NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto

[xvivalve]

That's a Sprint rad

[Carledo]

Why did you pull the converter out with the engine Dave? Besides the fact that it makes the engine longer and heavier, it means you will have to realign and refit it in the trans, not to mention the possible damage from misalignment on removal! Its only 4 bolts FFS!

Steve

[tony g]

Why did you pull the converter out with the engine Dave? Besides the fact that it makes the engine longer and heavier, it means you will have to realign and refit it in the trans, not to mention the possible damage from misalignment on removal! Its only 4 bolts FFS!

Steve

I thought that too. That is never the way to pull an engine from an auto. Box and converter stay together at all times unless the box is being stripped!. I dont expect the front seal in the box to be any good now looking at that angle on the crane.

Tony

[Jon Tilson]

Not to mention the loss of fluid...

I guess now its been done that way maybe look at renewing the front seal in the box and then fit the converter too the
box before putting the engine back in.

With a decent crane like that I would swing engine and box together and separate them when out of the car.

Jonners

[Toledo Man]

Don't worry! I didn't strain the input shaft. As soon as the engine was totally free, it tilted back which is why it was at an angle when I was lifting it out. I did lose a bit of transmission fluid. I'll be checking the level once it is up and running again. I fitted the torque converter on to the input shaft as soon as I'd unbolted it from the driveplate.

Today I torqued up the bolts for the drive plate (45 lb/ft, the same as for the flywheel) and then the engine went back in. I managed to get it level going back in and with a trolley jack under the transmission I was able to reunite the engine and transmission without too much trouble.



I've got a couple of bellhousing bolts in to keep the engine and transmission together, I've connected the throttle & downshift cables, I've refitted the radiator, fitted the hoses (I replaced the clips for the top hose), filled the cooling system, connected the oil pressure sender, connected the electronic ignition, connected the multiplug for the inhibitor switch, connected the coolant temperature sender and connected the alternator multiplug.

Jobs left to do:
Fit the rest of the bellhousing bolts.
Fit the starter motor.
Fit the choke cable.
Fit the horns.
Fit the battery (I've charged it up).
Fit the front section of exhaust (I've got a new clamp)
Fit the torque convertor bolts.
Fit the bonnet.

[Jon Tilson]

Converter bolts aren't much fun with it all in place...

Can you do them through the starter hole - I can't remember. I'd have a look before you put the starter in - in fact do the starter last as it improves access to the downpipe studs.

Quick work though...looks to be going well.

Jonners

[Toledo Man]

I was thinking of leaving the starter motor till last (great minds think alike!). I was also thinking that it might be possible to get to the bolt holes through the starter motor hole. I could've done more today but I wanted to get the engine crane back to CDK Motors who so kindly lent it to me. I want to make the final push tomorrow to get it done.

More to follow...

[MIG Wielder]

Hi Dave, Would it be worth getting the old flex-plate welded up it they are in short supply ? O.K. it would have to be done accurately so the run-out at the edge of the flex-plate was still in spec; and it would have to be balanced afterwards, but it might keep another automatic on the road. Does this torque converter do the same job on the automatic as a heavy flywheel on the manual 4-speed box ?
Back on the road tomorrow then.
Good Luck,
Tony.

[Carledo]

My Sprint auto had a hole in the engine backplate, inboard and a little below the starter hole expressly for access to the converter bolts. I would have thought it wasn't the only one to be so equipped. It had a blanking grommet in it and was covered in crud so was quite hard to see initially but I knew it had to be there so I persevered and found it. I'd take a picture, but I sold it with the transmission!

Steve

[Toledo Man]

There's a gap at the bottom of the backplate for access to the bolts. I can just about reach the driveplate with my fingertips. It is possible to get the bolts in with some socket extensions and a UJ.
This is where I was when I started work today.


I got everything connected back up and when I first started it up there was a horrible noise coming from the torque converter. I checked the bolts and they needed tightening up a bit more and it has cured the problem. The starter seems to be struggling so I'm wondering if I've not tightened something up fully. The top bolt was an absolute pig of a job. The only way I could do it was to put the bolt in from the front. The car is driving fine but there's a knock from the exhaust so I'll need to check the bracket at the rear of the downpipe. It just needs a bit of adjustment to pull it away from the chassis leg. With the car out of the garage and back home, I decided to fit my speakers.

I got one of them working but I ran out of speaker wire so I'll have to get some more to finish off this job. I've spent the last 3 days working on this car so I might not bother doing anything tomorrow. I think I've earned a well deserved rest.

[Karlos]

Hey Dave, I guess you checked the ATF level and topped up appropriately before running the engine for any length of time? It's worth going through everything again and making sure it's all torqued up nicely before going out on the road.
You've certainly given it some love this week, a lot of effort, don't let it be wasted by overlooking anything in your excitement to get behind the wheel again.

[Toledo Man]

I'm out of transmission fluid so I've not checked it yet. I'm not doing any work on the car today so I'll buy a litre of fluid and get it done during the week. The Astra is my main car so I can get stuff done at my leisure with no rush to get driving again. I'm a bit loath to drive it until I've sorted out the sluggish starter and knocking exhaust. I've got use of the garage should I need it again.

Edit: Well, I just couldn't help myself. I checked the positive lead to the starter motor and it was secure so I checked the engine earth lead and it was loose. Once it was tightened up it started up on the button.

[Mahesh]

Impossible to leave alone,

I complain it's cold, dark, wet but still manage to do something.

[Jon Tilson]

I was just going to suggest the engine earth strap...

Hope it didn't churn too long or you can melt the nylon on the throttle cable....

I had to drive home 10 miles once at a 1500 rpm fast idle as I seized a throttle cable when it was acting as a return for a broken earth strap.

You want those converter bolts torqued right. There are only 4 and they do a lot of work...

Jonners

[Toledo Man]

That's something else I had in mind to do but most of the drive plate replacement job was an absolute pig of a job which was physically and mentally exhausting. No wonder I'd missed a few things. I've got the figure to hand (34 lb/ft) and I'm getting good at accessing the bolts past the sump and steering rack (my 3/8" extensions and UJ are perfect for this kind of job) so it shouldn't be too hard to torque them up. I can do this at the same time as I'm adjusting the downpipe bracket.