit cut the wires back to good soldered the join, used heat shrink rap and crimp brand new spade connectors on the end.

All to no avail still not even a cough. Look like its the towing dolly to workshop to strip and decoke the head replace the HG and regrind the valve seats. If it still wont fire up. I might have to hide and stop myself looking at the petrol can that keeps winking at me. Judging by the state of the parts im pulling out im starting to wonder if this engine has ever been serviced in the 43 years this cars been about

Paul

Paul wrote:Points where burned and pitted

How many condensers have you tried? They're not used soon enough after manufacture, since demand is so low these days, so they invariably leak at a rate of about 9 from 10 new ones, and that figure was found during the R3W ignition test in 2008, testing more than 2000 new ones of various brands; they're all 2 years older now so even less likely to be correctly formed in service.
Test some on a bridge, failing that just measure how long the ones you have hold their charge and fit the one that discharges the most slowly or go to Maplins and buy some paper-in-oil teflon caps and use a value of between 0.1 & 0.22 uF, made up from either one of each in series to give the value between, or two of the lower value in parallel to double it, mounted outside of the distributor or, if small enough, gut the can of an original and put a new cap inside.

JPB wrote:... go to Maplins and buy some paper-in-oil teflon caps and use a value of between 0.1 & 0.22 uF, made up from either one of each in series to give the value between, or two of the lower value in parallel to double it, mounted outside of the distributor or, if small enough, gut the can of an original and put a new cap inside.

Or splash out on one of these:



Top quality audio grade and available in 0.22 uF (500v rating as well!) for a bargain £181 + VAT each. Come with a whole 3 month guarantee as well

I'd sooner eat my own eyeballs than spend that kind of cash on components!