Yorkshire Triumphs

[Carledo]

The differences between auto and manual engines all bolt on, the block is the same.

Wear in the front jackshaft bearing is the No1 block killer because of the cost of repairing it. If you have trouble in the jackshaft area it might be worth looking at the spare engine first, engine cranes can be hired by the day and don't cost £40-50/hour!

Steve

[xvivalve]

They seem think that the life of these engines is such that 65000 miles would warrant a strip down.

On that basis alone, I would not go back.

[red&black]

What are the symptoms which have caused you to seek somewhere to do work on your engine?
Any noises,smoke,loss of oil/coolant or low oil pressure etc?

James

[Galileo]

They seem think that the life of these engines is such that 65000 miles would warrant a strip down.

On that basis alone, I would not go back.

Is that thinking just a historical thing maybe? My dad used to never touch anything with more than 60k miles on it back in the 70/80s when I used to go car shopping with him. His very well looked after Triumph 2000 needed the big ends doing when it hit 70k, as did my Uncles 2.5PI, though I guess the slant 4 is very much a more modern engine than the inline 6.

[AlanH]

that thinking just a historical thing maybe?

Yes I think that 65k is an historical figure it seems to ring a bell with me. I would hope that an auto would not be driven so hard but who knows.

As an update, I have talked to them again and clarified things. The 4k is an absolute maximum if the thing is totally knackered.

It is likely to cost far less than that, they will give me a better idea when they have had a look.

For instance, a cylinder head recon. would be around £500.00, not cheap but if it means that I don't have to risk trying to get it off then I'll pay it.

I will wait and see what they say.

[Karlos]

http://www.ss-preparations.co.uk
Have you tried these people, they are TR7 specialists? They were happy to give free advice, I have bought a few spares from them.
They are in Lancashire, I guess it depends how patriotic you are or if they are too far away.

[Karlos]

Just realised you are in Nottingham - so no Yorks/Lancs rivalry.

[xvivalve]

At least two of us have asked what symptoms give you/them the impression the engine needs work, but you have offered no response.

If you open up an engine, then you are sure to find things to do, even if it only those things it is false economy not to do whilst it is apart. I really don't know how they can put prices like £500 on a head recondition before the event, or even cap the cost at £4k as a worst case scenario, as they haven't a clue what they might find!

Test their current knowledge; ask them what timing chain tensioner they'll use...?

Are there any symptoms to suggest work is needed?

[AlanH]

Are there any symptoms to suggest work is needed?

It is noisy (tappety)
It seems to be running on three and a half cylinders.
There is a rattling sound when the car is going over 50 mph and I put my foot down or take it off. This can also happen when the box changes from 2nd to 3rd and I have my foot down.

I thought that the noise was down to excessive cam gaps but I have checked them and they are within spec.

I have spent a lot of time setting up the timing and the carbs. I have the basic kit for it and have done it many times before (admittedly not on an OHC.) The timing is rock solid the plugs are brown and the carbs are in balance. It is firing on all cylinders. Given that it has a very chuggy diesel type of feel. The compression on two of the cylinders is a bit down and I can't get my tester into 4. I have also changed just about all the ignition electrics.

Yorkshire triumphs do a lot of work on Stags, Pete Johnson owns one. I reasoned that if he can handle Stag engines he should be able to sort mine. He certainly seemed to know what he was doing.

I have asked elsewhere for quotes but, as yet have not heard back.

I realise that to a lot of people here using dealers for what is fairly basic work is a bit foreign. I had the head off my 1300 and ported it but it took me all winter and I don't want to get into engine out stuff, I don't have the facilities.

I will wait and see what they come back with when they have had a look at it.

[soe8m]

Compressiontest:

Are there pistons in the engine? Check!!
Are there valves in the engine? Check!!
Do I know more? Nope!!

Cilinder leak test:

Do the pistonrings seal? Check!!
Does the inlet valve leak? Check!!
Does the exhaust valve leak? Yes!! Bingo!!! 100% Diagnose.

Compressiontests are soooo 1922.

Jeroen

[Mahesh]

Very dramatic, but succinct and clear of ambiguities, a good course of action to follow.

[markas]

Are there any symptoms to suggest work is needed?

It is noisy (tappety)
It seems to be running on three and a half cylinders.
There is a rattling sound when the car is going over 50 mph and I put my foot down or take it off. This can also happen when the box changes from 2nd to 3rd and I have my foot down.

Hi there,
I have a Dolomite 1850 auto. A common consensus seems to be that engines are less stressed with an auto 'box, so may last longer.
I too have a rattling sound on occasions, not tappets, I'm used to that sound from my MGTF! My mechanic, Triumph trained, identified it as the distributor. Are you sure that's not the noise you are hearing?