The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Spunkymonkey wrote: You should add up the maximum load on each fuse (if everything that runs off them is on) and add about 50% to avoid nuisance blows. So, say you've got your dipped beams and interior light on one fuse, that'll be 2x 55 Watt + 1x 5 Watt bulbs = 115 Watts = about 10 amps at 12v. Add 50% gives a 15A fuse for that circuit.

Or do what I did when I put it on to blade fuses. Turn *everything* on, then starting at the smallest fuse work your way up until they stop blowing

Steve

Mad Mart wrote:If your fuse(s) keep blowing then there is a problem somewhere. You need to ascertain when the fuse is blowing.

Hmmmmm, that is a very good point indeed... I did think of that but it doesn't seem like there is a 'constant' that occurs when my fuse blows...

I just don't understand why, after 4 perfectly operating years in my ownership it has started to play up over the last couple of months?! I've added nothing and I've taken nothing away...!!!

I will try a 17amp fuse to see if that works better than the 35amp fuse I've been using...

What a conundrum...!!!!!!!!!

The fuses are 17 amp continuous rating, and 35A blow.

grifterkid wrote:

Mad Mart wrote:If your fuse(s) keep blowing then there is a problem somewhere. You need to ascertain when the fuse is blowing.

Chapter & verse on car fuses here.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive)

In the same way that if you go to the quack with guts ache he can make an informed decision on what might be wrong; but its nature's way of saying " Yoo-hoo ; something is not right "
In the same way a "sparky" would look at a fuse blowing syndrome as saying " Something is not right here " .

Which fuse is it that keeps blowing ? Bearing in mind that not every circuit is fused on the Triumph.

My guess would be on the IGN ON fuse, with these typical currents.

Voltage stabiliser for instruments 250mA *
Heater motor 3A
Stop lights 3.5A
Tacho 250mA
Seatbelt switch 250mA
Indicators 3A
HRW 10A
Windscreen washers 1A*
Windscreen wipers 2 A
Reverse lamp 3.5A
O/D switch 2A

* = estimate.
Potential maximum current here is 28.75 A but in normal running it won't be anything like this.
i.e reverse lamp and indicators on together with the washers is not a good user case.
But switching current of filament bulbs is a lot higher for a very short while.
Can you say what causes the fuse to blow ?
If it is blowing randomly then I'd be having a careful look around grommet holes where the wiring passes through the bodywork.
As usual if you have overdrive fitted the gearbox loom is a favourite wire chafing-through-point.
HTH,
Tony.

MIG Wielder wrote:Which fuse is it that keeps blowing ? Bearing in mind that not every circuit is fused on the Triumph...

The fuse that keeps blowing is the top one on my 'fuse board' which controls quite a lot of essential stuff such as the indicators, brake lights, the wipers and the petrol gauge but to name a few things...!!!

I will have to have a look at the condition of the wiring itself but I cannot see anything at a glance that would cause any maladies so I'm just a tad confused as to why this keeps happening...

It does not happen regularly and I cannot pinpoint what actual 'thing' is causing the fuse/circuit to go mental as it were!!! It is hard to find a common theme that could lead me to the actual problem...

Darn it...!

Also have a look around the peddle area. Sometimes a wire can be trapped by the clutch or brake peddles. A favourite is the wiring in the O/D switch on the gearstick (if you have O/D).

No O/D on my humble little Toledo sir...!!! That's a top tip about looking around the pedals though so I will have to peek... I'm going to put one of the original Lucas 17amp fuses in this evening (which I wanted to save!) and see how things go...!!!

As Mart says the overdrive wire chaffing in the gearstick is a common cause of the green fuse blowing.
Its so common that I expanded my fuse box and put it on a separate fuse.

The prime suspects are your reversing light switch, your heater motor and the wipers park thingy.

You will blow a few fuses unless you can identify which circuit is the problem.

Happy to help, but you seem to have forgotten the way.

Jonners

This is my solution to temporarily fusing the circuits separately.
I have 3 of these made up in the spares box. The free end goes to the fusebox tag and the output circuit connector pushes on to the the 2nd terminal of the blade fuse.
Tony.

The best ideas are always the simplest. Great stuff.

Jon Tilson wrote:Happy to help, but you seem to have forgotten the way.

Jonners

I will have to nip round to you soon sir as my Toledo 'malady list' seems to be growing all the time!!!

With regards to my fuse issue I think it may be the stereo/speakers that I have fitted (they were professionally fitted prior to my ownership) or something to do with my reverse lights...

I just want to get it all sorted so a thorough empty of detritus will take place to ensure nothing is getting knocked or snagged then I will check the relevant wires (if I can figure them out)...!

Until then it'll be another trip to Halfords for fuses I suppose!!!

Quick update...!!

It's the reverse lights that are blowing my fuse and I need to sort it! They are the Wipac units as fitted to all (I think) the late model Toledo's...

So, where do In look and what the heck do I do...?!?!?!

Thanks to you all for your help and advice...

I'm pretty sure the Toledo loom doesn't include reverse light wiring so anything in there will be aftermarket special! All there will be is an ignition live feed from the fusebox which then goes via a switch on top of the gearbox to the lights at the rear and thence to earth. There are plenty of places for the wire to snag, my favourite is where it goes through the rear bulkhead behind the back seat. And ensure the lamps are not full of water, that's another goodie! For quickest results, find the wire on the fusebox that feeds them (by elimination if necessary) and simply disconnect it! This will solve your immediate problem and let you tackle it at your leisure!

Steve

That is indeed what I intend to do sir...!!! I just need to find the blasted wire/connection...

First choice is one that ISN'T green. I fitted a few of these back in the day, on PDIs and there was a "kit" for doing it, ISTR that the wire was red with a yellow trace but it was a long time ago and I may be mistaken!

Steve