Redtop sprint

[iandollysprint]

Thanks for the link

Engine spec is as follows.
2.0 Capacity, 276 degree sports cams, 7750 max rpm limit. I would be looking for peak torque around the 4-4500 rpm range. I don't think I need a HUGE exhaust manifold for this but some research is required.

I remember when I played about with my BMW M635 and moved the peak torque up the rpm range via adjustable sprockets - it went like a scalded cat to the redline ( and would easliy rev hard past the 7000 rpm limit) but was a bit gutless until you got it to 4700 rpm! I ended up lowering the peak torque point to around 4200 rpm which made it much more driveable.

Ian

[sprint95m]

Also decided on my radiator choice with the help of sprint95m. I will be using a SAAB 93 turbo item which apparently will just fit in. I can also get one with an integral oil cooler fitted which would be good. About to buy all the hoses and reducers needed to plumb it all in. Its starting to take shape now.

Good news is that the Saab radiator does fit into a Dolomite.
It is tight though (I tapped flat the inner front panel flanges on the curved section just forward of the bumper mounts).
To hold the radiator in place I have made simple brackets using the bumper mounts. This makes removal/refitting easy.
The bottom hose requires some alteration (I have a bespoke one anyway), so as to not strain the connection to the radiator.
LH Top hose needs lengthening a little (just cut in the middle and employ an alloy joiner). RH top hose needs a 16-12mm
reducing joiner and some 11mm bore hose.
Saab radiator has 1.8 litre capacity (Dolomite is 1.2) and one third more surface area (using the full width available) than a Dolomite.
I have removed the belt driven fan.

[iandollysprint]

Sounds cool
I have ordered my rad now and all cooling hoses, reducers, joiners etc. Not cheap. I hope to fit the hoses at the weekend. The rad can be done later as I still have other jobs to do like the crank sensor and toothed wheel for the megajolt.

Any pics?

Ian

[sprint95m]

I will take some photos and post on here in due course.

[iandollysprint]

Trial fitted the saab radiator. Seems it will fit well with a little fettling of the inner panel. Loads of room to fit the original kenlowe as well

[sprint95m]

That does look familiar to me .

The bottom hose is a bit of a flaff and I have resorted to placing old hose against the chassis leg and subframe to
act as a protector against potential chaifing.

[iandollysprint]

Fitted the alternator using the BMW adjuster, used two spacers just need a cogged bolt to finish it off

Trial fitted the cooling hose arrangement, need to make up some bespoke hoses for the rad connections, heater matrix is to be retained.

Relocated the battery to the nearside using new threaded bar. Needed to do this because it fouls the alternator on the offside and I also wanted to create some space for when I have an airbox made fed from a cone filter behind the offside headlights.

[sprint95m]

That all looks good to me but....

The bottom hose will need two 45 degree elbows and a joiner I guess?

How is the expansion tank to bottom radiator hose going to be routed?

Which way have you got the heater plumbed in?

[iandollysprint]

That all looks good to me but....

The bottom hose will need two 45 degree elbows and a joiner I guess?

How is the expansion tank to bottom radiator hose going to be routed?

Which way have you got the heater plumbed in?

Bottom hose will have 2*90 degree hoses to raise it up over the subframe mount then an alloy joiner to mate with the pump inlet hose
I plan to feed the expansion tank maybe into the drain of the radiator. Just need to establish the size and thread type and buy an adaptor. I think it is an M12 1.25 thread. The drain plug is the same side as the expansion tank which is therefore the easiest point to connect into.

Outlet to the rear of head goes to rhs heater matrix connection ( as you look from the front of the car. LHS of heater matrix comes back into the pump inletvia reducers. Trust this is the right way round, easy to swap if it isn't.

Ian

[sprint95m]

How goes it now?

I am interested to see how you connect up the bottom hose.
The set up I have installed is okay but can be bettered. I still think 45 degree elbows are more suitable here and
I see that Rally Design have these available in alloy. Obviously we are not comparing like for like since you have a
Vauxhall engine and I have a mere slant four.


Ian, I don't think the radiator drain is really suitable for connecting the expansion tank's bottom hose to. This I think
because you will end up with a rather small bore hose tail to fit M12? These hoses are usually 16 or 19mm bore.
From where your expansion tank is located it is perfectly feasible to run a hose around the back of the engine to be
connected to the bottom hose.


So far I have not done many miles but the engine runs as before (which is to be expected given that it is controlled by a
thermostat), save the absence of fixed fan noise. It takes the same time to warm up.
I have still to source an electric fan.

Yes, I know, I need to take some pictures ............

[iandollysprint]

How goes it now?

I am interested to see how you connect up the bottom hose.
The set up I have installed is okay but can be bettered. I still think 45 degree elbows are more suitable here and
I see that Rally Design have these available in alloy. Obviously we are not comparing like for like since you have a
Vauxhall engine and I have a mere slant four.


Ian, I don't think the radiator drain is really suitable for connecting the expansion tank's bottom hose to. This I think
because you will end up with a rather small bore hose tail to fit M12? These hoses are usually 16 or 19mm bore.
From where your expansion tank is located it is perfectly feasible to run a hose around the back of the engine to be
connected to the bottom hose.


So far I have not done many miles but the engine runs as before (which is to be expected given that it is controlled by a
thermostat), save the absence of fixed fan noise. It takes the same time to warm up.
I have still to source an electric fan.

Yes, I know, I need to take some pictures ............

For my application I need to get the bottom hose up over the subframe just like yours. I also need a slight incline from the bottom hose to the pump inlet connection. This is because the alternator my foul the hose if it comes in horizontal. I will have to measure things more accurately before I proceed.

With regards to the fill point I am probably going to run a feed from the tank to the back of the engine and run this down the inlet side to then go into the pump inlet connection.

At present I have everything removed as I have to sort out the new electrical connectors for the alternator and starter motor, then build eveything back up to complete things.
I'll let you know how I go on.

Ian

[Carledo]

Hi there, I saw your sump dilemma and thought this might help! I used a Carlton engine in my Toledo, this lump is dimensionally identical to the Red-Top but the well of the sump is at the front of the engine. Thus the oil pump pickup is slightly different and the dipstick is in a different place however on cav 8v engines there is a blanking plug in the block for the Carlton dipstick! Dunno if this applies to the C20XE though! Using this config has let me fit the engine so far back I had to bash a small dent in the bulkhead to clear the dizzy cap!

[Carledo]

Fitted the alternator using the BMW adjuster, used two spacers just need a cogged bolt to finish it off

Trial fitted the cooling hose arrangement, need to make up some bespoke hoses for the rad connections, heater matrix is to be retained.

Relocated the battery to the nearside using new threaded bar. Needed to do this because it fouls the alternator on the offside and I also wanted to create some space for when I have an airbox made fed from a cone filter behind the offside headlights.

Me again, it looks like you've created a real birds nest of pipes there! All you really needed to do waswhat I did, use all the pipes and bits from an 8v Carlton which is already RWD so it faces the right way and you can use Vauxhall tech which is sure to work! As an add on I used the header tank from a Volvo 240 which fitted snugly just in front of the o/s strut tower and still left plenty of room for a cone filter beside my Saab 93 rad (great minds DO think alike!) Pics of mine are on "Newbie and my car" posted today in the top forum. Steve

[iandollysprint]

Great! I'll remember to take the easier route on my next install...
Seriously though it's good to know that there is something out there that could be used. It would still be a bit of rats nest though as I need a connection to the header tank bleed, header tank fill, rad, pump inlet, heater matrix in and out etc.

I want the header tank right out of the way hence why it is going on the bulkhead. My air box will be very bespoke and I wanted as much room as I could get to fit a cone filter.

Thanks for the input

Ian

[iandollysprint]

Hi there, I saw your sump dilemma and thought this might help! I used a Carlton engine in my Toledo, this lump is dimensionally identical to the Red-Top but the well of the sump is at the front of the engine. Thus the oil pump pickup is slightly different and the dipstick is in a different place however on cav 8v engines there is a blanking plug in the block for the Carlton dipstick! Dunno if this applies to the C20XE though! Using this config has let me fit the engine so far back I had to bash a small dent in the bulkhead to clear the dizzy cap!

I think I have the same sump as you then. I unblocked the dip stick hole in the block to fit a bespoke chopped down one.
My engine is perhaps even further back than yours as my distributor is removed and a simple blank fitted. I have about 1 inch clearance to the bulkhead sound deadening material. Great if the sump is the same if others chose to go down the XE route. Like I said I had to do a big search to find a front bowl sump that worked.

Ian