The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Thanks guys,

Still getting it up and running so will hold off any carb rebuild until I can get it all together and running. If I do though...the links supplied look a much better option and cheaper too.

I received the tensioner from SNG the other day..hard to tell the difference other than no Rolon engraving. Its boxed in a LandRover box as well, so looks like they are common to a few engines.
Only issue I have with it is that for some reason mine came without a spring!

Ive sent SNG an e-mail with the pic of the parts missing so I`ll see what they offer to do....very strange

The fuel tank has had to come out and be repaired as it had a few pinhole leaks where the lowest point is. Fixed that by brazing the holes up, then flushing and sealing the tank with a kit. No fuel smell in the boot now which is a bonus. Whilst I was at it also replaced all rubber hoses (fuel, vacuum and water) so Im hoping I have most things covered that will have aged in the years it was stored.

Next worry is the water pump but will wait and see if any leaks appear once its full of coolant and up to temperature.

My next PITA is that bloody camcover gasket.
Does anyone make a good quality silicone or equivalent one? The thin paper type that everyone seems to supply hasnt sealed on the lower corner so keeps dropping oil on the exhaust manifold.

Final question...how do you tighten the the bolt on the underside of the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange? I can get to 2 from above, but i cant get any spanner to the one under the pipework and its blocked from underneath by the starter motor?

Any advise?

Cheers

On the cam cover gasket we get a slightly thicker card on in the uk which I tend to stick to one surface with hylomar and have grease on the other. I use allen socket headed bolts rather than the OE phillips screws which cant be done up tight enough, or of you do then they cant be undone with damage...

On the exhaust downpipe flange I can get at the bottom one with a 3/8 drive socket on a wobble bar from uderneath, but it needs to be a good one and you will find the bolt very hard to shift.

When I have the engine out with the box on various cars I do these....replace them all with a short stud and 9/16 brass nut with plain and spring washers. Then they come undone in future. It has to be quite a short stud to allow the downpipe to slide back far enough.

If its not blowing....don't touch it. If it is, just cut your losses and swing the engine box and downpipe all out together and console your self with all the jobs you can now do with the engine out of the way, like poly rack mount bushes and a good clean up and those
downpipe fittings...

You're well into this now....

Jonners