The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

No mines is a full length copper pipe .
It only slips after I change gear , if I am travelling at say 20mph in second gear and floor it it will not slip but when I would go into 3rd and floor it it will slip but if I ease of for a few seconds and floor it it won't slip .

If your driving and put the clutch in and out in any gear it will slip if you floor it ,seams as if something is not releasing quick enough to engage the clutch plate to the flywheel ?

It has me baffled !

Almost sounds like oil fouling.

Sounds like the cone clutch in the o-d to me...

Jonners

Yep, cone clutch. It will get worse.

Ok , so if it's the cone clutch I take it that it's a big job ?
Is this a specialist job ?
Gearbox out and get the O/D refurbished?
Does any one know what sort of money this will cost or would I be better of just getting another box ?

O.K. but before doing an overdrive job can you have a quick look at another couple of things please ?

Is the return spring still there behind the clutch pedal ( 152307) and does the problem go away if you actively pull the clutch pedal back after changing gear .

Now the 1500 slave cylinder is a bit different to the 1850 / Sprint one I'm familiar with in that the cylinder can be moved in its retaining bracket. If you slacken the bolt and move the cylinder back does this help ? I'm sure there must be a set-up procedure for this but can another 1500 owner advise ?
I'm also aware that some French cars need some free-play in the master cylinder push rod before they operate otherwise they stick on ( brakes in particular ) Is the push-rod on your master cylinder O.K. ?
Tony.

Shaftmister wrote:When you mean the operating lever is stiff or gummed up what is involved in sorting that out ?
As I said before the slave cylinder , master cylinder and clutch kit is all new , that's why I can't figure out what else would be the problem other than the overdrive unit but this could be the culprit, any information on doing this would be a great help , thanks

If you have old grease in a shaft/bearing assembly it can cause high resistance on the shaft, it will move one way due to being foot operated but the spring pressure may not be enough to return it.
you may be able to use wd40 on both ends of the shaft and work it back and forth to free it off.

you may have to remove the slave cylinder so that you can move it freely, it won't move much but you can feel if it is free.

Just a few quotes of mr Shaftmister


Clutch slip is my problem and I have fitted new master cylinder , slave cylinder , clutch , pressure plate and release bearing , still slips ?

If your driving along in gear ( any gear) and put the foot down it doesn't skip , it only slips after your changing gears or taking off in first and if you easy of it engages and your away again till you change gear again ?

If you give the clutch pedal a wee jig in any gear it just slips !

To me it seams that something is slow on realising after the the clutch is let out.

There's a copper pipe fitted to mine if that's a good thing or a bad thing I don't know?

It only slips after I change gear , if I am travelling at say 20mph in second gear and floor it it will not slip but when I would go into 3rd and floor it it will slip but if I ease of for a few seconds and floor it it won't slip .

If your driving and put the clutch in and out in any gear it will slip if you floor it ,seams as if something is not releasing quick enough to engage the clutch plate to the flywheel ?



Anyone who states it's the cone clutch needs to ga back to school.
It's or a jammed operating system of the clutch or the oil return is the problem. Nothing else. Both easy to check when the tunnel is off.

Jeroen

No the pedal seams fine and releases no problem , the master cylinder seams to be working perfect as well .

When I bought the car it had been lying up in a garage for 4-5 years and when I trailers it home I give it the once over to check every thing .
I noticed that the slave cylinder was leaking so I ordered a new one , but when I removed it I found that someone cut out an extra notch on the cylinder so it could be pushed more into the box using the pinch bolt .
When i got the new one I fitted it in the grove that came manufactured .
Then when I got the car road worthy I came on this slipping problem so I cut an extra notch in the slave cylinder and fitted it the way the old one was but it just left the bite point very short and hard to get gears so I put it back to its normal position .

Is there any reason why some one would have done this ?

Someone with a problem in the hydrolics and no idea what to do.....

The clutch set, was it new or reconditioned one?

Jeroen

Was the pushrod in the main cilinder the same lenght as the old one?

Jeroen

Well, having had near identical symptoms on Susie's 1850, changing the overdrive unit (with no other work done at the same time) cured the problem.

There is an issue with clutch slave cylinders on ohv cars.

Usually the problem is the clutch not releasing enough. Push rod length and so on including position in mounting brackets etc...

I have had systems bled solid so no air and still the clutch won't release....change to the right cylinder and all was well.

This extra groves and funny feeling pedal is all symptomatic of that sort of thing. So if the clutch frees of and the pedal feels right to your
foot I suspect its not clutch hydraulics. If drive takeup with a light throttle opening is as you would expect and there is no delay relative to pedal movement then your clutch and hydraulics are fine.

The symptoms you describe are a sort of slip after a gearchange and then all being well. You cant make it slip once drive is established.

When my cone clutch was on the way out in one 1850 it would slip in second on a hard acceleration, but you could "feel" the slip was further back and drive would come back immediately on easing off.

The way this is described it sounds more to me like a cone clutch slip.

It may be worth while doing the o-d filters and O rings on the solenoid, which may be sticking a bit and allowing partial pressure to release the cone clutch. Does o-d engage and disengage easilly or is it slow and slurred.?If its all good it should be snappy in and out and not need any extra
help from declutching at the pedal, which some advocate but I think is unecessary. Its supposed to work on a car at full bore in 3rd so you dont run out of revs when overtaking after all....


Jonners

I can understand your reason about the cone clutch but when you leave the o/d out of this story then you all would say a worn clutchplate. The o/d is in this case an distraction i think.

Slip in the cone clutch would also be noticeable when accelerating hard but it is not slipping then.

There is just a small period of slip when changing gear. When the normal clutch engages again. When ease off then the clutch engages fully and then there is no slip or whatever, just after changing gears again the same story. When a cone clutch does slip it does slip. When ease off a slipping cone clutch does engage it would only be noticable when using o/d and o/d out. Changing gear and depressing the normal clutch is a total ease off of the cone clutch.

So when o/d is off and not switched on and off, and the cone is engaged it does not slip after a gearchange. And when after ease off there's no slip anymore, even when accelerating it can't be the cone clutch.

Jeroen

Brand new Borg and beck clutch kit fitted
Going to clean out the filters in the o/d this evening .
Shaft on cylinders are the same length


Just to freshen the post :
Master cylinder is new
Slave cylinder is new
Clutch is new
No air in system
Clutch is biting at a nice point
Will not slip when driving , only slips after changing gear and if you ease of you can find it engaging and away we go again till you have to change gear
This happens in every gear in or out of overdrive .