I've never had any trouble removing steering wheels It might be worth putting some WD40 or similar down the splines the night before removing though.
As for the rattle it's just a case of listening around for it and hitting things until it shuts up. You'll never get rid of them all! Just make the engine louder or turn up the radio!
In a word no...
You need the special Churchill puller to get any Triumph hub off the shaft.
Messing about with any of the leggy types will just bend the hub flanges unless you are very lucky.
The Churchill type clamps to the flange and keeps it all square and will have it off in a jiffy...
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
Took a closer look for the source of this dashboard/footwell rattle at idle. Still perplexed, but not intending to pull out the parcel shelf etc until the weekend. BUT I did discover the rattle dies down if I push the brake pedal. Anyone else experienced something like this in the past?
Re the steering, the lower bush looks fine so will investigate higher up the column first.
Essexwriter wrote:Took a closer look for the source of this dashboard/footwell rattle at idle. Still perplexed, but not intending to pull out the parcel shelf etc until the weekend. BUT I did discover the rattle dies down if I push the brake pedal. Anyone else experienced something like this in the past?
Re the steering, the lower bush looks fine so will investigate higher up the column first.
Cheers,
Ben
Have a listen to the servo, mine rattles a bit at idle. It could also be the pivot pin the connects the pedal to the rod.
Dolly-Nut wrote: Have a listen to the servo, mine rattles a bit at idle. It could also be the pivot pin the connects the pedal to the rod.
I think you may have cracked it. I've only had a quick inspection, but it does seem to be the most likely culprit - if I push the rubber seal from inside the footwell, it seems to die down a little. I don't fancy mucking about with it, though, so I think I'll just have to live with it for the time being.
Sorry for the idiot question, but how often do you recommend changing oil in the Toledo? I've just realised I've done about 2,500 miles since the beginning of December. Nearly time for a change?
(Totally off topic. Watching programme about the Tube, with talk about sulphur fumes in the tunnels. Does anyone else remember being told as a kid that Tarmac fumes were good for your lungs?)
I have a spare Toledo servo for sensible money if you're interested.
Steve
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!
Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.
Essexwriter wrote:Sorry for the idiot question, but how often do you recommend changing oil in the Toledo? I've just realised I've done about 2,500 miles since the beginning of December. Nearly time for a change?
I'd go every 4k with a decent oil and anti-drain filter but a lot of people change at 3k and some even under that.
For an incentive to change you oil regularly check out what happens when you don't...
1976 Triumph Dolomite 1850HL"Trevor, the Tenaciously Terrible Triumph" - Rotten as a pear and dissolving into a field in rural Aberdeenshire. 1977 Triumph Dolomite 1300"Daisy, the Dilapidated Dolomite of Disaster" - Major resto, planned for completion 2021. 1983 Triumph Acclaim L"Angus, the Arguably Adequate Acclaim - On the road as a daily driver.
If your indicators are cancelling in the wrong place turning the steering wheel will not help.
At some time someone has relaced one of the lower column joints and not lined everything up again, difficult job as the retaining bolts for the flexible coupling are at 90 degrees to each other which means the steering has to be turned to undo them.
If you remove the bolts from the flexible coupling, reset the wheels to straight, slide the coupling up the shaft (usualy easier said than done), turn the steering wheel staight then refit the coupling and bolts everything should line up, usually at the 3rd or 4th attempt!
Some of my Toledos have rattled from the servo; it is the non-return valve that is faulty, which is the white plastic thing that the hose goes to, from the inlet manifold. No need for a replacement servo.
neil brown wrote:If your indicators are cancelling in the wrong place turning the steering wheel will not help.
At some time someone has relaced one of the lower column joints and not lined everything up again, difficult job as the retaining bolts for the flexible coupling are at 90 degrees to each other which means the steering has to be turned to undo them.
If you remove the bolts from the flexible coupling, reset the wheels to straight, slide the coupling up the shaft (usualy easier said than done), turn the steering wheel staight then refit the coupling and bolts everything should line up, usually at the 3rd or 4th attempt!
Difficult job? I might pass that one on to a professional
triumphtoledo wrote:Some of my Toledos have rattled from the servo; it is the non-return valve that is faulty, which is the white plastic thing that the hose goes to, from the inlet manifold. No need for a replacement servo.
R
Thanks for that. Is it worth taking the valve off and giving it a clean up before trying a replacement?
I tried giving the valve a twist to see if that would make a difference, but it didn't - wishful thinking on my part.
It might be worth putting some WD40 or similar down the splines the night before removing though.
