C20XE vauxhall engine install update

[Mr.Speedy]

Personally I think that's a bit steep for a propshaft.
We have huge propshafts made for narrowboats which use 1410 series joints ( 3.5 t truck size ) and about 8-9 feet long, balanced for around 180 quid + vat. Just had one made for the 400e project; ford type 9 one end and Zephyr diff the other end by about 3 feet and cost 140 + vat.
If anyone needs a propshaft making let me know !

[eightiesflamer]

Painted engine bay, previously looking tired

Engine back in to mock fit wiring loom
.
Check out the oil catch tank.

[tinweevil]

Like the catch tank lots, looks like it is made for the job or was it a very lucky find? Does the battery fit in the standard location with that there? If so get a price

Really tidy job on the mounts both engine and body side. What effect will there be from mounting the engine on the body instead of on the subframe? I've no idea what the effects of that would be so would chicken out and engineer to the subframe again. Thats fear of the unknown. I can guess at a bit more vibration and static stiffness but would have no clue if it will be enough vibration to matter or enough stiffness to appreciably help. Will there be a twisting effect or would that require 400+ bhp (random figure)? What effect is there on handling by having the heavy bit one more set of rubber (or poly) distant from the tyres?

Looking for education here, looks like top class engineering.

Tinweevil

[eightiesflamer]

Tin
The battery is located in the boot in a lovely looking alloy battery box, as for the engine mounting it would be very very difficult to mount to the subframe. I am assured that the mounting points are as good if not better than standard, sorry I hav'nt replied sooner been a bit tied up.
Some more progression pictures for you.
ECU wiring loom being fitted

Note the new lightweight alternator and rose jointed bracket. New alloy multi vee crank pulley

New alloy coil pack, map sensor and remote oil filter brackets.

[2F45T4U]

Looking good

Guy in work has a Cavalier SRI with a red top 2 litre... I know nothing about them, But he tells me there really the YB cosworth engine bottom end with a different head.... Why are they such a good engine?

[Lewis]

I don't think Cosworth had anything to do with the block (as it's based on GM's 8 valver but I might be wrong there) per se but they definitely worked on the cylinder head - I believe these were early engines with Coscast heads but later ones had Vauxhall/GM produced ones that were pretty much the same.

Big ports, good flowing head, equal bore and stroke, decent stock parts, fuel injection.......All many of the reasons why it's a good engine. Standard it makes 150BHP though, so it's nothing totally out of the ordinary (i.e. compared to a similar decent Zetec or VTEC lump) but it does tune very well and you can get 200BHP out of them with bolt-ons and more by tearing it down. IIRC Phil said the blokey who bought his Sprint off him was fitting a 290BHP one....

The XE has a cast-iron block with an alloy 16-valve head with belt-driven overhead cams, which are hydraulic in operation. The induction is on the left, which is of course fuel injection, while the exhaust is on the right. .... The Manta 1800 block is virtually identical and will accept the XE head. However, more significant is that Mantas are rear-wheel drive and as such, parts can be used to turn the enigne round the right way - for use in classic Fords.

There shouldn't really be a question as to which engine you've got since all XE's are 2-litre - kind of reduces the risk a bit. The block is the same as the eight-valve although there are around five different types with minor variations - cheifly these are in the oil ways and some slight differences in the water passages. However, it's worth checking you haven't got an 1800 block, which should have 1.8 cast into it, whereas the XE has 2.0. There is also a system of casting marks on the top of the block - HH or HG, followed by a number. This corresponds to the block version, i.e. HH1 being the first, these were produced up to HH9 and HG1 being the first of then going to HG4, with each block having improved over its predecessor. XEs have cast cranks and connecting rods although Coscast engines have forged pistons. These have flat skirts all the way round, which is different to cast types. Rev limit on a standard engine 7250 rpm, and bore and stroke is equal at 86mm.

As we've mentioned, early heads are Coscast and as such, have this cast into the rear - GM ones surprisingly have GM cast into them. There's absolutely no performance difference in either type of head, although, since the later heads are of poorer quality material, they are prone to problems with porosity.

The main area for concern is the oil ways, of which there's three - two running down either side the length of the head, while the problem one's the single tract running across the head, in the middle of the unit.

Specifically, where this gives problems is the centre head bolt area, which can be bored in manufacture so that there's little material between it and the oil way. Both Coscast, but more likely GM head can be machined like this but the downdrading in materal quality seriously increases the problem with the latter casting. The porous casting can be sorted by eithr re-tubing or generally re-sealing the area but according to specialists SBD, nothing is truly guaranteed. the safest solution is to seek out a Coscast head and use that. You'll know when you have the problem, though - your water will go brown/mayo and you'll think you keep blowing head gaskets.

The engine has nice, big ports and doesn't need a great deal of work to release further power, although the main area for work is the port-to-throat area. Cams, as you'd expect on a standard road engine, are quite mild with plenty of room for improvements. However, the main concern is cam drive because there are two types depending on which engine you have. Basically, the later SRi (and onwards) engine has a square section to the bottom ot the teeth, whereas early engines have a U-section. You obviously need to know which engine you've got if you're fitting vernier pulleys.

They do have a few inherent issues though, mostly mentioned above.

[eightiesflamer]

Super tight fit.


Whole system with two boxes to keep noise under 100db.


Rear box similar to my last stainless jobie but with a reqested corner exit opposed to just rear exit.

[Sprint36]

That's some manifold Darren! Who made it?

David

[eightiesflamer]

Cheers ceri for doing that, it was my second attempt too at putting up the pics, not sure where I had gone wrong. Ive learnt along the way about the cylinder head identification but its always useful too refer too, especially any body looking to do a similar transplant.

My only concern is when I have to remove the engine, that will be a fun job.

David an exhaust builders named Haywood and Scott in essex did the work to a supplied specification, bloody good stuff too, not one of their easiest job I recon.

[Lewis]

Beautiful

The exhaust looks very convoluted, must have taken them a fair bit of time to lay all the parts out and amke it fit properly! Looks like it might work well to boot!

[eightiesflamer]

Custom made leads, radiator and slim line fan in, remote oil filter and cooler plumbed in,

[knightrider150]

i love this car

[Purplebargeken]

It looks stunning and seems to fit really, really well. The quality of the build is frankly amazing. Can't wait to see it in the flesh. TDCIR only a couple of weeks away, loads of time to get it finished, mot'd and on show

Keep up the good work

[eightiesflamer]

Club stock stub axle ford pins

New alloy ford hubs

New rear custom drive flanges

[Neil907]

Shiny