The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Howard, you can check the MOT history for any car on the VOSA site, including past advisories.
BTW, did you have a search of your bulk gmail folders yet and have you received the last PM?

Sounds like you have some leccy issues....so I'd look at ballast bypass feeds and coil voltage on a non starter.
Quick way is to just hot wire the coil + direct from battery plus when starting up. If it goes you have a bit of terminal cleaning on the starter and solenoid to do.
Also a squirt of Easy start will tell you if you have a spark or not.

Ive just recarbed my 1300 and that took a while to go until I sussed that the choke linkage wasnt pulling the jet down enough.

Any idea when you wnat the Sprint tuned?

Gary would sort the cill for about a ton to 150 plus parts. Thats about what he charges me anyway. Depends on how much plating is needed behind.

Jonners

I think it got advisories on the foot wells, or maybe just one and an exhaust manifold blow which I got rid of before I sold it to you. Oh and all of the tyres, because they were beyond cracking, they were crumbling

Howard81 wrote:

Howard, I hope I am wrong but I have to say from the above photograph I reckon you'll need major inner sill repair too.

The sill structure consists of outer, inner and centre diaphragm. The lower parts of each rust from the inside out all along their lowest section. The diaphragm to inner joint is a particularly good rust trap. Even with rust eating away inside it may well feel sound on the outside.
If I had your car I would replace the outer sills and let sections into the diaphragm and inner. This is what I did to my own car.
Please look at the excellent work Derek is doing ON REG'S CAR for guidance on what is fairly typical to cars of the seventies.

There have been posts on this forum from people saying they don't trust the jacking points. To me it is simple, if you cannot support a car on its sills, that car is in need of repair.
I can raise one side of my car (lifting both wheels off the ground) using a jack at the either end of each sill and then open and close the doors normally.

There is a saying isn't there.....
If a job is worth doing then it is worth doing properly.

Simple solution Howard, why not give Mr Wilkes a ring and whilst Clarky is doing the donkey swap Wilksey can be sorting your cill; they live no more than 20 miles apart, you'll not get much better a job done and you certainly won't pay less. I'll PM you his number...

With the two of them interfering with each other's working space you might have to impose yourself chez clarky overnight, but I doubt that will be an issue.

With regard the non start - check your fuses; I think its the bottom one controls both ignition and wipers...

xvivalve wrote: you might have to impose yourself chez clarky overnight, but I doubt that will be an issue.

Apart from the sizeable quantity of hifi / computer / car / lawnmower 'spares' that are currently stored in my spare bedroom!

Fear not, Howard is already staying over on Friday night I believe.

xvivalve wrote:With regard the non start - check your fuses; I think its the bottom one controls both ignition and wipers...

Yes ish. The wipers are supplied through the fuse, the ignition is fed from the upstream side of the same fuse. Check this list. If other unfused, white wire, items are playing up then its the white wire terminals that need a clean. If the white wire items all work but items on the green wire list are also not working then the fuse/holder needs a clean.

Ah sod it, just whip the fuse box out and give it a clean.

Any progress Howard?

Ken R wrote:Any progress Howard?

Err.. no..

However, I'm back in Poole now, so I've nicked the 45D4 dizzy off my spare engine - back on Wednesday, so Thursday will be spent fitting the known good points and condensor, new sparkplugs and the fusebox is coming off for a good cleanup. If that doesn't work then I'll try Jon's "direct wire" trick. I think I might have a new set of plug leads around here somewhere too...

Is the coil on my 1500 ballasted? Would the (known good) Lucas DLB102 off my Sprint be a direct swap?

Yes ballasted and no.

welding is a speciality of mine plus I can MOT it afterwards.

Yes it is

Yes he can

You got it started yet Howard?

No, not yet -I've been in Poole since Sunday! Back to London tomorrow

tinweevil wrote:Yes ballasted and no.

But the DLB102 is a ballasted sports coil? http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/98

I have a DLB105 on my Sprint, but Roy modified the wiring to bypass the balast resistor...