The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

back home today

Work starts on this thing tomorrow night.

Some other engine Pics i like

zombeh wrote:

Jon Tilson wrote:Auto v manual o/d sprint mounting is a different cross member and mounting rubber

The cross member is attached to the body with a funny double captive bolt thingy that should be the same for both IIRC.

There are three holes in the body each side. Sprint and 1850 o/d use the back pair (and have the same crossmember), 1850 without o/d use the front pair.
unsure about autos, as jonners says they probably use the same mount points as the o/d boxes.

You seem to have a bracket with bolts in all three holes, it should line up with the back two bolts each side, if it doesn't it's on the wrong way round

Cheers Mate thats how it looks

Will try get it fitted up tomorrow night and let you all know what i found to be wrong etc.

I'd put the rocker cover on and plug the inlet ports of the head, just in case.

sprint95m wrote:I'd put the rocker cover on and plug the inlet ports of the head, just in case.

Thanks for the tip mate.
ive got a towel over it at the moment Just brought some black paint today to give her a spray before i put her on.

Well go the water pump in Gasket etc and cover

Also found out why i couldn't get the Box Bracket bolted up, had to be turned around and then the brackets holes were to small so they needed to be drilled out. Spent a couple of hours on her tonight.
But defiantly some motivation1!!!!

So hopefully when i shut the car off now the water pump does not leak!!!

Alrighty been having a few problems with the electrics but i am slowly getting through them.
Today i wired the overdrive switch and solenoid etc up, i can hear it clicking in and out.
Got ride of some unnecessary wiring, checked that the starter would click and turn the car over, put the dizzy in.

Anyways you can check that the oil is getting pumped etc? Places it should come out by the cam?

Also decided that my ignition barrel is stuffed, puts power onto all 3 connectors when starting or just in the on Position.
So i am going to do a Fuse and relay box for my electric fans, and maybe fuel pump, with a ignition switch to give another push button engine start button power and maybe some lights to show it has power.
I think it will look cool.
Push itl have the switches for my fans etc.

So really i didn't get crap all done i guess.

Went and got a Airtek Fuel Pump from the guys that supplied me my Clutch
Just a low Pressure 6-7Psi one hopefully it will do the trick.

Also a fuel filter, Plastic enclosure, Ignition power switch with red amber glow will switch power to the Fans and power to the push button,a nice push button switch to start the motor, And some RED 12Volt led Lights to tell you the keys on.

All of just what i wanted.

Well Spent a good 4 hours on the car tonight, wired up my new ignition box with fan and fuel pump switch.
Got all the dash lights working, installed my newly polished coil and now i have no coil voltage????????????????????.
Don't have my books at home with me so ill suss that out tomorrow, new $6 clutch hose i made put in and bleed.

Didn't get alot done but good things take time i guess.

Will update tomorrow im tired

My Small Wiring mess At the moment


Pic of New Pump, Polished Coil, Clutch hose if you can see it.



So i don't know what happen to my coil voltage as it comes straight off the ignition, i don't think my coil has the resistor before it because im sure they wouldn't wrap it up in the loom would they? Id expect it to be out by the coil???
If there is no resistor i will just try my best at finding the coil ignition cable tonight or just run a new one.

Hopefully get the wiring finished tonight.

Are you using the 1850 wiring loom?
If as I suspect you are, then as it is an early car, it had an external ballast resistor (mounted on the inlet manifold alongside the coil). This will still be on the 1850 engine?

sprint95m wrote:Are you using the 1850 wiring loom?
If as I suspect you are, then as it is an early car, it had an external ballast resistor (mounted on the inlet manifold alongside the coil). This will still be on the 1850 engine?

Yup i am still using the 1850 wiring, i think you may have been right, i do not 100% recall the 1850 motor and electrics as they got pulled out asap.
ill have a look at some pics of the motor etc before i pulled her out.

If this was the case, it should be fine to wire it like the sprint and wack 12volts on the coil?
There should be a direct feed coming straight from the ignition right?

I see the early 1850 tachometer is fed differently to the Sprint one.

Are you using electronic ignition on a 12V system?

Regarding the coil, the wiring colours are the same for 1850 and Sprint, that is white wire with yellow trace goes from starter motor solenoid to +ve side of the coil and white/blue goes to distributor from -ve side. If you are using the Sprint tachometer (as it appears you are from your photo) the feed wire is from the -ve side of the coil (wire is white/slate). (The 1850 wiring loom won't work the Sprint tacho as the feed is from the +ve side of the coil.) This white/yellow wire gives a full 12 volts when the starter is operated as it bypasses the ballast resistor (whereas the resistor reduces voltage to 6V while engine is running).

For the 1850 wiring, the white/slate wire goes from the tacho to the ballast resistor (then the +ve side of coil), so without the 1850 tacho in place the wiring won't work. It should be possible to bypass this by connecting the white wire from the ignition switch to the white/grey wire which is then connected to the +ve side of the coil (doing so without a ballast resistor gives 12V). Now if you are using a 12V electronic ignition system then you are set. If not, this is where you need to wire in the resistor.


Hope this is helpful, Stew.

As Ian said the wiring is different i didn't even notice that 1850 and sprint wiring was a tad different.
So cheers Ian for your detailed description, i ran a new cable to supply the coil, and used the other to receive the pulse etc

Got the Fuel pump and Fan wired in, Radiator and fan Installed, Relay installed, Checked that the pump and fan would work fine on the wiring i set up with the Starter turning over.
Everything works mint.

Will update tomorrow morning of what is left to be done before turning the key (pushing a button in my case)

Pics







Just gota sort the dizzy timing out which leads go where, i dunno why but i can not get my head around it!
So if any body has a good simplified way of setting this up please let me know.
Bu dizzy at the moment while the engine is at TDC is at 5 Oclock or so if your looking from the front of the car.
Thats where no1 lead is going to Firing order is 1324 right???

firing order is 1342