Bruce the FWD

[mbellinger]

I have posted on your wanted thread but if you have that much crap in the pump it almost certainly points to internal corrosion in the tank.

I would order a new pump from Mick Dolphin and remove the tank and flush thoroughly. Also for good measure replace the fuel line running from front to rear.

Blow all the lines through with compressed air between pump and carb as well.

[Pauldaf44]

Canleys have a pump its herald or spitfire but the part no is 208493 will it fit?

cheaper than a rebuild kit as well

As for the crud I wouldn't be suprised if a lot of it is because ive run the tank dry a couple of times and pulled crap up as a result.

Paul

[Spunkymonkey]

Yes that pump will fit, Paul, but if it's really costing less than 8 or 9 quid then it must be made in China out of Yak cheese. Which means it'll fail again as soon as the curds dissolve. Paddocks also do pumps at about £15 and even that's on the cheap side

For the sake of a whole 30 minutes or so extra work rebuilding your existing one there's only one sensible option. Plus, you learn far more by stripping and repairing than just bolting on new stuff.

[Howard81]

The genuine QH Yak-cheese fuel pump I fitted to my Sprint a few weeks ago lasted all of two days! and that cost me over £20!

Rebuild the original and it'll last another 30 years

[Pauldaf44]

Im dubious about my rebuilding skills and would like a fall back for when I inevitably make a pigs ear of it.

Even if I replace the old part will be repaired as far as possible so that I then have a spare. I try and do this every time I take a part off a car. Sometimes fairly optimistically. Like boiling brake shoes in a futile attempt to make contaminated ones useable. If the car runs there is less pressure and im more likely to get it right first time

[Spunkymonkey]

By stripping it far enough to take the diaphragm out you've virtually rebuilt it anyway, Paul. The only difference is you put the new bits in instead of the old ones as it goes back together.

[Pauldaf44]

We have life. Got a 2500 pump for a £5 fitted it. The stud pattern is the same and so is the arm. Prime it with fuel turned the key and after a few attempts it starts and runs. The only problem at the moment it pumps just as much petrol onto the road as into the carb. Because I had to reshape the line to attach in now leaks from the union. A new line should sort it. But are there any bodgeneering fixes that will stop it leaking.

[JPB]

Glad you went for that option, can you not fit a slightly longer bit of flexible fuel line to reach the stub? Either way, shouldn't be too hard to sort a dribble. Where flexible meets the steel stub that goes into the olive on the cover, make sure you use a proper fuel pipe clip as generic worm drive ones are usually impossible to keep round at smaller diameters, which can in itself cause leaks.

....and I have yet to find that nitrile diaphragm yet to go with mine, even though every other AC pump in the place has one either fitted already or with it in the box. Definitely the right decision on your part.

[Pauldaf44]

The line from pump to carb is non flexible. Its the union thats leaking and not from the thread but from the pipe itself. I had to bend the pipe to get the angle right and think it has cracked inside the nut

[Spunkymonkey]

If that's the case then getting a new pipe flared is probably going to cost you what you "saved" by fitting an odd pump instead of getting the rebuild kit for a couple of quid extra, not to mention the fact that you're still car-less until you get it sorted whereas with the right bits you'd be back on the road

[Pauldaf44]

No crack just a bad seal. flair was a bit ovalled and needle pliers have sorted it. Having had the line of for inspection its going to need a new one soon as its quite badly rusted along its entire length. Its sealed now though and doesn't leak oh and Bruce runs if a bit roughly and a bit of reluctance to start. I think fettling the mixture settings is probably in order what with a new pump and carb diaphragm fitted it probably wants different settings now.

[1300dolly]

A 2500 pump will run at higher pressure to a 1300 pump, the pressure is regulated by the strengh of the spring under the diapham so expect over fuelling/ floodding or fuel p155 out of every joint.

[Pauldaf44]

If I cant get it right I will swap the springs between the 2 pumps then.

[JPB]

A 2500 pump will run at higher pressure to a 1300 pump, the pressure is regulated by the strengh of the spring under the diapham so expect over fuelling/ floodding or fuel p155 out of every joint.

The float needle should cope with any difference there since, regardless of the rate at which the pump is capable of fuelling, once the float chamber fills, then there'll be no more fuel coming through, certainly not as far downstream. The pressure capable of being delivered by that pump is dictated by the area of the valves. Upstream though, it is reasonable to suggest that the leak Paul had at the olive in the cover would have been made more noticeable by the higher available pressure in fact, with the old pump, that leak may already have been extant which would starve the float chamber.
They're like brake cylinder kits, propshaft u/js and fuses in that respect, in that mechanical fuel pumps come in very few basic types, none of them totally car-specific.

[Pauldaf44]

This car is once again resolutely refusing to start. Result it is now for sale to the highest bidder. I cant get it going and ive just had enough. Ive a feeling the highest bidder may well be the scrap man