The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Posted: **Mon Feb 01, 2021 9:30 pm**

RichardHyde wrote: ↑Mon Feb 01, 2021 7:51 am Nothing to do the restoration, but I could never change gas supplier using one of those utility switch websites.

When I looked into it, EOn had charged me business rather than residential rates for 6.5 years. I pushed them and pushed them until I got a £1,300 refund !!

Well worth looking into any anomalies !!

The units they owe me back have varied in cost over the last 3.5 years but I have been charged in excess of 10p for each, so they owe me about £8,000-£10,000.

Posted: **Sat May 15, 2021 9:43 pm**

Well I have made a small, amount of progress on the car since my last post.

I have managed to pull the dent out in the rear panel by welding on washers and using a slide hammer.

I took out the fuel tank and found that the previous owner had filled a hole in the rear of the inner wheel-arch with black silicone, so I attacked the whole of the inner arch with a wire wheel, with the inevitable result.

So I started to repair some of the holes.

I have also discovered that the outer arches have been repaired previously, probably some time before the car was laid up 20 odd years ago. This has persuaded me that I really should go for a set of Sprintspeed wide arches, which will result in most of the old repairs being removed.

I managed to get a £6000 refund from Scottish Power and I still have a dispute on-going with Ombudsman Services, so there may be more to follow. This freed up some cash for a reconditioned TX1 gearbox.

I need to switch over the CA bellhousing which is behind it. Interestingly, the complete gearbox only weighs in at 39Kg. Not sure how this compares to a Sprint O/D 'box but imagine it's a fair weight saving.

Posted: **Sun Jul 04, 2021 11:03 pm**

A variation on SprintV8's idea.

I was going to try and modify the original boot badge myself but this is much better and not too expensive either.

Posted: **Thu Sep 02, 2021 12:48 am**

Time for a bit of an update.

I split the gearbox and fitted the CA18 bellhousing.

Then I went to see Alun to get the panels I needed and a quickrack.

I also got a set of Sprintspeed arches and trimmed these down to fit.

Checked the big-end bearings on the engine, re-torqued the caps and re-fitted the sump.

The turbo will foul the n/s suspension turret, so I have cut this away to allow for fitting and will weld in a closing panel when the engine is out again for the rest of the bodywork to be done. I didn't realise quite how much of a potential rust trap these are.

Got the gearbox fitted to the engine and the slave cylinder attached but with no flywheel fitted at the moment.

Then got the engine into place this evening.

We started to level the engine sideways, which is tricky as it sits on a very slight slant (11 degrees IIRC). We levelled the shell on the lift by checking across the front of the chassis rails and then using the flat surface on the underside of the gearbox to level everything up.

We now need to get it levelled front to back, so I am guessing that normally the underside of the cills sit level on a Dolomite? It would also be useful to know a distance down from the underside of the top of the transmission tunnel to the centre of the output flange on the gearbox, if anyone could help with that measurement? The gearbox is quite a tight fit for length, with the lever coming out quite near to the handbrake but at least still in the standard cover aperture.

Once everything is levelled up correctly I can sort out the gearbox mount, which will probably be a modified TX1 crossmember with the standard TX1 rubber mount.

Posted: **Thu Sep 02, 2021 3:00 pm**

I've not done this particular convo, but doing mine, i've found that old engineer's maxim of "if it LOOKS right, it IS right!" is your friend.

A lot depends on the design of the front (gearbox end) prop joint.

When building the Carledo, I utilised the rotoflex style joint as used on the Carlton. I'd already fitted and leveled up the engine (like you it had a factory list to the left, in my case 7 degrees) and fore and aft it looked about level and I'd taken pains to get the extended centre line of the output shaft (the Vaux gearbox is beautifully short) dead centre in the tunnel. But when I took the stock prop to be adapted to the rubber coupling, the guy at Proptech told me it should have no more than 1 degree of runout between crank line and the angle of the front prop. Or it would destroy the coupling in short order. Since the engine/gearbox was already settled in the ONLY place it really fitted and I only had limited adjustment available by shimming the centre prop bearing, I took a chance and fitted the prop where I'd designed it. 10 years and a thousand storming starts and linelock burnouts later, the same (2nd hand) rubber joint is still there and shows no signs of damage or imminent failure. So I either have a good eye or am extremely lucky. Since i've never won the lottery, i'm tentatively eliminating luck!

On the other hand, if you have a universal joint at the front of the prop (which I believe is your case) it's the other way round. With a UJ, the LAST thing you want is for the crank/gearbox mainshaft line to exactly match the line of the prop front section. It not only leads to accelerated wear on the UJ, it can also introduce a lot of nasty harmonics and vibrations into the driveline. This is why the Sprint carries it's centre bearing cockeyed with one nut tag above the fixing bracket and one below. One or two people I know have "corrected" this "mistake made by a previous owner/mechanic" then come to me to sort their driveline vibe!

For a UJ, you should be looking for a minimum of 1.5 degree variation and practical max of up to 5 degrees, 3 is about optimal.

Or are you using a single piece prop? If so, put it wherever you like! Just avoid that straight line in the normal running position!

Steve

Posted: **Sat Sep 04, 2021 7:55 am**

Nice write up

Whats with the TX 1 gearbox? Are they from a nissan engine in a taxi then? What are the benefits of this box over a 200sx box ?

Tony

Posted: **Sat Sep 04, 2021 5:47 pm**

The TX1 is much shorter than the standard 180SX gearbox. Just need to swap bellhousings over.

Posted: **Sat Sep 04, 2021 9:04 pm**

TX1 gear ratios.

I=3.592 (14.73)

II=2.246 (9.21)

III=1.415 (5.

IV=1 (4.1)

V=0.82 (3.36)

SR20DE
6-speed manual 5-speed manual
1st gear ratio 3.626 3.321
2nd gear ratio 2.200 1.902
3rd gear ratio 1.541 1.308
4th gear ratio 1.213 1.000
5th gear ratio 1.000 0.838
6th gear ratio 0.767 -
final drive (diff) 3.692 4.083

Thought the gear ratios would be a mile apart but they aren’t that bad.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2021 6:34 am**

Carledo wrote: ↑Thu Sep 02, 2021 3:00 pm I've not done this particular convo, but doing mine, i've found that old engineer's maxim of "if it LOOKS right, it IS right!" is your friend.

A lot depends on the design of the front (gearbox end) prop joint.

When building the Carledo, I utilised the rotoflex style joint as used on the Carlton. I'd already fitted and leveled up the engine (like you it had a factory list to the left, in my case 7 degrees) and fore and aft it looked about level and I'd taken pains to get the extended centre line of the output shaft (the Vaux gearbox is beautifully short) dead centre in the tunnel. But when I took the stock prop to be adapted to the rubber coupling, the guy at Proptech told me it should have no more than 1 degree of runout between crank line and the angle of the front prop. Or it would destroy the coupling in short order. Since the engine/gearbox was already settled in the ONLY place it really fitted and I only had limited adjustment available by shimming the centre prop bearing, I took a chance and fitted the prop where I'd designed it. 10 years and a thousand storming starts and linelock burnouts later, the same (2nd hand) rubber joint is still there and shows no signs of damage or imminent failure. So I either have a good eye or am extremely lucky. Since i've never won the lottery, i'm tentatively eliminating luck!

On the other hand, if you have a universal joint at the front of the prop (which I believe is your case) it's the other way round. With a UJ, the LAST thing you want is for the crank/gearbox mainshaft line to exactly match the line of the prop front section. It not only leads to accelerated wear on the UJ, it can also introduce a lot of nasty harmonics and vibrations into the driveline. This is why the Sprint carries it's centre bearing cockeyed with one nut tag above the fixing bracket and one below. One or two people I know have "corrected" this "mistake made by a previous owner/mechanic" then come to me to sort their driveline vibe!

For a UJ, you should be looking for a minimum of 1.5 degree variation and practical max of up to 5 degrees, 3 is about optimal.

Or are you using a single piece prop? If so, put it wherever you like! Just avoid that straight line in the normal running position!

Steve

Steve,

Sorry abut the late reply, I have been away for a few days.

Yes, I like that maxim. I first heard it only a few years ago (which is surprising, as I am getting on a bit now) but it does hold true with so many things, even aesthetics.

That's very interesting about the prop-shaft ideally not being directly in line with the gearbox. If you hadn't mentioned this, I would have been trying my very best to get it directly in line.

I am using the TX1 prop-shaft, shortened by about 6", with a modified Sprint diff flange. It is a one-piece prop-shaft and it has a U/J at the front, with a splined sliding joint on the gearbox. So I will aim for about 3 degrees off the gearbox line, with the car sat on the ground. I am hoping that with engine level in the car this will be achieved vertically but we will see.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2021 6:47 am**

tony g wrote: ↑Sat Sep 04, 2021 7:55 am Nice write up Whats with the TX 1 gearbox? Are they from a nissan engine in a taxi then? What are the benefits of this box over a 200sx box ?

Tony

Thanks. I will try and keep the updates coming but progress is a bit sporadic due to work/family/property improvements interrupting things.

The TX1 is a London Taxi with the 2.7 Nissan TD engine. As Richard has explained there are long and short tail versions of the 5W70C gearbox. The short tail ones are quite rare and are tricky to get hold of. Parts are a bit difficult too. My gearbox came without a speedo drive, so I ordered what I though was the correct one from the US but it was wrong, so I eventually sourced the correct one from Australia! I have since picked up a spare gearbox for a bargain price and, of course, that came with the speedo drive! The spare 'box also had a crossmember which looks to be better than the skyline one I was planning on using.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2021 7:07 am**

SprintV8 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 04, 2021 9:04 pm TX1 gear ratios.

I=3.592 (14.73)

II=2.246 (9.21)

III=1.415 (5.

IV=1 (4.1)

V=0.82 (3.36)

SR20DE
6-speed manual 5-speed manual
1st gear ratio 3.626 3.321
2nd gear ratio 2.200 1.902
3rd gear ratio 1.541 1.308
4th gear ratio 1.213 1.000
5th gear ratio 1.000 0.838
6th gear ratio 0.767 -
final drive (diff) 3.692 4.083

Thought the gear ratios would be a mile apart but they aren’t that bad.

Phil,

I was looking at them a few weeks ago and they didn't seem too bad. The SR20 is the later 2 litre engine. These are the standard S13 5W70C ratios.

1st: 3.321
2nd: 1.902
3rd: 1.308
4th: 1.000
5th: .838
Reverse: 3.382
Final Drive: 4.363 (outside of Europe!)
Final Drive: 3.916 (European)

So first and second are a bit lower geared in the TX1 'box but there's not a massive difference on the higher gears. The Sprint diff is higher geared than the S13 European final drive though. So maybe slightly wider ratios than ideal for a standard engine but I do have a hybrid T25 turbo to go on, which should spool up better at lower revs than the standard T25.

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2021 9:32 pm**

I wouldn't worry about the taller Sprint diff! Some of it will be absorbed by a lower rolling tyre radius from using 13" or even 14" wheels and the rest is cared for by the amount of weight you are effectively shedding in the transplant! A Dolomite is just over 1 tonne kerb weight and an S13 is around 1.5-1.7 tonnes. The resultant improvement in power-to-weight ratio is more than enough to pull the taller diff!

I can't give exact gear ratios for the AR25 autobox i've used in the Dolomega, Haynes doesn't list them and I don't have a factory manual for the Omega. But I DO know the stock diff for the auto was also 3.9, with 205/60 shod 15" rims and the 4th gear in the trans is heavily overdriven. Using the Sprint 3.45 diff with 185/60/14s and measured by my (very accurate) electronic speedo, i'm getting almost exactly 60mph @2000 rpm in top gear. Floor it at this speed, just short of kickdown (it'll drop to 2nd if you kick it!) and it still pulls hard, so no problems there and it also augers well for fuel economy on a run! I only have about 147bhp (NA) to play with, you should have no trouble at all!

Steve

Posted: **Sun Sep 05, 2021 11:08 pm**

Carledo wrote: ↑Sun Sep 05, 2021 9:32 pm I wouldn't worry about the taller Sprint diff! Some of it will be absorbed by a lower rolling tyre radius from using 13" or even 14" wheels and the rest is cared for by the amount of weight you are effectively shedding in the transplant! A Dolomite is just over 1 tonne kerb weight and an S13 is around 1.5-1.7 tonnes. The resultant improvement in power-to-weight ratio is more than enough to pull the taller diff!

I can't give exact gear ratios for the AR25 autobox i've used in the Dolomega, Haynes doesn't list them and I don't have a factory manual for the Omega. But I DO know the stock diff for the auto was also 3.9, with 205/60 shod 15" rims and the 4th gear in the trans is heavily overdriven. Using the Sprint 3.45 diff with 185/60/14s and measured by my (very accurate) electronic speedo, i'm getting almost exactly 60mph @2000 rpm in top gear. Floor it at this speed, just short of kickdown (it'll drop to 2nd if you kick it!) and it still pulls hard, so no problems there and it also augers well for fuel economy on a run! I only have about 147bhp (NA) to play with, you should have no trouble at all!

Steve

Steve,

I am probably going to use 225/45 x 13 tyres, so I guess that will probably be a smaller rolling radius than the standard 14" S13 wheels and tyres. I hadn't looked up the S13 kerb weight, I expected it to be a few hundred Kg more than a Dolomite but 500-700 Kgs is a hell of a lot.

Glad to here that your autobox is now working well after the oil change. 30mph/1000RPM is certainly nicely geared for Motorway driving.

I didn't get much time on the car today but I did spend an hour, or so, checking the front to back level of the engine. Amazingly, on the lift the cills were perfectly level but the engine was very definitely down at the rear. I managed to get the rear end of the gearbox up an inch and I think I can squeak another 3/4" before the prop deflector disc and U/J are in danger of hitting the reinforcing member at the top of the transmission tunnel, just behind the gearbox area. To do this, I will have to remove the flange that supports the rear of the gearbox cover and re-fabricate it later.

Posted: **Mon Sep 06, 2021 7:59 pm**

My source for the weight of the S13 may not be too reliable, it's the technical specs on Gran Turismo 2! Which was extremely well researched in the name of accurate physics in the game, so is probably close! You have to know a base weight to lighten it! But a lot of modern cars are very heavy with all the extra safety stuff incorporated. Door bars, airbags, ABS block, electric window and seat motors, plus the physical size increase and ACRES of heavy glass, you'd be surprised!

Prop deflector disc? Is this what I think it is? An oil thrower disc at the UJ end of the sliding joint? Bin it and make yourself some room!

I had to convert the Dolomega's front joint away from the rotoflex to a flange and UJ because the longer autobox put the rotoflex bang under that awkward tunnel reinforcer. I could have cut the reinforcer away and made a box section underneath but that would be against the 8 point rules which I don't want to flout. So I took the rear Tripod off the trans and took it to Proptech along with a spare Sprint gearbox output shaft flange and he married the 2 together for me, like so:-

That let me raise the rear of the trans over 2" and get it level!

Steve

Posted: **Mon Sep 06, 2021 10:50 pm**

Carledo wrote: ↑Mon Sep 06, 2021 7:59 pm My source for the weight of the S13 may not be too reliable, it's the technical specs on Gran Turismo 2! Which was extremely well researched in the name of accurate physics in the game, so is probably close! You have to know a base weight to lighten it! But a lot of modern cars are very heavy with all the extra safety stuff incorporated. Door bars, airbags, ABS block, electric window and seat motors, plus the physical size increase and ACRES of heavy glass, you'd be surprised!

Prop deflector disc? Is this what I think it is? An oil thrower disc at the UJ end of the sliding joint? Bin it and make yourself some room!

I had to convert the Dolomega's front joint away from the rotoflex to a flange and UJ because the longer autobox put the rotoflex bang under that awkward tunnel reinforcer. I could have cut the reinforcer away and made a box section underneath but that would be against the 8 point rules which I don't want to flout. So I took the rear Tripod off the trans and took it to Proptech along with a spare Sprint gearbox output shaft flange and he married the 2 together for me, like so:-

That let me raise the rear of the trans over 2" and get it level!

Steve

Even if it's 500Kg heavier, rather than 700Kg, it still makes the Dolomite 2/3 the weight of an S13.

I don't think the deflector is an oil thrower. It is on the U/J end of the sliding joint but it is cupped the wrong way round. It looks more like it is designed to keep the elements away from the output shaft seal. I will get a photo tomorrow.

I am going to try and avoid cutting that reinforcing section. Hopefully the engine will go forward another 10mm, or so, and that will be enough.

The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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