electronic ignition
The unit needs 12v,so the red(positive) wire needs to be extended to reach the fusebox,if you attach it to the coil it will not get enough power because of the in-line ballast resitor which cuts down the voltage to the coil..however,the negative(black) wire goes straight to the coil,and so dosn't need to be extended..i take it that your local specialist attached both wires to the coil then?...bit worrying if so,they should have known that already..
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tinganting
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tinganting
ok... so i am now told thet my coil will give off a intial 12v jolt and then the ballast resistorv will kick in as it gets warm.. now that makes sense.. having fitted these to amny a stag etc i am told that mine is not working as there was no intial spark to fire the engine on.. so i then contact jigsaw.. nice chap by the way.. i am then told i can have a whole new distributor with al new electronics in ther but at a cost £190.00 i thinks i will wait and see what else i find out
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Jon Tilson
- Guest contributor
- Posts: 11179
- Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:45 pm
- Location: Middlesex
Some principals...
The ballasted coil will typically run at 6 Volts. To achieve this there is an inlne resistance wire in the loom from switch to coil plus on all later dolomites. At starting this wire is bypassed by a lead from the starter solenoid so the coil gets the full battery voltage during cranking. This aslo goes to the coil plus terminal.
To drive the electronic ignition unit power you need a 12V non fused supply, which is available easilly from the non fused side of the fuse box.
The live side is the white/brown side and IIRC the ignition feed is the white wire.
You dont want the unit multiply fused really cos if you do, the wipers or an indicator short for exampl could take out your ignition. If you want it fused it should be on its own individual fuse.
Jonners
To drive the electronic ignition unit power you need a 12V non fused supply, which is available easilly from the non fused side of the fuse box.
The live side is the white/brown side and IIRC the ignition feed is the white wire.
You dont want the unit multiply fused really cos if you do, the wipers or an indicator short for exampl could take out your ignition. If you want it fused it should be on its own individual fuse.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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tinganting
hi.. thanks for that.. that is what my mechanic said. but there was no intial spark from crank.. so it was getting the full 12v but no spark..... so the only answer is dead unit.. so all in all. i will forget it.. points are lovely ..can't live without them.. bring on the points.. and the point to all this is.. i have had enough.. just want a simple little ignition .. so uprated coil and leads will surfice for a little while..
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tinganting
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dollysteve
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VYO 372M
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Sprint36
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KWM338R
I've tried a Pertronix(aldon) ignitor in my Sprint. I have had no luck with it. The first one died about 3 months after installing it. I did all the tests Pertronix faxed me and it pointed to a defunct module. I sent it back and they claimed it was OK, they sent me a new on anyway. I installed the new one and the car still wouldn't run right. I put the points back in and everything was dandy again. I have since rebuilt the Dizzy to take out the slop in the shaft so will try it again if I ever get the car back together 
Cheers
Mark
Cheers
Mark