The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Jon Tilson wrote:They go inside the car by the seats and hold up the gearbox cross member. They should be silver not black.

Lol..

Jonners

Strictly they are yellow passivate but I'm sure black powder coat will do, it as it anyone will see them.

Hehe....they will more than likely be seen as there won't be any carpets or anything in the car....anything that is not bodywork, which will be white, will be black.

Out of interest, what thread form are they please?

5/16" UNF

Mad Mart wrote:5/16" UNF

I've entered you on Mastermind.....I hope your general knowledge is up to scratch!

Bit of a step forward today...just had the chaps round to give me a quotation for paint in 2 pack and it looks like being around the £3.5k mark, to be undertaken in May.

I have had another quote of a grand less, but I know that chap, whilst very good, is very unreliable and these guys (http://www.motorsportpaint.co.uk) have a great reputation.

I would have liked to have brought the price down a bit by doing a lot of prep myself, but since having spent 4 days in Hospital in Portsmouth after being taken ill at Goodwood, have been advised to take it easy for a bit. Consequently, it's going to cost me a bit more to get done, what I can't really tackle for a while.

Additionally, I pick up my shot blasted exhaust manifold and powder coated rocker cover tomorrow night, and my replated door latches and shot peened inlet manifold from Niphos in Crewe tomorrow.

So, progress, progress!

Pictures to follow obviously

£3.5K sounds about right for a decent job. They weren't on my radar at the time of having mine done. There's several places in the locality round there including where mine got done. Most of the money is in the prep and finishing, mine ended up with nearly 180 hours because of various dents, setting up on a jig, re-positioning the B-Post on one side and flatting and polishing afterwards.

I do know a chap on Cockshades Farm nr Wybunbury who seems to do a good job if you want details to compare and contrast.

SprintMWU773V wrote:£3.5K sounds about right for a decent job. They weren't on my radar at the time of having mine done. There's several places in the locality round there including where mine got done. Most of the money is in the prep and finishing, mine ended up with nearly 180 hours because of various dents, setting up on a jig, re-positioning the B-Post on one side and flatting and polishing afterwards.

I do know a chap on Cockshades Farm nr Wybunbury who seems to do a good job if you want details to compare and contrast.

I'm pleased you've said that Mark....I seem to think that's what Mad Mart kinda pays for his resprays.....I would be very interested in this chap at Wybunbury just to see what he thinks please...by the way, have you had any experience of or know anything about Trevor Farrington Restorations in Allostock? Tried to get him to give me a quote but he's not playing!!

Yes, that's around what I usually pay, after stripping the car to it's shell. May be a bit more if there is a lot of welding to be done.

Edit: Of course it depends where abouts you are in England. If you're getting a respray in the London area then expect to pay a lot more.

Yep,I guessed that would be the case Mart....they seem reputable enough and said all the right things.......it's properly booked in for the 2nd of May and will take a month which suits me as it'll give me another month to save up some more funds and get all the bolt on bits coordinated/sorted through.

In the mean time, I've been to pick up some stuff from the platers....



I left the thermostat housing in the picture to show a before and after...



I have an inlet manifold gasket, but do I need to use any hylomar?

I'll be picking u the exhaust manifold up soon and will then be bolting it to the engine.

I don't use anything on new gaskets. Maybe a spot in the corners of the sump.

I would get five new ones. Only one of those is correct as they should be bolts (with a shank) not set screws.

Ah, did wonder about that Mart...couldn't work out why they would need to be fully threaded!

From Rimmer's then, or would you suggest someone else Mart?

I ask as HB0980 is shown as being 3 3/4" but the equivalent Rimmers one is 4" long....

I get mine from the local hardware shop.

Looking at all the plating and stuff going on, wouldn't it be best to get some fancy-coated bolts?
Not sure what would be best for all the heat/cool cycles, maybe nickel plate or cadmium plate? Just guessing. Would stainless be too soft?

Yeah could do I suppose.....just need to find a source. ..

Mart, you have a access to a hardware shop?

Wow, I remember those!!