The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

xvivalve wrote:

wonder where i could put the reg plate

If you are putting the rear bumper on you could fabricate a couple of L brackets, pop rivet short leg to underside bumper blade, offset to RHS with two vertical long legs to pop the plate to...

or,

Simply top hinge the plate in correct position so it acts like the lid on a diesel Mack...

I have thought about putting the reg plate on hinges and have it cable operated with a dummy petrol filler for
when i get a little heavy footed .

Little update ,
Been in talks with Bunkas
Doesn't look like there will be another dolomite looking like his as
The kit on his was built on the car ,
Sending my shell over to him to make a kit for mine was ££
So looks like bubble arches after all.
Also had an email off a member giving me some info on shock fitting
and that the way i have done mine wont work as there in the wrong orientation
He seems to think that they will fold back first before damping as there not fitted
To the axle and they should be turned through 90 *
Any one got any thoughts on this as i havnt welded the axle mounts up yet and can be changed
I wouldnt have thought it would make much difference
The shock may have to work a little harder being slightly inboard
i could understand if it were a rally car with xxx amount of suspension travell
but i will only see a limited movement as its going to be quite low
any suspension gurus out there ??

DF wrote:Any one got any thoughts on this as i havnt welded the axle mounts up yet and can be changed
I wouldnt have thought it would make much difference

They are usually mounted the other way round but I think that's mostly to allow loads of room for the axle to move. As long as you can get one end at full bump and the other at full droop without running out of space for them to move I'd expect it to be fine. With Neil's car we just put the axle on with no springs and moved it about to check everything moved freely and nothing hit anything.

zombeh wrote:

DF wrote:Any one got any thoughts on this as i havnt welded the axle mounts up yet and can be changed
I wouldnt have thought it would make much difference

They are usually mounted the other way round but I think that's mostly to allow loads of room for the axle to move. As long as you can get one end at full bump and the other at full droop without running out of space for them to move I'd expect it to be fine. With Neil's car we just put the axle on with no springs and moved it about to check everything moved freely and nothing hit anything.

Cheers Thats what i did with mine ,
Also my shocks are rose jointed so turning through 90 wouldnt make much difference ,
He also said that was his theory !
Hows Neils car coming along hasnt posted for a while ?
Mine is getting there now just had 3 weeks solid on it 12 hr days
Bare metaled and primed the inside
Boot ,cage ,electric steering all in and front inner wheel arches bare metaled primed and modified as they touch in certain places when lowered with 16" wheels fitted,
Also managed to blag some more cage bar from custom cages as im also coming of the front turrets and going through the bulkhead meeting in the center of the dash bar,
Hate to think how many hours have gone into this allready but i think it will
be worth it

DF wrote:....Hate to think how many hours have gone into this already but i think it will
be worth it

It definitely will be worth it, probably best you don't count the hours as you may get a huge shock once you start adding them all up!
Groundbreaking engineering is happening here, I know of two people from other car enthusiast forum-type places who are reading this build thread and loving every little detail of it just as we all are.

DF wrote:Hows Neils car coming along hasnt posted for a while ?

I think he saves it all up so that an update has lots of new things in it. Most of the time gets spent trying to work out what the best (or least bad) way to do things is, though it has acquired a heater and wiper motor since he last posted about it. I will nag him for an update when I see him next.

JPB wrote:

DF wrote:....Hate to think how many hours have gone into this already but i think it will
be worth it

It definitely will be worth it, probably best you don't count the hours as you may get a huge shock once you start adding them all up!
Groundbreaking engineering is happening here, I know of two people from other car enthusiast forum-type places who are reading this build thread and loving every little detail of it just as we all are.

Thanks
I have saved every receipt even for the smallest of things and when finished will tot up and may post how much £

zombeh wrote:

DF wrote:Hows Neils car coming along hasnt posted for a while ?

I think he saves it all up so that an update has lots of new things in it. Most of the time gets spent trying to work out what the best (or least bad) way to do things is, though it has acquired a heater and wiper motor since he last posted about it. I will nag him for an update when I see him next.

Ahh good glad hes still progressing

very small update
Started to make another ex manifold as i want to move the turbo slightly down away from the bonnet




Haven't done alot on car in the last few weeks had a bit of a break from it
But back on track now.

Damn, I wish I could weld that neat!

swifty wrote:Damn, I wish I could weld that neat!

I wish I could weld

Bit more of the cage in


Also fitting another bar from the top of the door bar to rear pick up point

In all im fitting 6 extra bars to this cage 4 front 2 rear,

One bar done ,

Glad to see work has resumed on this one mate! It'll be cracking when done, that's for sure.

Nice to see it's still progressing.
Do you really think it's worth adding all those extra tubes? they are are pretty substantial cage all ready.

Neil907 wrote:Nice to see it's still progressing.
Do you really think it's worth adding all those extra tubes? they are are pretty substantial cage all ready.

Hi Neil
I have put the rear tube in to support the end of the top door bar
My thinking is in a front impact it will transfer some of the shock through to the rear pick up point
Instead of it collapsing the rear main hoop,
I have seen this on some of the rally cars ,
Its quite a substantial cage but what i want to do with the car ...well more is better
Triangulating the front turrets as well to the center of the bar across the dash
Extra 5.4kilos in weight in all so not to bad,