The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

There was a folded A4 sheet of instructions with the chassis rail telling you if necessary to cut a small triangle out of the side to allow you to then position it with the subframe mount...

xvivalve wrote:There was a folded A4 sheet of instructions with the chassis rail telling you if necessary to cut a small triangle out of the side to allow you to then position it with the subframe mount...

No probs didn't see it must of missed it in my haste to open parcel, other half binned the wrappings. have you a pic incase i put it back to normal cheers

Managed to finish fitting the chassis leg and finished patching the floor where i cut the rot out, will have to patch the other one up as its out of stock,





also trial fitted the sill and think it looks ok, do you think i need to fit the doors to line it up or not,



also how would people weld this section as i dont want to run a weld across the join, which only leaves 2 options either from down the inside rear wing with a series of holes aka spot welds or from underneath similar method, also from a M.O.T point of view does the rest of the sill need to be seam welded or can i spot it



I noticed the shape of the sill is a tad different from the original they seem to have an extra lip for some reason or have i missed something else from my a4 instructions,
can't really tell what i mean from this pic



might grind it off as it will make fitting easier and also i can only see it collecting road grime to aid rotting,

You can spot or plug weld along the bottom edge since thats how it was done from factory. The top edge should be seamed since there was not a seam there originally. However if you plug weld it neatly and add a smear of filler, who's to know? Regarding the extra lip, cut all or most of it off! I don't know why its there either but it serves no useful purpose. A lot of pattern sill covers have one but i've no idea why.

Steve

PS, If you still want that nosecone i'll get you a carriage price, it kinda slipped my mind!

cheers got a bit to go before final fitment waiting for some metal to be folded,
R.E. front panel yeah still need it m8 i also forgot to get a price if you get a price ill do same from work and compare, have you got my address cheers

Yep, still have your address, i'll try and sort it this week.

Steve

You definitely want the door on to get the cill gap right.

I've seen the results on a car where the cill was fitted and then the door put back on. It wasn't pretty.

Jonners

Carledo wrote: Regarding the extra lip, cut all or most of it off! I don't know why its there either but it serves no useful purpose. A lot of pattern sill covers have one but i've no idea why.

Dont cut it off! Bend it over the inner sill lip in a similar manner to a door skin, then you can seam weld the resulting lap joint on the inside of the inner sill, where its out of sight. Makes a much stronger and neater joint, and ensures the new sill is dead straight when you look down the lip. Also you have not then got exposed layers of metal that capillary action will draw water in to, no matter how well you seal it.
Fitted a pair of club sills in this manner - and they look great.
Matt.

Bending it over was why the fabricator insisted on making them with the additional flange. I always saw it as a water trap and tried for ages to get him to make them without, telling him everyone cuts it off anyway. Eventually he agreed to make a batch without the additional flange, but he made them with it on...and then cut them off with his guillotine in a rather rough manner! The last three were so rough I couldn't send them out, so now I let him make them his way and you guys have the choice!!

...and yes, doors on when aligning the cill. No question!!

Cheers for reply's/advice I think I might bend it over as my angle grinding straight lines aren't very good, as long as I can seal it i'll be happy

Managed to do a bit more on the Toledo today, ended up getting the reinforcer and floor repair piece cut and bent from a local fab shop and redoing the dimple die's,



cut some rust out and patched up from rear of sill first



Trial fit



Then welded in and red oxide





Got the ends to patch up and hopefully have the sill fitted tomorrow, gonna need a new door card as well as I put the door back on and it got a bit melted wilst welding the sill rienforcer

Onwards and upwards, made up the inner wheel arch where it meets the rear of the cill and added a jacking point from some box section, will get some plastic bung's for them from the steel stockholder on my next visit,








I wasn't planning on removing the wings so wasn't expecting to repair this section but the wings are gonna have to come of to sort the front panel, so with only buying short sills I made a repair piece, first I cut the old section out then put a cut down the bend and then hammer'd it flat so I could use it as a template to make the piece then welded into place, also added another box section for the front jacking point









what have other members done when replacing sills with short ones regards mating them up with the end of the sill under the front wing if that makes sense?



Hopefully will finally be able to fit the sill tomorrow then I get to do it all again on the other side

Never got around to fitting the sill but made a start on the n/s sill which is no where near as bad as the o/s, I reckon I only need to repair the front and the rear of the sill the rest is pretty much rust free and intact

A bit more over the weekend on the n/s sill, hindsight's a wonderful thing as if id have checked the front of the sill under the wing I'd have bought a full sill instead don't thing club do them tho, but then where would the fun be in that






Anyone know what this captive nut is for there is one on each corner just before jacking point, makes no difference now as they've gone with the repair but just curious