The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hehe, many thanks Steve - that drg is awesome and the flow arrows make everything make a hell of a lot more sense!!

We've made a monumental step forward, thank you!...now I can get on with building the cooling system! Happy days!

Any ideas on this jobby.....http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-TKC1242U ?

Ps - I can understand the comment about the pump being modern, but as it is black and will be almost out of sight, I don't mind it so much...the newish Volvo header tank being all white and green plastic would stick out a bit too much I think...I've spotted a few tanks on the net for about 30 odd quid so that's not far off one of the Volvo ones....

pps - as all my drgs were wrong, in the interests of size on the server etc., I'll delete them from this thread

shaunroche wrote:Good - is that this one from off a TR7 that Rimmer's are alluding to? http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-TKC1242U It will fit a Sprint head then?

No it does not fit.

shaunroche wrote:

sprint95 wrote:No, you should retain the thermostat housing plumbing as it is. This is important because changing it will make it more difficult to bleed the cooling system.

Awesome.

E - Thermo piping: Final hose tail on thermo housing is blanked off.

No. please don't do that....as I have said already,
It is important to retain this hose from the top of the radiator to the thermostat housing since this is how the radiator is bled during filling.


Ian.

Hi Ian, so the layout as we have it now is sound, plus the addition of a pipe from the 3rd hose port to the little inlet on the top of the rad?

The only solution for the back of the head then is to drill a hole in the plate and put a bulkhead connector/elbow in then?

I've never understood why a Sprint has 2 top hoses, especially since the second one feeds into the "cold" end of the crossflow rad (this is the same design as the Saab one so no problem there) I guess in the name of tidiness alone it would be an idea to connect the 3rd outlet on the stat housing to the neck on the o/s top of the rad, it could help prevent airlocking in the very top of the rad, I can't see it myself since the rad will be level in the car and the tophose neck (L/H/S) is at the top of the rad so it should bleed through that, You would need a very odd hose to do it because of the disparity in sizes, or you could consider having a 3 neck header (Cavalier IIIs have these, amongst others) and running the rad fitting to the header or tee into the pipe from stat housing to header.
There that's confused everything nicely, just when we thought we'd agreed!
The TKC1242U plate is (I think) the one you want, Ian says it doesn't fit an 1850 and I believe him, but I'm reasonably sure it fits a Sprint head, I'll do some checking and get back to you, it has just occurred to me that it may be a special one needed for TR7 Sprint (a much rarer car) There is still a removeable plate on the back of the head which is thick enough to be drilled and tapped and an elbow fitted anyway and this would solve it.

Steve

Hehe, it's never straight forward is it!?

I'm not sure about this top hose business, but I'm ok with the idea of putting a fitting in the head plate providing I know where abouts on the plate to put it!

Cheers for the continued help fella's!

Have just been trawling through Tony Burds restoration thread (MSO 662P in the resto section) On page 10 is a picture of the plate he used and its from a TR7 Sprint so may be hard to find. But it gives you an idea of what to do and where to put it! Later on, page 14 and later are several shots of hose runs you may find useful, his car is very like yours, except he has kept the stock water pump which only alters the position of the heater return, but he has the Saab rad and Weber/Dellortos. He hasn't bothered with the third pipe on the stat housing and the car has been fine, on the road for nearly 2 years now.

Steve

Cheers Steve - I knew I'd seen that somewhere but couldn't find it!

Tony sent me some of those pics so I should have remembered about the third, blanked port....at least now I know where about's to weld the elbow into!

Edit

Look what I've found!



http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RB7240

Think I can probably make one cheaper....£37 + £25 surcharge + vat + postage.....

shaunroche wrote:Cheers Steve - I knew I'd seen that somewhere but couldn't find it!

Tony sent me some of those pics so I should have remembered about the third, blanked port....at least now I know where about's to weld the elbow into!

Edit

Look what I've found!



http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RB7240

Think I can probably make one cheaper....£37 + £25 surcharge + vat + postage.....

Ouch! Rimmers certainly know how to bear down on the pen! And the surcharge, which I assume is refundable means they want yours back so someone can spend an hour and about 20p converting that to sell for umpteen quid! Do it yourself mate!!!!

Steve

Hi chaps! Just ordered the water pump with electronic controller and an electric fan so could do with some advice on which water pipes I could do with ordering please! I know I will need to build them up with connectors but am pretty clueless when it comes to angles and diameters....any ideas please?

I think you will need to decide on the location of the EWP first?

In the meantime, I can confirm the following...
Saab 9-3 radiator top left and bottom are 35mm, top right is 11mm.

Thermostat housing is 32mm, 16mm and either 6mm (early) or 8mm (late)
Water pump cover is 32mm.
Heater is 13mm.



Ian.

Cheers for the reply Ian....it will be going close to where the battery would be...identical to where Mad Mart's is I guess.....

Is that not rather too high up?

That would make its position roughly at the same relative height as the original mechanical pump.
It is desirable to have the pump as low as possible I understand, because it relies on gravity to supply it. (This being so
whether or not a header tank is used to supply the bottom hose.)

I have yet to fit an EWP but am intending fitting one behind the engine mounting bracket, which is in other words,
where the bottom radiator hose is currently.




Ian.

Your positioning is what I intend... I just didn't explain it very well!

I take it the dims are outside diameters of the pipes involved, so if I order a 13id hose for the heater we'll be ok type of thing?

Any idea what size the brake servo pipe is btw?

The dimensions I quoted are the hose bore sizes needed, that is the way they are sold......

as an example,
if you need to join two hoses of a given size, say 32mm then you use a 32mm joiner.


When buying silicone hoses it is important to note that these are not all the same spec,
some are three ply or 5 ply reinforcement and the wall thickness varies quite a bit too.
Of the ones I have seen, Venair, ASH and RMD are the better ones.
Whereas Silicon.com are rubbish, even allowing for their lesser price tag.

For hose clips I will only use JCS nowadays. An example of quality British manufacturing.



Ian.


PS I don't know what the servo hose size is. When I last bought one I think I got it from either Winns or Fitchetts already cut to length.

If I can find the receipt I will scan it so you can see what I bought, mine are ASH from an ebay seller, will look tonight.