The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Hi Shaun,

Without hijacking your thread..Im also fitting a powerspark system to my sprint without much luck as it seems.

The car runs (nicely) with points but Ive decided to convert to electronic after positive feedback from everyone who has fitted it.
Ive just been on the phone to the helpful people at Powerspark, and confirmed that I have everything hooked up correctly, and yet I still have no spark.

Have you had your car running with points and did you have to drastically re-time the distributor to get it to run? (Im talking, moving the dissy a tooth or more from the points setting)

Ive set the engine to ~ 12 BTDC and confirmed the rotor arm is pointing to #1, and then to static time the engine I have loosened the distributor and turned it till normally I can get #1 plug to just fire. I then know its in the ballpark and the motor should at least run to then tweak with a strobe.
With the dissy like it was on points, I cant get #1 to fire by twisting the dissy and I run out of adjustment..

Have you had any issues?

Cheers

Andrew

Hi Andrew...unfortunately I've not had the engine running at all with either points or Powerspark as it's a new build.

I set it, so I thought #1 was at TDC on the crank pulley and had the rotor arm at #1 plug, turned the key and nothing!

I'm not back home until Friday so I'll get someone more adept at me and report back then!

At 12 BTDC, where is the crank pulley notch pointing if the rotor arm is pointing at #1, which I assume is towards the tab on the dizzy body like I allude to earlier please?

shaunroche wrote: I set it, so I thought #1 was at TDC on the crank pulley and had the rotor arm at #1 plug, turned the key and nothing!

Bit like my experience to date...

shaunroche wrote:At 12 BTDC, where is the crank pulley notch pointing if the rotor arm is pointing at #1, which I assume is towards the tab on the dizzy body like I allude to earlier please?

Setting 12 BTDC on the crank pulley (or thereabouts) the rotor arm on mine is/was pointing towards the notch in the dizzy body as you mention. This system/setup works when I fit points, but not the powerspark module for some reason!

I have a few other checks to do tomorrow, but I`ll be interested in seeing how you go as well.

For the record, they sent me a K4 set so Im assuming you would have the same?

Let me know how you go when you get the chance to have another look.

Cheers

Andrew

Same problem I had. Faulty unit. They sent me a new one without hassle and it works ok now. All it needs is 2 wires connecting. If theyre good get on the phone again and get a new one. Timing position wont do much.

Tony

misterp wrote: .....Setting 12 BTDC on the crank pulley (or thereabouts) the rotor arm on mine is/was pointing towards the notch in the dizzy body as you mention.....

For the record, they sent me a K4 set so Im assuming you would have the same?

Let me know how you go when you get the chance to have another look....

Have a look at this Andrew...does this sound familiar?.....

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6206

Re the K4, don't know, but I'll find out!

Hi Shaun,

Sorry, understand what you mean about TDC and pulley/camshaft marks now.
Mine are all good, if I line up crank and cam then both marks line up so no issues for me at least there.

As I mentioned, the car runs fine with points, and so I'm going through all the possibilities (including speaking to Powerspark, who have been very helpful BTW) before I ask for another unit.

This will be the 3rd unit if it does end up being faulty however. My first unit did not work at all (no pulse on the negative black wire at all) so they sent another unit which apparently has been tested (came with a sticker on the box) so I'm eliminating any possible issues by double checking what I have done (hence why Im possibly grasping at straws a bit) or its as Tony says..another faulty module.

Either way, I`ll get some more time to double check and make 100% sure that its all connected, fitted etc. as it should be before calling in a bad unit.
it would be a shame really if it is another duff unit as Ive fitted about 3 powerspark systems in TR6's and they all work flawlessly.

Thanks

Andrew

I fitted my second module at the weekend and there is no spark at all so I'm back to points, at the mo, until I have time to investigate further.

Yep..Im now 100% certain that its the module now (again!).

To confirm, I fitted an old (tested and verified working) TR6 powerspark module and lo and behold, I get a nice 12V, flicking to zero as I rotate the dizzy.

I tried to get the car to run which I did, sort of....I think the TR6 module (as its a 6 and not a 4) has the pickup in a different spot on the module, and therefore to get the engine to run, it would just about run on full choke @ 1500 rpm, and only just registering using a strobe on the timing teeth (so firing around ATDC).
Either way..proved the wiring and dizzy are fine, and just the module is duff.

Ah well...back on the phone I go. Im the same as Mart..potentially on my 3rd module

Well I'm not holding out much hope then!

Anyone got a spare set of points, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap I can borrow please?

Well, it fires up so I'm assuming the unit is ok...the carbs need adjusting and then the timing so won't know until everything is set correctly I guess....

I have some inbuild protection system that automatically warns me for things with power, super and magic in their brand name.

Jeroen

soe8m wrote:I have some inbuild protection system that automatically warns me for things with power, super and magic in their brand name.

Jeroen

I think I have the same. I can smell it. sniff sniff sniff

Anyone had any success from any of their returns/new units?

Powerspark kindly sent me a K7 module, which Powerspark have told me it the same as a K4, but has a better pickup?

Any other news/success?

To be honest I cannot work out why anyone would bother fitting one of these kits with the amount of problems most have with them with duff units and fitting issues, what happens if you actually get one of these kits to work only for it to fail on the motorway at 70mph ?? , I imagine it would be very scary , I have been running a newtronic electronic ignition for years with only one hiccup ( and that was my own fault ) , I personally will be buying a lumenition if the current newtronic one ever decides to pack up.

Firstly, I am very disappointed that the units so far haven't worked, more because each time I have to try fitting a new module, its a faff and 30+ mins of risking dropping screws, and/or removing the dizzy, re-timing, finding it does/doesn't work and then reverting back to points and so on...the benefits of electronic ignition however are worth it, so Im persevering with this until I get a working solution (and Ive paid my money)
I will say for the record that I have no connection with Powerspark or any make/model of these, but my decision to go with Powerspark is due to price (they are significantly cheaper than the others) and previously having run these without any issues whatsoever. Perhaps the cheaper price that the Powerspark units sell for is affecting their quality control (in which case Im pretty certain that for a few quid extra, most people would prefer a first time working unit rather than a failure)?

I think however its a little short sighted to single out any of these modules as being 'better than the other'. Pertronix and lumenition have had more than their fair share of failures (search and ye shall find) as well as Im sure other brands have. They are all basically the same hall effect style units with a reed style/power transistors embedded in a plastic housing so all subject to failure at some time.
Anything electronic is potentially subject to failure at any time. Naturally you can increase the MTBF by using quality components and protecting against excess heat and EMF, but even then, it can be hit and miss.
If you sleep easy at night in the warm fuzzy knowledge that you have unit X rather than unit Y, then ultimately one day..you`ll be on the back of an AA truck by the side of the M4 wishing you had a spare unit....if however, you look at it more pragmatically, and carry a spare and/or replacement points condensor as at least it will get you home, then IMO is a much better option.

Most lumenitions fail because of a wrong coil. The magnetronic and optronic cannot switch lots of amps so a ballasted coil or even a dodgy coil can fry a lumenition. The black optronic modules can switch a low resistance coil. A lumenition with the right coil is the best points replacement you can buy. Most faulty units are caused by the installer not reading and measuring the coil.

Two weeks ago I had a faulty 123 ignition. It was a few months old and bought and installed by the customer. He did buy at the biggest reseller in NL and they also supplied a new coil with it. 123 must have 1 ohm coil at least and supplied was a 0,6 ohm pertonix what was actually 0,5. Resellers are salesmen.

When fitting an electronic ignition read the instructions and measure.

As in all things don't expect miracles of cheap parts and electronic ignitions. Quality does cost more and I don't see an powerspark run for 15 years.

Jeroen