The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

soe8m wrote:Time to take the spanners out.

Jeroen

But just how many times a week are you asked for a phone diagnosis Jeroen? Just cos it's a crystal ball job doesn't stop people from asking, does it? I get at least a dozen a week!

Steve

Carledo wrote:

soe8m wrote:Time to take the spanners out.

Jeroen

But just how many times a week are you asked for a phone diagnosis Jeroen? Just cos it's a crystal ball job doesn't stop people from asking, does it? I get at least a dozen a week!

Steve

Not so many anymore as the main theme now is wiring looms, electric issues and the for the dealer prehistoric injection systems from '85 and older. My standard phone answer is short. Check for corrosion in the connectors or a bad earth somewhere. When they already did check it's time to make an appointment for a physical diagnosis.

Jeroen.

Spanners have been outed, the replacement bottom end come home tomorrow and the fun can begin.

Question for the initiated...

My sprint is up on ramps and stands at the rear meaning the car is approx 1/2m off the ground.

Ive read up on removing the engine and gearbox together, and yet to decide if I want to drop the whole subframe out the bottom or engine + gearbox out of the top.
Preference at the moment is subframe out the bottom, but any advise given its just a bottom end swap out?

I have a crane and load leveller so either way it shouldn't be a drama.

Never had a car with a front subframe, so If I go for the subframe out the bottom,
- do I have to remove the brake master ?
- as long as I disconnect the exhaust at the manifold - downpipe joint, will the whole engine and subframe drop down without removing anything else (apart from the standard stuff cooling hoses, fuel lines, electrical connections and steering column etc.)
- Shall I leave it up on the ramps whilst Im disconnecting the gearbox cross member etc. and then jack the body up as high as possible to wheel the engine/subframe out underneath (remove the wheels as well to get a big more clearance?) or start with the whole car with 4 wheels on the ground?

Wish me luck and any pointer will be greatly appreciated.

I have only ever dropped an engine out as always think that pulling it out of the top lets it swing around and bash loads of bits!

The way I have done it recently was to put a big caster in each corner of a pallet and had it stuck under the sub frame, engine etc., undone and disconnected everything, including the calliper brake pipes which I always forget, and lifted the car off the engine etc. with an engine hoist and some rope.

This way the engine is already on the deck and as the car rises, just roll it out of the way.

You don't have to touch the Brake Master Cylinder, just the calliper brake pipes, the rad hoses, electrics and cluch pipe, speedo and throttle cable, sterring etc. as you mentioned.....

Thanks Shaun,

Id completely neglected that Id have to disconnect the brake lines anyway (I was thinking more along the lines of one less job to do it I could get away without bleeding the brakes again).

Good idea BTW with the pallet idea...I have a few roller boards (for moving furniture etc) that I could use in the same way perhaps...

Think I`ll be going this way as I agree...the less things to swing around and bash into things the better, plus the upside is I assume I`ll be able to keep the bonnet on this way and not have to go through the faff or re-mounting it and lining it back up. Minor win, but I`ll take all the wins I can get at the moment (havent even looked at the car since last weekend...its in the naughty corner )

The engine came straight out for me easy enough, though it is tight and you really do need a load leveller and a good reach crane if you have it on tall axle stands like I had.

misterp wrote:Thanks Shaun,

Id completely neglected that Id have to disconnect the brake lines anyway...

Yep, speaking from experience there!

Additionally, I had a nightmare trying to get the (new) rubber engine mtgs to compress so I would never do it top out...alright I suppose if you're not renewing the mtgs....

ST done mine last year, but they do have access to a lifting ramp,

You can take it out the top but jack the back up so car is very nose down...which compensates for engine rising at the front.

Or drop it out on the frame...Robert does this all the time.

Disconnect the exhaust at the downpipe by the gearbox...not the manifold flange. Completely remove the g-box cross member and mounting
and support the box on suitable jack. Disconnect propshaft at the gearbox flange.

Other bits as has been pointed out. I take the hole clutch slave off with bracket to avoid bleeding.

Jonners

Thanks guys..

Hopefully I can turn this bad situation around. I'm trying to look at it as an opportunity to get all the small bits done while it's all out that would otherwise have been a PITA to do.

We've got a good engine, here in Coventry.......

Would you be interested in a complete ready to drop in?

Can be heard running, as still in the car.........

Thanks for the kind offer...a bit far away for me (I have just added my location to my profile however..so you werent to know).

..wonder if it can come back hand luggage

Hhm, might be difficult on the scales!