Expansion Bottle

[newguy]

coming along nicely, personally the feed back to the lower hose is the key because I think that the car when used on track (hammered) causes cavitating in the pump and airlocks can form (sometimes).
These are just guesses on my part.

Is that an 1850 servo I spot?

Yea i think keeping the air out of the system is the key and having a tank that seals is going to help.

Yup but SHHHHHH don't tell the WOF man my Sprint one was Eaten up

[newguy]

Well last night i got rid of my old shell back to the triumph graveyard.
It was sad to see it go but glad it has as it was just taking up space in the shed, i now have somewhere i can keep the more modern starlet that needs a bit of a tidy up before i put it back on the road and work on the Dolly.

While i was waiting for the old fulla to get home to use the ute i mocked up and cut all the hosing for the header tank and cut the bottom radiator hose and fitted the T Junction.
And removed the Old Expansion tank.
Going to get some Good coolant today and empty and flush the system out with Soapy water, then fresh water to make sure everything is nice and clean.

Anyways some pics

The T Link in the Bottom hose


The Brass converter, all Lock tite Sealed


And the cooling tank and other hoses

[Jon Tilson]

Mmmm nice...
No need for a heater in the warm climate of NZ then...

Jonners

[zombeh]

or windscreen washer bottle

[newguy]

To much weight guys.

[newguy]

Well before i fitted the system i was getting a slight increase in temprature with the motor.
Now after i have fitted it i am having more of a increase in temprature.

I can't put my finger on what is wrong.

I thought that the abient temprature which has been arond 27 odd degrees over the last few days might have made it worse.
So then when i was driving i switched the electric fan off and the temp started to rise, i then switched it back on and the temp dropped again.

Soo then i thought the fan which is a 12inch might have been restricting the airflow through the radiator.
So i took it off and put the mechanical fan back on.

Which helped a little bit while cruising but not very good when stationary.
Then my car was sitting at idle and the fan stopped spinning.
I shut the car off and moved the fan, and to my suprise the Bolt that holds the crank pully in place feel out.
After 6000miles seemed a bit odd and after lewis thread.

So now i have to pull the fan and radiator back out to tightned the nut back up.

Now what is wrong with my car?
I have had the 48s on for a while now and have done alot of good running and then i left it idling in the garage and it got a bit hot and the old header tank seal was pretty crappy which let it push out liquid i wouldn't say i was boiling over.
Was just getting near the 3/4 mark.

I have since put the VW Header tank on, new plumbing it should be better not worse.
I had what i thought was a leak out the top of the head gasket which turned out to be the usual manifold leak wwith coolant boiling on the head.
I have normal pressure in the radiator hoses,
For some reason a cold radiator when i stop from crusing speed and feel the radiator its cool, but after 2 minutes or so of sitting still the radiator gets hot to the touch.

Can the water pump impellor slip in the shaft? Or anyway it carn'tpump water?

No oil in water or water in oil

Pulls fine and does not ping.

Something seems odd to me.

[SPRINTPARTS]

Yes the water pump implellor can, on rare occasions, spin on the shaft. In my race engines I always key the impellor to the shaft.

Philip

[straylight]

with the engine cool/off, remove the thermostat filler and start her up. As the engine heats up enough, you should see fluid going through to the radiator. If you don't see water pumping through, the water pump isn't doing its job.

But, the way you describe the radiator getting hot suggests to me that the pump is pumping hot water into it, so maybe the pump isn't the problem.

maybe time to start at the beginning stew, work through what you know and what you don't know and solve it by a process of elimination.

hot radiator means water is being pumped through it and therefore thermostat is opening. Turning on the electric fan and seeing the engine temp decrease means the radiator and fan are doing their job. More or less efficiently. Seeing low temperature at cruising speed is also good, since it means airflow is cooling the system down. Having water move into the expansion bottle is normal, particularly if you are idling a hot/worked engine in 27 degrees ambient temp. It is also a sign that you don't have any other leaks. Where do you want to go from here ?

stu

[mbellinger]

Your symptoms are exactly those I encounter in my Vauxhall engined Toledo when under track conditions.

I am convinced it is caused by airlocks.

My solution is going to be the new expansion tank like your T pieced into the bottom hose, together with a bleed valve inserted in the top radiator hose. Aussie spec Nissan Patrols have a beautiful item that fits the bill perfectly (one is on its way to me ), but they are also fitted to various Renaults and Alfa's.

I would also suggest that the little red pipe into the T piece is a bit restrictive, and the T itself could do with being a bigger bore.

My reckoning on making these mods is that the engine will fill water from the bottom up, pushing air to the top which is then released via the bleed screw. I won't be doing mine till after Christmas, so if you try it first let me know how you get on and we will compare notes.

[newguy]

with the engine cool/off, remove the thermostat filler and start her up. As the engine heats up enough, you should see fluid going through to the radiator. If you don't see water pumping through, the water pump isn't doing its job.

But, the way you describe the radiator getting hot suggests to me that the pump is pumping hot water into it, so maybe the pump isn't the problem.

maybe time to start at the beginning stew, work through what you know and what you don't know and solve it by a process of elimination.

hot radiator means water is being pumped through it and therefore thermostat is opening. Turning on the electric fan and seeing the engine temp decrease means the radiator and fan are doing their job. More or less efficiently. Seeing low temperature at cruising speed is also good, since it means airflow is cooling the system down. Having water move into the expansion bottle is normal, particularly if you are idling a hot/worked engine in 27 degrees ambient temp. It is also a sign that you don't have any other leaks. Where do you want to go from here ?

stu

It seems odd that the radiator used to get hot while i was cruising but now it does not.
To me this suggested that the pump had stopped working or spinning on the pump.
As i have to take the radiator out again, i was thinking i may aswell take all the gear off and check the pump.
I could be surprised.

I'm confused as something is really not making sense.

I also thought mbellinger that the Way i have the system setup now like Jon it would bleed the airlocks out itself......

Gota love these cars.

[newguy]

Well it got the best of me.
Took the radiator out and took the manifold off also, pulled the pump cover off and the pumps bolt has been chewing into the pump cover?

[Jon Tilson]

Bit late hear else I'd find it for you but have a look at my water pump how to...
You need clearance between the bolt and cover...this is achieved with gaskets of the correct thickness.
If the bolt comes undone then the impellor can slip on the shaft. Suggest you key it...

Jonners

[newguy]

Yea the thing is................

I had the bubbling along thehead which i tightened the Manifold bolts up for, but the leaking didnt stop.
So i then tightened up the Waterpump cover bolts and that is when i started to get the bigger heating problems.

Hopefully get the car back together tomorrow after noon.

What do you think, I now have the pump at the correct clearence.

[newguy]

Alrighty

Well i got the car all back together today.
Put the Mechanical fan back on, gave it a clean up and flushed the system again.
I then filled the car up with coolant via the thermostat cover and had the cap off the header bottle.
I kept filling through the thermo cap till i got to the minimum level on the header tank.
I then put the lid on the header tank and kept filling till it was coming out of the thermo cap.
Put the cap on started the car and my Manifold Link Leak stopped after it found its place, when it got to the 2nd mark i stopped the engine and put another 150ml in via the thermo cap.
I then went for a run and the gauge didn't go over half a good needle below.
I then came back after about 4Km and checked for leaks while the car was idling.
All is looking well.

After the car cooled down and the pressure had gone i topped the header tank up to full.

Went for another cruise and its staying very cool.

Gunna take it easy over summer.

[Jod Clark]

I'd be looking into how you can use the 'low water' sensor that's built into in the VW expansion tank. That would be very useful.