The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

There have been a few issues with the "new" crank seals leaking. I try and use NOS ones.
There is a guy in cyprus who often puts NOS ones on ebay at good prices.

I think the issue is with the spring tension. I have compared some old ones with a "new" and found the "new" ones a bit lacking in tension, so used a NOS one last time I replaced one on a TR7 lump.

Jonners

Quick up date - All done and dusted - just waiting re-fitment into engine bay.

I have had some bits re-plated: rear engine plate, rear cover cylinder head + lifting eye.


Bell housing has been cleaned


Flywheel cleaned up nicely


Pressure & clutch plate ready for fitment.




Adapter plate ready for fitting


All finished


NOTE: New down pipe to fit Inc. refurbish exhaust manifold - all painted in black HR.

Regards
Paul

Very nice Paul. Just a note, I can't tell from the first pic but did you use spring washers with those bolts? They should be fitted without as there isn't much clearance between the bolt heads and the flywheel. Just checking.

Thank Martin

I did consider adding spring washer to the set screws to retain the rear engine plate as I could not see a torque value for these set screws in the manual - but like you said there is limited clearance between the head and the reverse side of the flywheel - so "NO" spring washers were added but I checked the torque for a 5/16" UNF set screws - 20 Lbsft, so I used a nominal value of 22 Lbsft slightly high than the nominal setting.

Regards
Paul

I know its Grandma suck eggs but do use some thread loctite on those flywheel bolts as they go through to the oil.

What do you guys use?

On a TR7 flywheel the holes in the end plate are countersunk and the setscrews are countersunk cross heads.
They cant be done up that tight by nature of the cross head driving limitation. I give them a couple of taps with
the impact driver.

The TR7 flywheel is a tad thicker than a Sprint one.

On an 1850 I think they have spring washers buts its ages since I did one now....

Note for any auto watchers is that the bolt position is different on an auto else the securing bolts for the torque converter
foul the end plate bolts too. This was a major time waste for me some 18 months ago....

TJ is I'm sure right but Ive never used loctite and never had an issue so I guess I must be lucky or the oil seepage is
minimal enough not to notice...or maybe that explains why on my Sprint the driven plate sticks to the flywheel after
very short periods of inactivity. Did that one about 25 years ago....


Jonners

Good one Jonners I guess I am paranoid as the thought of all that work because a thread let some oil through

Re the washer behind the engine plate bolts. I have just rebuilt an engine that a Puzzle co built and they used washers (amongst other mistakes) and the scrape marks were plain to see on the back of the flywheel, it must have screeched when the clutch was depressed
but hey not so depressed as the poor owner as he quit on it and that is how I got it.

I've heard many a crossword with that puzzle company!

Isn't that little plate what goes between the flywheel and bolts the wrong way fitted?

Jeroen

Can we please keep this on topic rather than discussing the previously mentioned specialist? Paul shouldn't have any problems as he's putting back what was previously on the car. This talk of bolt heads fouling the flywheel and Jonners' problems he had with an auto had me thinking back to when my flexplate broke on my 1850 back in September 2011. I couldn't find any torques for the flexplate so I used the figures for the flywheel bolts instead. The only time issues would crop us is with a TR7 conversion due to the various differences (countersunk screws for the black plate, etc) or if somebody has taken on a "problem" engine like Jon has.

Paul, is the engine back in the car yet?

Toledo Man wrote:Can we please keep this on topic rather than discussing the previously mentioned specialist? Paul shouldn't have any problems as he's putting back what was previously on the car. This talk of bolt heads fouling the flywheel and Jonners' problems he had with an auto had me thinking back to when my flexplate broke on my 1850 back in September 2011. I couldn't find any torques for the flexplate so I used the figures for the flywheel bolts instead. The only time issues would crop us is with a TR7 conversion due to the various differences (countersunk screws for the black plate, etc) or if somebody has taken on a "problem" engine like Jon has.

Paul, is the engine back in the car yet?

Wow That was on topic!

Jeroen

Hope this is on topic and the engine is not in the car yet, it is hard to see in your picture but i think the plate is fitted the wrong way. The bulge has to be towards the cranckshaft to retain the spigot bush. It is not all clear to see in your picture but if it is fitted the wrong way the splines of the gearbox input shaft can tough this little plate. Jeroen

Jeron

I see what you mean and it did cross my mind whether it should be the other way around - it was but back as I found it



Paul

The locating dowels for the clutch cover might be a big giveaway...

Here is the relevant page from the parts catalogue.

Ok that is the wrong way.