The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

This is from what I remember from my days of owning the OHV cars:

The starter motor, flywheel & clutch cover need to be matched to each other.
The clutch plate needs to be matched to the gearbox because of the splines on the input shaft.

The Dolly 1300 would have orginally had an inertia starter motor with a separate solenoid (mounted on the OS inner wing or strut tower IIRC). The Dolly 1500 had a pre-engaged starter. Spacers for the starter motor may be required. For this to work, you need to know what parts were for what cars originally.

Hope this helps any...

This just keeps getting worse.
When I purchased the RAC 801 high torque starter I was told that the main benefit of this starter apart from extremely high torque and cranking power was the fact that the main flange with the two fixing holes was adjustable by removing the two allen screws that held it in place and turning the flange round to a more suitable point and re-fixing to other multiple choice fixing holes in the plate. As the main battery terminal was almost touching the fuel pump I did just this. What I didn't realise was that by doing this I was also turning the cone round that sits inside the bell housing. The cone has approx. 1/3 of it cut away to expose the gear on the end. Turning it round by about 20 degrees(ish) caused the cone to foul the flywheel ring gear.
It took me ages and 3 spacers to work this out so in the end I turned it back a little and dremmelled the open part of the nose cone out a bit. I called the manufacturers and informed them of this and they said "aaaah yes of course we didn't appreciate that problem". Frustrating or what!!
It's on now and the engine turns over as if there are no plugs in it. Oil light went out in seconds so I guess I am ready to actually start it up now.
The O/D gearbox to exhaust bracket that I have just acquired fits on the gearbox but not the exhaust. My original bracket fit on the exhaust but not the gearbox. Chopped both brackets in half and welded them together and "hey presto" I now have an exhaust to gearbox bracket that fits. Doesn't look pretty though.
I am away next week so probably won't get anything done but I am nearly there (I hope).
Oh this is so much fun..........

Neil.

OK thanks everyone for their help. The starter is now fine but needs wiring altered a bit as I don't need the solenoid on the inner wing now as the starter has it's own. Temporarily connected all main positives on same connection and moved starter control wire from old solenoid to new starter. I need to acquire a long battery + lead to go direct to the starter. Engine runs well but overdrive will only work in top gear and very very occasionally in third. I have replaced the inhibitor switch but maybe it's the wrong one. Overdrive on top makes a BIG difference to the car and it handles it quite well as long as you are not going up any kind of gradient.
Had a very bad oil leak at first but this was sorted by putting a felt washer on the dip-stick, as mine was gone!
Just trundling around now running it in for a few hundred miles then will re-torque the head.

I will try to post some re-stove enamelled standard dolly wheels that I have for sale.

Neil.

Most overdrive problems are either electrical or due to low gearbox oil level. Whatever you do DON'T use any additives in your gearbox oil. These will lunch your overdrive. Sounds like you're getting there.

You can just use a short link wire with the existing battery lead and solenoid. I know not ideal having 2 solenoids, but if you ling the main cable on the starter to its own solenoid (I used 17A cable, plenty) it will work just fine.
Alternatively until you get the new cable, bypass the old solenoid by bolting both leads to the same terminal.

Yes that's how I have it now, all + wires on the one connection of old solenoid (battery + and starter + under the same nut and alternator + connected too as original). I couldn't leave it fully functional as it was sticking in after key released. It's not even a year old but it's typical of all the stuff I buy for my Triumphs these days. Modern reproduction stuff is basically rubbish.
I have a long battery lead now but too busy until next week to sort it out.
My overdrive problem is a faulty or incorrect inhibitor switch. It will only operate in top and won't make the circuit in third. I don't really mind this as I only want overdrive for top gear to give the car longer legs. It does that very well.

Neil.

2000dollystag wrote:Y
My overdrive problem is a faulty or incorrect inhibitor switch. It will only operate in top and won't make the circuit in third. I don't really mind this as I only want overdrive for top gear to give the car longer legs. It does that very well.

Neil.

Assuming the 1300 O/D is similar to the Sprint item there is an adjustment for the inhibitor switch on the selector mechanism. Both the reverse and overdrive switches are fitted with 2 fibre washers between the switch and the selector mechanism. The workshop manual has a section where to get reliable operation of the switches this can be reduced to 1 fibre washer. It also recommends new washers.
Page 86-25 of the Sprint manual has details.
Tony.

I'll have a look. Thanks.
Neil.

I've also come across the DH Y engine number and have had a delve...

The 'Y' bit means that the engine was fitted to a car supplied to the British School of Motoring for learner cars.

According to the Dolomite parts book, 1300 Dollys supplied to BSM were fitted with the larger 1500 Dolomite-spec clutch (GCP230). The flywheel for the BSM cars is part number TKC1840, which I think is the Spitfire 1500 type flywheel that would allow the use of the inertia starter motor. BL, therefore, did not have to alter the wiring and supply a more expensive starter system to the BSM Dolomite 1300s.

Despite using the 1500 Dolomite/Spitfire clutch, the BSM 1300cc flywheel is different to those fitted the standard 1500/1500HL Dolomites (TKC 1839) and 1300 Dolly (UKC 4360).

R

How on earth did you find that out?
That explains why I have a spitty 1500 flywheel?
My starter problems were because I tried to refit my inertia type starter.
I hate mysteries like that one and thank you for the information. I would love to know how you found out.
Neil.

Dolly 1300.
Stag now in hibernation in a barn with 3 rally cortinas and 3 mark 1 escorts but the stag doesn't mind slumming it.
2000 has a new rear arch and back light panel.
2500 S is having a new diff.
Pi is waiting patiently for some attention.
2 Trojan bubble cars are looking for a new home. Anyone fancy a challenge? Could you handle the power once finished?

All found out through the official parts book.

However, with the passing of 35+ years, it's possible that bits get taken off and others added; your engine may have had a repalcement flywheel at some point, you never know!

R