What stops an engine revving?
Yup! multivalve systems are an excellent way to improve the VE of a piston engine! 
I was reading about Hemi tuning recently and some of the competition engines (6+ litres) revved past 10,000RPM at which point "They started sounding a bit funny"
Excellent bits of engineering they were!
Sorry 1300 dolly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OUlsitO64E
Have this video of a VW 16 valve revving to 10,000RPM instead
OR this VTEC doing it's thing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzW8ECb5xWk

I was reading about Hemi tuning recently and some of the competition engines (6+ litres) revved past 10,000RPM at which point "They started sounding a bit funny"

Sorry 1300 dolly

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OUlsitO64E
Have this video of a VW 16 valve revving to 10,000RPM instead

OR this VTEC doing it's thing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzW8ECb5xWk
Last edited by Lewis on Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
...or why not dick around with the mixture again?
could be dirty air filters too, thats if you havent binned them. could be air starvation, in fact a mass of fuel related things, as well as ignition related things. been twisting the dizzy?
you bad boy.
things arent always what they seem...
i recently had a proper trauma with the bike - fitted new clocks from bandit, wiring not directly compatible so even though i have a wiring diagram for the standard bike loom and also traced all the wires into to clocks and muppet lights i still had to use an element of trial and error. also in the process the thing ran out of fuel. the fuel plumbing isnt correct, i.e. the reserve isnt piped up, but the 'on' is, creating an illusion of having plenty of fuel left, when actually its not getting through. proceeded to re-fuel the bitch, then found she still wouldnt fire properly, big flames out the pipe, backfires the lot. bike has 2 coils, one for '1' and '4' and the other for 2 and 3 (obviously). was convinced my tacho wiring or something else was grounding one or both of the coils causing discharge before plug could spark, but eventually after a week of head scratching, few phone calls etc i got sick of it, pulled the air filters off, cleaned some crud out the intake side of the carbs, gave it a few fistfuls and some big startermotor abuse, et voila, she lives again, nowt to do with my wiring, just dirty carbs.

could be dirty air filters too, thats if you havent binned them. could be air starvation, in fact a mass of fuel related things, as well as ignition related things. been twisting the dizzy?
you bad boy.

things arent always what they seem...
i recently had a proper trauma with the bike - fitted new clocks from bandit, wiring not directly compatible so even though i have a wiring diagram for the standard bike loom and also traced all the wires into to clocks and muppet lights i still had to use an element of trial and error. also in the process the thing ran out of fuel. the fuel plumbing isnt correct, i.e. the reserve isnt piped up, but the 'on' is, creating an illusion of having plenty of fuel left, when actually its not getting through. proceeded to re-fuel the bitch, then found she still wouldnt fire properly, big flames out the pipe, backfires the lot. bike has 2 coils, one for '1' and '4' and the other for 2 and 3 (obviously). was convinced my tacho wiring or something else was grounding one or both of the coils causing discharge before plug could spark, but eventually after a week of head scratching, few phone calls etc i got sick of it, pulled the air filters off, cleaned some crud out the intake side of the carbs, gave it a few fistfuls and some big startermotor abuse, et voila, she lives again, nowt to do with my wiring, just dirty carbs.

a bike?
on the dolly board?
surely that'd be like putting a spoon in the knife draw, or in the mrs' case a knife in the screwdriver toolbox, either one would do the same job for her...

she's not that attractive at the minute (the bike that is, the mrs is quite tasty), the back fairing/seat is 'hanging' off by the wiring to the rear lights, theres no headlight and just a load of pretty coloured spaghetti hanging out the front.
imagine a bandit... painted saxo blue... with renthal bars on risers... and a 1off back fairing that looks a bit pointy and slightly jacked up... with twin tailights (1 at the end and 1 underneath)... and a big single chrome headlight... fairly clean and tidy... black engine with polished ally side covers... black undertray...
...and roberts your mothers brother!
for you, Mr Ken, I will endeavour to find a pic before I demolished her and pop it on here shortly.

Check the general Thread
Hint.
BUSA Turbo
.
Hint.


2011 Mini Clubman John Cooper Works. S Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SsuperCharged.
Back in my possession 22 September 2019.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
352 @ 28/11/2022
455Hrs @ 20/10/2023
565Hrs @ 07/12/2024
This is time taken at the Sprint not necessary time worked.
Member TDC no 0471
Project 13B Sprint now back on..
No Pistons No Cams how’s it gonna Run Brap Brap?
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SsuperCharged.
Back in my possession 22 September 2019.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
352 @ 28/11/2022
455Hrs @ 20/10/2023
565Hrs @ 07/12/2024
This is time taken at the Sprint not necessary time worked.
Member TDC no 0471
Project 13B Sprint now back on..
No Pistons No Cams how’s it gonna Run Brap Brap?
ok, heres the toy:

its a bit of a tossy pic taken with phone, but gives you an idea... looks much better with new clocks.
she's a "slabby" for those in the know, thats an OLD gsxr 750 endurance for those also in the know, circa 1985 (B plate), uk reg'd although originally imported. daytona throttle (not the triumph type), i.e. 1/4 turn from 0-full. when i said the back end is a 1-off, basically its from a home made mould, done in GRP (fibre-glass), not done by me, but theres probably a few duplicates been made from the same mould. the can is a standard one thats been 'chopped' - sounds evil.
engine is air cooled (the rad-type thing up front is actually an oil cooler), straight 4, short stroke, revs merrily to 10k+. mikuni twin carbs (shite), apparently been dyno'd and jetted etc (hmm, dont they all say that!) with k&n filters, hydraulic clutch, braided hoses, blah blah blah.
the tail light where the number plate is fitted is an LED one (e marked), and the one you can just about see right on the back is one I fitted (took a while to find one that would actually fit!), and used a spongey cut out from a dolly front indicator gasket to stop it knackering the paint.
bars (of the renthal variety) are on very tidy aluminium risers from the top yoke. nice bmx style crash pad!
slow compared to vtr, top end maybe 120, short geared for front wheel lifting abuse, pulls very hard through gears to about 4th then starts to run out of puff. cheaper to run and insure than vtr, not really that arsed with bikes over the last yr or so, but this is fun in a different way to vtr, and not quite as dangerous speed-wise, and means i can keep my full no claims while having somthing to plod about on when the mood takes me, hooligan styleee...


its a bit of a tossy pic taken with phone, but gives you an idea... looks much better with new clocks.
she's a "slabby" for those in the know, thats an OLD gsxr 750 endurance for those also in the know, circa 1985 (B plate), uk reg'd although originally imported. daytona throttle (not the triumph type), i.e. 1/4 turn from 0-full. when i said the back end is a 1-off, basically its from a home made mould, done in GRP (fibre-glass), not done by me, but theres probably a few duplicates been made from the same mould. the can is a standard one thats been 'chopped' - sounds evil.

engine is air cooled (the rad-type thing up front is actually an oil cooler), straight 4, short stroke, revs merrily to 10k+. mikuni twin carbs (shite), apparently been dyno'd and jetted etc (hmm, dont they all say that!) with k&n filters, hydraulic clutch, braided hoses, blah blah blah.
the tail light where the number plate is fitted is an LED one (e marked), and the one you can just about see right on the back is one I fitted (took a while to find one that would actually fit!), and used a spongey cut out from a dolly front indicator gasket to stop it knackering the paint.
bars (of the renthal variety) are on very tidy aluminium risers from the top yoke. nice bmx style crash pad!
slow compared to vtr, top end maybe 120, short geared for front wheel lifting abuse, pulls very hard through gears to about 4th then starts to run out of puff. cheaper to run and insure than vtr, not really that arsed with bikes over the last yr or so, but this is fun in a different way to vtr, and not quite as dangerous speed-wise, and means i can keep my full no claims while having somthing to plod about on when the mood takes me, hooligan styleee...

Last edited by Dollyboy on Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
she'll be on the road again tomorrow hopefully.
still a couple of little wiring glitches to sort out. bandit is liquid cooled so muppet lights include a temp warning light. slabby cluster had a side stand light but air cooled so no temp warning... so substituting temp light for stand light. bike wiring is full of common positives as well as negatives, hence my original wiring dilemma.
also on top of that, when you put sidelight on, main headlight comes on too... sounds easy to fix, but actually not that staright forward. light switches on RH handlebar, main/full beam and flasher are on LH handlebar. headlight wiring feeds from fuse box half way along the bike. flasher is not a parallel to main beam, so theres headlight and main beam wiring all over the fookin bike, which has been spliced about and mod'd already by PO's, so all in all a bit messy. im sure my electrical powers will shine through, just a matter of time...

still a couple of little wiring glitches to sort out. bandit is liquid cooled so muppet lights include a temp warning light. slabby cluster had a side stand light but air cooled so no temp warning... so substituting temp light for stand light. bike wiring is full of common positives as well as negatives, hence my original wiring dilemma.
also on top of that, when you put sidelight on, main headlight comes on too... sounds easy to fix, but actually not that staright forward. light switches on RH handlebar, main/full beam and flasher are on LH handlebar. headlight wiring feeds from fuse box half way along the bike. flasher is not a parallel to main beam, so theres headlight and main beam wiring all over the fookin bike, which has been spliced about and mod'd already by PO's, so all in all a bit messy. im sure my electrical powers will shine through, just a matter of time...

I thought all Dolomites Tachos were that dodgy.
I'm sure Lewis said his was when he had a ride in my car some time back.
And Kev who set the carbs, valve and ignition timing up last time it had work done to it? MEEE
Took it to George once the gasket had just been done and he double checked everything, all bang on 

And Kev who set the carbs, valve and ignition timing up last time it had work done to it? MEEE


Saw this today too, Spoon built, safe to 11,000RPM engine, great stuff 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl8T9KFgjWc
Drift king Tsuchiya sounds like he likes it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl8T9KFgjWc
Drift king Tsuchiya sounds like he likes it
