DTR - Project Recommission 1972 'Dolomite' Manual

[matt of the vivas]

Very very early cars have the relay box but no seperate resistors on the rear lights..

[new to this]

James

Thanks for reply,ill see if i have the rear light dimming relay,today I've been looking at how to repair the inner valance up by the top radiator mount,i know what you mean a horrible job to do

Dave

[new to this]

Very very early cars have the relay box but no seperate resistors on the rear lights..

when removed to lights,don't remember seing any resistors on the rear lights

Dave

[dollyman]

I must have a look at mine, i did'nt realise they had these? Mine is july 72
I will check when it's less cold
Cheers,
Tony.

[James467]

It is cold, no snow though!

I did manage to get all of the old Ziebart off of the engine bay.

Too cold to paint or do bodywork and I need to have the engine bay sprayed before the NEC.







I have also pulled the rack out to check it, all seems fine. It is a replacement, but will be fine with a clean up, re-grease, new bellows and rod ends.

I pulled all of the fuel and brake lines ready for the new ones to be fitted. I now have a complete set for templates, all in very good condition.





I have also cleaned up the suspension, and cleaned, degreased then coated the wheel arches with a couple of coats of Bilt Hamber Dynax.







Nothing other than bodywork for me to do, will fit new balljoints at the NEC with the brakes and bits back on the bulkhead. Then engine is still ongoing!

[SprintMWU773V]

Does the Dynax come in a spray or dis you need to use a Shultz gun?

I could do with applying something similar to the arches of the Greenbrier and though I have a tin of underseal I would need to brush it on which tends to look a bit crappy. I've never used a Shultz gun, looks like a sure fire way to make a mess!

[James467]

They do do it in aerosols but I don't think they are very economical. I got a 5 litre jerry can of the stuff as I want to use it on YGD as well.

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pr ... s/dynax-ub

I didn't try it in the schultz gun as I wasn't sure if it would work, I got one of these from Amazon and gave it a go. I did heat the can up before, like you would do with Waxoyl but I don't think it was necessary TBH.

http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.a ... uctid=7922

[sprint95m]

Does your 1850 have conical washers and bushes at the front of the subframe James?




Ian.

[SprintMWU773V]

They do do it in aerosols but I don't think they are very economical. I got a 5 litre jerry can of the stuff as I want to use it on YGD as well.

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pr ... s/dynax-ub

I didn't try it in the schultz gun as I wasn't sure if it would work, I got one of these from Amazon and gave it a go. I did heat the can up before, like you would do with Waxoyl but I don't think it was necessary TBH.

http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.a ... uctid=7922

That looks to be a good solution. I'll need to do the chassis too, though I do have a tin of Dinitrol 3125 which I can use with a gun. The Dynax gets good reviews and should be perfect for the arches. I could probably do with doing some parts of the Mazda again too so this could be a sound investment. I suspect there's a Sealey clone out there for half the price though

[James467]

Does your 1850 have conical washers and bushes at the front of the subframe James?




Ian.

I haven't taken it apart but yes it looks like it has the early style of from sub-frame fitting, it doesn't look to have the thick upper bush fitted.

[dollyman]

I recently bought the Dynax S50 in aerosols and can say it is very economical for all the cavity's.
Personally i would never use underseal as it seal in any moisture I used some waxoyl that i had for years for the floors and easy to get to bits, but the aerosols of Dynax S50 are best for the rust prone areas
You might say it is expensive...... But What would you pay for a wing or a sill without fitting and paint
3 cans were more than enough for my "Dolly" and when you use it you will find how good it is
So dont go for cheap stuff its not worth it
Cheers,
Tony.

PS It's looking good Jame's and is a credit to you

[sprint95m]

I haven't taken it apart but yes it looks like it has the early style of from sub-frame fitting, it doesn't look to have the thick upper bush fitted.

Or indeed the protruding bolt.

The conical bush arrangement didn't last long in production on Dolomites, the later arrangement is (infinitely?) better.
I would change it to said later type if it was my car, given the way the hidden upper steel cups corrode.....



Ian.

[James467]

Heat is on!

[James467]

No word on the engine yet but we do have a couple of weeks to go, if I have to I'll take it to the NEC and reassemble it there!

In the meantime I have cleaned and shot some colour onto the engine bay to touch up the areas that were rubbed through when I removed the Ziebart. I didnt mask the wires as I'll have to strip them back to repair an earth that is damaged and to wire in the halogen headlights properly.



The subframe has had the overspray cleaned off and I'll pull the subframe bolts one by one, clean them and replace the suspension turret nuts.

I have also thoroughly cleaned and refitted the bulkhead pad.



Stripped the repair wings and front valence back to bare metal and gave it a light coat of acid etch just to protect the metal. I'll try and get some filler on today, I'll need to remove the primer where I fill though.



All the trim is now clean, polished and ready to be refitted

I had a go at cutting and polishing the bootlid to see how the paint would react. It has come up quite well, not great, the photo hides some of the marks in the paint but it is old paint and has rubbed through in a couple of areas but I like the patina. If the whole car comes up the same way I'll be happy and it should look really good with polished trim and bumpers.

[dollyman]

At this rate James...... You might even be able to drive it there

Well done.

Cheers,
Tony.