GOO 796 N Restoration

[Jon Tilson]

I agree guys that the modern mobile phone typically has a good camera but
when taking restoration type shots you do need to have it well lit. Mine is a bit prone to flare as well.
I also used to use a 35mm Olympus OM1 which I used for mostly slide film. Long time since I shot my last roll
though.

You just cant beat the convenience of digital, and if its a crap shot, just delete and do it again. I used to reckon myself
a reasonable photo composer compared with some family members who would regularly cut heads off or have stupid
background articles like wheelie bins but even I got depressed at the poor picture rate with films, which of course you still
had to pay for.

Digital is definitely the way to go Nigel, mobile phone or not.

[James467]

Ah yes, but films teach you how to be a better photographer because you only have that one shot which can't be deleted!

[Karlos]

Why not buy a cheap digital camera so you can record your restoration AND share it with others on the forum? You could get one for a tenner off ebay!

No no no no no no!! As an amateur photographer for the love of god pleeeeease don't buy a £10 eBay camera, the lenses are really rubbish!

Yes yes. I definitely agree it is all about the lens, but a used camera is just as capable as a phone with camera, try something like a Canon IXUS 70 or 80 or higher, admittedly they go for around £25 not £10. More than adequate for shots of greasy ball joints, etc. They are not exactly 'glamour' shots are they? It will be more cost effective than using film and a bit simpler to transfer the images to an online forum too!

I still have a Box Brownie No.2.

[Dolly-Dimple]

Fantastic Nigel, having read your other post I'm really looking forward to the updates and any period / up to date photos you may have kind regards Russell

Photographs are likely to very sporadic, as I don't photograph everything and I only have my 35 mm colour-reversal film processed, once I get to the end of a roll.

Russell, you're not so far from my childhood home in Lochee, Dundee, Angus. My nursery-school teacher used to take me to RAF Luchars in Fife, to see the English Electric Lightnings take off.

Yep, I suppose there are items that can be treated in acid as you have identified. To be honest I have always been a user of 'the tool' (wire brush), flap wheels and surface prep wheels (heavy duty scourers) they are pretty good for rust removal with limited damage to surfaces.

The methods you describe, only remove surface rust and rust-scale. They will NOT remove rust from any small-diameter pits unless your abrade away the surrounding steel, which might leave your items very thin.

FABULOUS!! I know it well as when i was at Uni i had a flat on Charleston Drive in Menzieshill and used to go to the shops at Lochee often...still haven't found anything to beat a Clarks the Bakers Pie!!

Kind Regards

Russell.

[AlanH]

The methods you describe, only remove surface rust and rust-scale. They will NOT remove rust from any small-diameter pits unless your abrade away the surrounding steel, which might leave your items very thin.

I use this for rust areas on panels (plus rust converter and wire brushes).

http://www.frost.co.uk/spot-blasting-gun.html

[MIG Wielder]

Yes yes. I definitely agree it is all about the lens, but a used camera is just as capable as a phone with camera,

I still have a Box Brownie No.2.

I quite like my old Olympus C-120 . It may only be a 2M pix unit but its big plus point is the built-in macro focus lens.
You can do this .....

macrodemo.jpg (80.33 KiB) Viewed 5356 times

[naskeet]

I think we are getting somewhat off topic, with this in depth discussion about the relative merits of various types of digital and film cameras. Perhaps it might be better to transplant those posts into a dedicated topic thread (like the appendices in my research thesis) and incorporate a link in this one.

The methods you describe, only remove surface rust and rust-scale. They will NOT remove rust from any small-diameter pits unless your abrade away the surrounding steel, which might leave your items very thin.

I use this for rust areas on panels (plus rust converter and wire brushes).

http://www.frost.co.uk/spot-blasting-gun.html

At £30 + £24 these looks like a useful rust-removal tool, but I would certainly need a MUCH cheaper alternative to their blast cabinets.

http://www.frost.co.uk/spot-blasting-gun.html

http://www.frost.co.uk/pvc-reinforced-hose.html

[naskeet]

I think we are getting somewhat off topic, with this in depth discussion about the relative merits of various types of digital and film cameras. Perhaps it might be better to transplant those posts into a dedicated topic thread (like the appendices in my research thesis) and incorporate a link in this one.

The methods you describe, only remove surface rust and rust-scale. They will NOT remove rust from any small-diameter pits unless your abrade away the surrounding steel, which might leave your items very thin.

I use this for rust areas on panels (plus rust converter and wire brushes).

http://www.frost.co.uk/spot-blasting-gun.html

At £30 + £24 these look like a useful rust-removal tool, but I would certainly need a MUCH cheaper alternative to their blast cabinets.

http://www.frost.co.uk/spot-blasting-gun.html

http://www.frost.co.uk/pvc-reinforced-hose.html

[James467]

At £30 + £24 these looks like a useful rust-removal tool, but I would certainly need a MUCH cheaper alternative to their blast cabinets.

If you want a blast cabinet, get one from eBay for £50, they are all exactly the same, you'll need a big compressor though, something that's 100l and produces at least 14cfm, for one of those you're looking at £250ish, then you need media, £100ish.

Which is why I said that it works out more cost effective to take things to your local sandblasters.

[naskeet]

At £30 + £24 these looks like a useful rust-removal tool, but I would certainly need a MUCH cheaper alternative to their blast cabinets.

If you want a blast cabinet, get one from eBay for £50, they are all exactly the same, you'll need a big compressor though, something that's 100l and produces at least 14cfm, for one of those you're looking at £250ish, then you need media, £100ish.

Which is why I said that it works out more cost effective to take things to your local sandblasters.

I'm not sure that I have a local sand blaster and it's a bit far to walk to the neighbouring towns!

[James467]

http://www.shotbeadaquablasting.co.uk/contact

There you go

[naskeet]

http://www.shotbeadaquablasting.co.uk/contact

There you go

That would be about a 25 minute fast walk from my home; but would probably take 35~40 minutes pushing the wheel barrow. I shall keep it in mind.

All I need to do now is find somewhere local that can do aluminising of cast-iron cylinder barrel fins for my VW air-cooled engine!?!

[naskeet]

In addition to removing rust, I'm also filing all corners, edges and spot-weld craters, to ensure a better paint-film thickness in these areas which are typically the first to show signs of rust.

[naskeet]

I have the opportunity to salvage some brown carpet from a late-model, 1979/80 Triumph Dolomite 1500 HL Automatic, which appear to be in better condition than some sections of my Triumph Toledo's black carpeting. I want to retain my existing exterior & interior colour scheme, so I am wondering whether it would be possible to re-colour the brown carpet using black dye of some sort?

[TrustNo1]

I have the opportunity to salvage some brown carpet from a late-model, 1979/80 Triumph Dolomite 1500 HL Automatic, which appear to be in better condition than some sections of my Triumph Toledo's black carpeting. I want to retain my existing exterior & interior colour scheme, so I am wondering whether it would be possible to re-colour the brown carpet using black dye of some sort?

Or buy a new carpet set from Coverdale?