Newguys Sprint Conversion

[zombeh]

To get the gaskets to remain in place as you fit the cover I use a little grease.

Get a few 1/4unc screws and cut the heads off then put slots in the end for a screwdriver, they'll hold it all still while you put the cover on then you can take them out and replace with your screws one at a time

(I forget who's fantastic idea that is, but it came from someone on here)

[newguy]

Well tonight i spent a bit more time on the car.


Checked the timing with my strobe, was idling at 900 rpm or so and the timing marks were about a cm off the timing marks themselves.
So i advanced it till i got the idle to 10degrees or so, going to get a better light off a mate tomorrow though.
Fixed my oil leak by putting some washers on the screws, as i changed to the hex type you all talk about.
Got my dash lights working.
Installed old smiths fuel gauge so it looks the part.
Secured a things a bit more tightly went for a few strops up the road, man i love 2nd gear in this thing!
I wonder what my ratio is with the Auto Diff??????

So a few small improvements, it was raining so i wasn't that enthusiastic about lying on the ground etc

[Jon Tilson]

If you still have the dolly auto diff at 3.27:1 it will be a bit higher geared than the sprint should be at 3.45:1
The dolly 1850 is 3.63 to 1 but has a higher 1st and second gear ratio than a sprint.
But be advised...the 3.27 diff was marginal on GT6's so will be even more so on a Sprint.
Thats why Triumph used the TR4 sourced axle in the sprint...

if they could have got away with the smaller diff they would! So use it sparingly....

Jonners

[straylight]

great to see and read about stew. the enthusiasm is awesome

gotta say though, I'm not a fan of the push button starter system. Anyway you can go back to the key ?

[newguy]

If you still have the dolly auto diff at 3.27:1 it will be a bit higher geared than the sprint should be at 3.45:1
The dolly 1850 is 3.63 to 1 but has a higher 1st and second gear ratio than a sprint.
But be advised...the 3.27 diff was marginal on GT6's so will be even more so on a Sprint.
Thats why Triumph used the TR4 sourced axle in the sprint...

if they could have got away with the smaller diff they would! So use it sparingly....

Jonners

Ohhh s##t so i have a weak diff?
So what can't i do?

[newguy]

great to see and read about stew. the enthusiasm is awesome

gotta say though, I'm not a fan of the push button starter system. Anyway you can go back to the key ?

Thanks man
Umm i think id have to change the key barrel as i don't get a switching 12 volt supply
I love the push button start, i will move it later on and change the button

Why don't you like it???
love the comments and ideas guys

[DavePoth]

If you still have the dolly auto diff at 3.27:1 it will be a bit higher geared than the sprint should be at 3.45:1
The dolly 1850 is 3.63 to 1 but has a higher 1st and second gear ratio than a sprint.
But be advised...the 3.27 diff was marginal on GT6's so will be even more so on a Sprint.
Thats why Triumph used the TR4 sourced axle in the sprint...

if they could have got away with the smaller diff they would! So use it sparingly....

Jonners

Ohhh s##t so i have a weak diff?
So what can't i do?

If you're using the Sprint Auto diff then it's a 3.45 one, and exactly the same as the manual sprint. If you're using the diff from the 1850 then it's a 3.27. and will be physically quite a bit smaller. If it is the 1850 one it'll probably destroy itself quite quickly if you drive it "enthusiastically" in the lower gears.

[sprint95m]

If you still have the dolly auto diff at 3.27:1 it will be a bit higher geared than the sprint should be at 3.45:1
The dolly 1850 is 3.63 to 1 but has a higher 1st and second gear ratio than a sprint.
But be advised...the 3.27 diff was marginal on GT6's so will be even more so on a Sprint.
Thats why Triumph used the TR4 sourced axle in the sprint...

if they could have got away with the smaller diff they would! So use it sparingly....

Jonners

Ohhh s##t so i have a weak diff?
So what can't i do?

Didn't you swap the complete back axle from the white Sprint onto the red 1850?
I think you must have done as you are able to use the propshaft from your father's manual Sprint. So if you have the Sprint axle fitted the good news is that the diff is the correct type and ratio, if not, fit the Sprint axle from the white car .

What Jon said is true, the T2000 range use the TR4 type diffs too......

[newguy]

Yea it was just he said the Dolly Auto Diff, i automatically thought he knew i had the sprint Auto Diff in there. Not a Diff anything to do with a 1850 etc.

Thats good news then, ill still look after it till i source another.

Thanks for the info guys, and ian knowing my thread.
I almost didn't sleep last night over this one.

[newguy]

Timing question

With the ignition timing, i have it at 900rpm or so the timing is on 10 or 11degrees
When i rev the engine it advances alot more like 3 cm or so away from the timing marks.
This is right isn't it?
So its advancing the spark even more is its way before tdc instead of after?

[newguy]

Costs To date

Car Purchase Price $400
Head Gasket Set and Conversion Set $198.53
Thermostat $25.00
Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders $37.13
Clutch Hose $6.00
Clutch Cover $80.00
Clutch Plate $100.00
Release Bearing $30.00
Fan Mounting Kit $12.44
12Inch Fan $80.00
8X Hex Bolts for Rocker Cover $9.77
Water Pump overhaul kit $87.50
Water Pump Rebuilding $74.81
Fuel Hose $14.15
Fuchs 20W/50 and Water Wetter Coolant $45.10
Fuel Pump with filters $125
Head Skim $50.00
Blade connector Female $5.49
Blade connector Male $5.49
Power built 9/16 spanner $13.49

Total Cost With out My dads Gearbox, Dads New Short Block, New Drive Shaft Yet to be made, Tools that ive brought, Air compressor, imperial spanners etc.

$1524.90

That's 585.847 GBP

[straylight]

Umm i think id have to change the key barrel as i don't get a switching 12 volt supply
I love the push button start, i will move it later on and change the button

Getting a new barrel wouldn't be too hard would it ? I have a 2500TC barrel here, haven't looked at it too closely (son locked it in the boot of the 2500 wrecker ) but I'd guess it would be the same. That triumph farm you had pics of would be sure to have a new barrel.

Dig out with the starter button though, I can see it gives a certain "phwoooaar" factor

Thanks for the info guys, and ian knowing my thread.
I almost didn't sleep last night over this one.
Yea it was just he said the Dolly Auto Diff, i automatically thought he knew i had the sprint Auto Diff in there. Not a Diff anything to do with a 1850 etc.

Thats good news then, ill still look after it till i source another.

Thanks for the info guys, and ian knowing my thread.
I almost didn't sleep last night over this one.

yeah ! I picked up on this too, it is almost as if Ian is there taking notes ! I was confused by the first reference to the 1850 diff, let alone followed the story with the auto-diff. My excuse is I'm not familiar with any of the diffs except my own (which I don't know that well either) so wasn't in a position to be offering advice

but I can help with the timing thing. Yes, the ignition should advance under increasing revs.

noting the distributor rotates twice for every engine rev, the data shows that at 2000 engine rpm (or 1000 dis rpm) the centrigugal advance should be an extra 4.5 to 9.5 degrees depending on what dizzy you have and the vacuum advance will kick in up to 12 more depending on vacuum and dizzy type. Check out p 05-1 in the sprint repair ops manual for data specific to your dizzy ot tell me which type you have and I'll put up some figures. It'll be an A (41402/313177), B (41589/RKC 0695) or a C (41655/RKC 3034) these are lucas and stanpart number respectively. So yeah, I'd think the timing mark would disappear off the scale.

stu

[newguy]

Umm i think id have to change the key barrel as i don't get a switching 12 volt supply
I love the push button start, i will move it later on and change the button

Getting a new barrel wouldn't be too hard would it ? I have a 2500TC barrel here, haven't looked at it too closely (son locked it in the boot of the 2500 wrecker ) but I'd guess it would be the same. That triumph farm you had pics of would be sure to have a new barrel.

Dig out with the starter button though, I can see it gives a certain "phwoooaar" factor


I have my sprints Barrel, i really can not be fucked changing it over lol.
I like the push button but im gunna do a nice in dash one.

Thanks for the info guys, and ian knowing my thread.
I almost didn't sleep last night over this one.
Yea it was just he said the Dolly Auto Diff, i automatically thought he knew i had the sprint Auto Diff in there. Not a Diff anything to do with a 1850 etc.

Thats good news then, ill still look after it till i source another.

Thanks for the info guys, and ian knowing my thread.
I almost didn't sleep last night over this one.

yeah ! I picked up on this too, it is almost as if Ian is there taking notes ! I was confused by the first reference to the 1850 diff, let alone followed the story with the auto-diff. My excuse is I'm not familiar with any of the diffs except my own (which I don't know that well either) so wasn't in a position to be offering advice

but I can help with the timing thing. Yes, the ignition should advance under increasing revs.

noting the distributor rotates twice for every engine rev, the data shows that at 2000 engine rpm (or 1000 dis rpm) the centrigugal advance should be an extra 4.5 to 9.5 degrees depending on what dizzy you have and the vacuum advance will kick in up to 12 more depending on vacuum and dizzy type. Check out p 05-1 in the sprint repair ops manual for data specific to your dizzy ot tell me which type you have and I'll put up some figures. It'll be an A (41402/313177), B (41589/RKC 0695) or a C (41655/RKC 3034) these are lucas and stanpart number respectively. So yeah, I'd think the timing mark would disappear off the scale.

stu

Sweet ill check it out tomorrow, she starts first pop really easy, and does not run on. So im guessing these are good signs ill have a look tomorrow stu

[newguy]

Spent a few hours on the car tonight, got the driver seat out, old seat belts, carpets, rear seat etc.
Cleaned all the paint work down to get all the sticky stuff off.

Pulled the seats out of the sprint, My newly fitted belts, Rear seat and fitted it all to the Donor.

Put in my car mats and she is starting to look ace already!!!

Kept the old carpets of course to cut my new ones out of after i get a Warrant of Fitness etc.
Ran out of time but i was going to fit the rear lights up and get all the front ones going.

Started it and ran it till it warmed up but i didn't take her for a drive, gonna fit the Tunnel Cover tomorrow (hopefully itl reduce the noise in the car)

Carpets that i took out will help make it lighter as well hehehe

[sprint95m]

The switchgear (including ignition switch) from a T2500 can be used in a Dolomite.
However you have to check which type of plugs you have. Up to approximately '73 grey rubber plugs/sockets were used, thereafter white plastic ones were employed.
Stew your white Sprint should have the plastic type whereas the 1850 loom you are using has the other type.

(I think Stag switches are also the same.)



Stu, are you still waiting for the Sprint to be painted?