The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

After yesterday's disappointment of finding a corroded NSR jacking point, I decided to carry on regardless.

One of the jobs has now been crossed off the list. I've cleaned and freed off the rear brakes. I gave then a good blast with the brake cleaner, I backed off the self adjusters until I could get the drums back on without any resistance and I moved the wheel clyinders back and forth several times to free them off.


The battery is still on charge. I had to disconnect the charger overnight so it hasn't been on constant charge. I'll be able to cross that particular job off the list soon.

I can't see the images in your post Dave? Protected in google or something?

All ready for September the 8th then...

Sam, they show up fine on both my home and work PC. Might be something to do with the fact that I use Chrome on the work PC. I think I can cross of the battery job on my list. I'll take a voltage reading when I get home from work. I know it isn't as simple as a voltage reading across the terminals but I will know if the battery is holding charge. The condition indicator is still showing green so I'm assuming it is fine. Something else I did which wasn't on the list was to check the lights. Everything is working except for the hazard lights. The first place to start is the switch because the indicators are working so I'll prise it out of the dashboard (it is the correct early rocker switch) and get some contact cleaner in it.

Wow, that jacking point is a disappointment, particularly after putting so much effort into the repaint.

Nice to see you giving it some attention Dave.

Sorry to see that it looks like really bad news, more than just a localised jacking point failure. That looks like rot along the entire length from the inside of the sill coming through. I would expect the outer sill and inner strengthener will be just a pile of dust on the floor once it gets explored:



As we know though it is all repairable and can be made good.

...and never use jacking points, always use the axle or the subframe. If you have to support the body only, spread the load with a hockey puck pad or block of wood or something similar.

Mark, I'm just doing that jobs I can do where the car is parked. Unfortunately, welding is not my forte and Adam is no longer on the scene since he split up with Jo (one of Anita's daughters). I'll have to far that job out and no doubt there will be more

I put the multimeter on the battery and it was reading 10.8 volts so I'm declaring it fubar and I'll get a new one ordered.

The switch for the hazard lights was fine. Spraying some contact cleaner didn't make any difference so I swapped out the flasher unit for a spare I had in the glovebox and hey presto, the hazards started working again.

I cleaned and vacced the interior and it is a bit better.

I've added another job to the list. I'm going to change the brake fluid. I can do that job where the car is and it is overdue to be changed.

Got a bit more done.

The replacement battery came in the post today so I got it fitted. I had to flip the clamp 180 degrees but it worked.

I've got No. 1 cylinder at in the right place for the firing stroke. I took the camshaft cover off to make sure that both valves were closed (the cam lobes are both NOT pointing down). While the camshaft cover was off, I decided to clean and paint it.


I'm going to laqueur it. The paint I used needs 24 hours to harden so I'll do it tomorrow.

Some of you had problems viewing the photos (I did it though Google) so I've gone back to good 'ol Flickr.

...and Adam is no longer on the scene...

What a blessing that is!

I gave the camshaft cover a few coats of lacqeur.

I'll leave it to dry off overnight before I refit it.

I've also put the charger on the new battery to keep it topped up.

Now that the lacquer has dried I fitted the camshaft cover to the engine.



It is looking better than before.

Much better! How's progress on getting it started going?

Just a fully charged battery, and the engine in the right place for the firing stroke on No. 1 cylinder. The next thing to do will be to pull the dizzy to check the points gap (easier with the dizzy out) and refit it in the correct position.

I put a multimeter across the battery terminals and it was reading 12.26 volts. The only possible power drain is the clock so I've disconnected the negative lead to prevent any further drain. The dizzy is 90 degrees out. The rotor arm is pointing towards the WRONG inlet manifold bolt. It should be pointing towards the rearmost bolt according to the factory workshop manual.

I've now got use of the garage again so I can work in relative comfort now that summer is behind us.