Pinion oil seal nut

[cleverusername]

When I was an apprentice I made the bearing extractor shown in the photograph and I have used it for both removing the rear axle pinion seals and as shown in the photo O/D rear seals.

Now that is nice, beats my method of hammer, screwdriver and much swearing.

[2door-toledo]

When I was an apprentice I made the bearing extractor shown in the photograph and I have used it for both removing the rear axle pinion seals and as shown in the photo O/D rear seals.

Oh, what a good idea. I was able to use a Draper 13908 3 legged puller to get my seal out very easily. Hooray, saved me lots of messing around tomorrow. Cheers!

[Bish]

Since the preload is supposed to be set to the value given WITHOUT the crownwheel and diff in place, you can only guess at a sensible preload anyway. The pinion shaft bearings are taper rollers, wear in these is what causes loss of apparent preload and, I suspect, that this is what is responsible for your pinion flange nut appearing to be loose. You can reset a preload into it, but if the rearmost pinion shaft bearing is worn (which no visual inspection short of total dismantling will show) the crown wheel to pinion mesh will not be correct and may result in noise.

I'm certain that the front bearing race can be removed through the pinion flange hole (once the seal is out) as that is how it is fitted on initial build, but it may be WELL stuck on the shaft and difficult to dislodge. I'd be inclined to try refitting the flange and tapping it sideways to dislodge the race.

The ONLY way to be sure is to replace the 4 main critical bearings and re-set up the diff as per factory. But there's nothing lost by giving it a go as it is, either it's quiet and you've got away with it and saved a wedge of dosh, or it's noisy and will need a rebuild (or another axle) which it almost certainly did before you started! Just, if it IS loud, don't drive it long like that or you WILL write off the CWP too!

Steve

Wise words Steve thanks. I am indeed going to give it a go as it is. But if it turns out to be noisy it won’t be driven and I’ll re-assess my options.

I think I would have a better chance of success if I could get the bearing out to be able to fit a new collapsable washer. Wish I had a puller like Richards! But I’m guessing I should be able to do the nut up to the required torque - new washer or not?

[Bish]

When I was an apprentice I made the bearing extractor shown in the photograph and I have used it for both removing the rear axle pinion seals and as shown in the photo O/D rear seals.

Oh, what a good idea. I was able to use a Draper 13908 3 legged puller to get mine out very easily. Hooray, saved me lots of messing around tomorrow. Cheers!

Well done Chris, good work.

I have a similar puller, but it’s not thin enough to drop into and grab the actual bearing itself. Looks like I’m going to have to buy a suitable one......

[Richard the old one]

Another way of removing the oil seal is by using a seal puller tool such as sold by Sealey.co.uk model no AK7000 or model VS8000. I have not used either but I am assuming they work and I also assume there will be similar items available that are made by other manufacturers.

[cleverusername]

Another way of removing the oil seal is by using a seal puller tool such as sold by Sealey.co.uk model no AK7000 or model VS8000. I have not used either but I am assuming they work and I also assume there will be similar items available that are made by other manufacturers.

They kind of work but not very well. I have got one, the thing to be careful of is the tool letting go when you are really going for it. I almost stab myself in my own leg.

[Bish]

The problem I have is trying to remove the bearing itself, the seal is out no problem there.
I’m trying to find a puller with fine legs and grip points at a right angle, but can’t find anything. The only way to grip the bearing is on the inner face. Maybe I’ll try some of the pick type of tools that are used to remove o rings etc to pull on the bearing whilst tapping the diff housing with a copper hammer. But it’s bloody freezing in the garage at the moment so I’m staying warm for now, it can wait a while............

I’ve ordered a collapsable spacer so do hope to use it. But if the bearing won’t budge I’ll have to be content with just torquing a new nut up.

[tony g]

Try tapping the pinion inwards slightly with a soft mallet, this will move the bearing on the shaft a bit and may give better purchase. Once moved the pinion will have some back and forth slop but will seat on the bearing when pulled forward.

Tony

[Bish]

Thanks all for your help.

I’ve tried all sorts to get the bearing to budge with no joy. So I’ve put a new seal in and a new nut on the pinion drive flange, and torqued to 90lbft. I do have a rather large torque wrench which I got from a mate who’s a HGV mechanic, I used it to undo the nut and I’m thinking that’s why it came off so easily. The wrench is a blighter of a thing and getting the nut torqued back up was a cinch.

So fingers and toes crossed all will be well. If not I will have to address it at a later date.
Case closed for now...........

Cheers again, Bish.