sprint #2 South Australia

[JPB]

Annular clutch slaves are nothing new, Ian. Indeed there's a certain FWD car with a back-to-front Dolomite engine that used one. Mind you, on one of those you could have the clutch off in a few minutes so it wouldn't have needed to be (but was) reliable.

[Carledo]

I thought long and hard before using the annular slave in my Omega gearbox but the only alternative was a bodge or a cable conversion. I bit the bullet, fitted a new annular slave (not cheap, includes bearing and nearly £70) and am delighted with the result, using a new Toledo master and a modded Omega pipe the clutch is light yet positive and I expect to get many happy years out of it! Steve

[xvivalve]

Revington TR produced an annular clutch slave kit for the TR5 and 6 (exactly the same 'box with shorter input shaft) when I had my TR6...I was always tempted...but could never afford it!

[straylight]

rear main crankshaft oil seal replaced. Flywheel cleaned and put back on, torqued up correctly. Managed to shear a bolt putting the clutch back on but found I could get just enough leverage on the stub to turn it out easily. It pays to have everything clean and able to be finger tightened, it was a replacement bolt as I could only find 5 of the 6 and I obviously didn't choose a high tensile version. Fixed now.

Oil pump next, cleaned it up, found the relief spring to be 50.18mm long, much, much longer than the book value. There was also a mystery washer in between the relief piston and circlip, obviously someone wanting to run higher oil pressure. Parts ordered.

Then onto the water pump as I make my way forward. The pictures tell the story here, which is explained a bit more in the resurrected jonners slant 4 water pump howto thread (viewtopic.php?p=209497#p209497). This is like a tragedy in slow motion...








replacement.

at least I didn't drop the pump, just had at it with a hammer

stu

[sprint95m]

Good work getting the water pump out. I welded a LH bolt to a slide hammer to make an effective tool.
New impellors are available from Rimmer Bros for the earlier 6 vane type.

Is the pump on the left from a Stag?
I haven't seen that type of cage before and thought that Stag pumps are not interchangeable with slant four versions?

It is very naughty to run engines without antifreeze since said antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors.




Given what you found re the modified oil pump pressure relief spring, I would suggest it is now the time to assess the
front jackshaft bearing for wear. In (Triple Tango aka Triplecustard) Roy's restoration of his Sprint he had to get this repaired.
I think MikeyB also encountered a similar problem.

[straylight]

thanks Ian, hmmm, it could be a stag waterpump, it came with the bits for the "spare" sprint engine, but that is not a lot to go by.

I might whip out the 1850 pump that I know is pouring water from the pump slot. A job that has to be done anyway.

Thanks for the tip on the jackshaft, that will be the next job as I work around the engine.

I couldn't find the torque for the rear main crankshaft oil seal plate, book says it exists, but I couldn't seem to find it in the data section.

The welder is next to useless I think. Both the machine and the operator ! The feed is so irregular that all it can do is erratic spot welds. While welding I'm either left in darkness waiting for the wire to feed or getting 1 second of flash. I'm Using a cheap auto dimming helmet. Time to pull the feed mechanism apart if I'm to get serious with it.

stu

[straylight]

more fun today.

Using the vice as a press and some spare water pipe as a holder I managed to break the rest of the impeller off, leaving the remainder stuck firmly to the shaft

I then resorted to using the dremel to cut a slice of pie out of the remnants of the impeller. I then drilled the last connecting bit out before shearing it apart with a cold chisel. Brutal, but it came off and didn't damage the pump parts. It was on very tightly.

cleaned and reassembled the lot using a spare kit I found. 3/4" drive sockets to the rescue as makeshift special tools to act as holders.

I've run into problems with the water flinger though. The last thing to go on before the graphite seal spring assembly thing. The instructions state it seals on the shoulder of the shaft, but mine is rattling around free to turn. Suggestions ?

stu

[Jon Tilson]

It should grip on the slightly wider part of the spindle as you tap it down with a tubular drift. It doest go as far as the oil seal obviously....

Not a difficult bit to get turned up on a lathe at a local shop if yours is not re-useable.

Jonners

[straylight]

thanks jonners, can you confirm that what I am holding in my hand is the water flinger please. Can you also confirm which way in it is supposed to go. The whole "dish faces" thing in the workshop manual is doing my head in.



some history of the saga so far:


pushing off the old (now broken) impeller, resulted in...


an even more broken impeller. Which needed action with the dremel cutting disk...


to eventually create enough clearance so I could press it out

It has been a middling week actually. Had loits of time to work on the car and initially made good progress, but got bogged down with the pump. Turned my attention to the clutch hydraulics only to find the master cylinder would not give up the piston inside. High pressure air had no effect, tried to set it up to push out the piston using hydraulics (pushing on the slave), which got brake fluid everywhere. Then broke an air gun fitting reverting back to the air method (jubilee clip to fit the air nozzle to the pipe to ensure no air could escape). Eventually persisted and after 30 or so back and forths, she released. Just a very tight fit around the end of the cylinder (and yes, I had removed the circlip !). Good news is the bore is mirror smooth, unlike the slave.

Then, I managed to lose the bit off the clutch master cylinder I had been carefully keeping to get it TiG welded back on. The mounting flange snapped off while it was being removed from the car. I tore the workshop apart trying to find it, emptied out the bins (wheelie bins), went through them with a fine toothed comb twice, but no luck at all. Thoroughly swept out the bench area, cleaned everything hoping to find it fallen behind a bench, grrrr. That was an exercise that lasted the best part of a day. I'll see what the lads at the engineering place can do to fabricate it back up.

At least the workspace is tidy again.

stu

[Mad Mart]

Stu, that looks similar to a water flinger but looks a bit thicker...



The one on the left is the correct way up.

Edit: You can just about make out the sequence here:-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9eawN4xNVA

[Jon Tilson]

looks like a home made one that has too big a middle....as well as being on the thick side.

Marts pics are what you want......outer dish points down towards the bearing, inner raised lip points at the impellor end.



Jon

[Mad Mart]

looks like a home made one that has too big a middle....as well as being on the thick side.

Indeed, it should be a tight fit on the shaft.

[straylight]

thanks, excellent information. Seems I need to ferret around for a water flinger then. There is a number stamped on the one in the pic, "DR 6272 USA", so it looks like someone has made a substitution. With the inside of my dish pointing down, it doesn't make contact with the shaft shoulder.

the other pump shaft is missing the cage entirely !

I've also found this strange water pump fitted to the engine:



I feel like I've spent the week breaking stuff, losing stuff and generally being ham fisted.

but, should be taking sprint #1 on a 1000km round trip to a small place called balaklava today and tomorrow, so something to look foward to. Nice windy road at the back of the Adelaide Hills too !

thanks again for the help.

stu

[Mad Mart]

Stu, you've got water pumps on the brain, that's a fuel pump.

Standard issue I believe. Long arm with spacer as opposed to short arm with no spacer.

[straylight]

you were quick to jump on that.

cool, haven't seen that type before.

stu