The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Thanks Tony,

I am planning on a reasonable cleanup of the exposed block while it's accessible, which should show it better.

The brass cage is to be removed next, but may have to wait a day or two. I have to remove the nut of the pump, and it's being awkward, it's currently being drowned in oils, may have to do some unconventional thinking to remove without breaking the impeller.

Dont forget its left hand thread . Someone with an air/impact gun would wizz that off easily. Hold the impeller with a thick pair of gloves (riggers/gardening type) and let the gun do the work. Impellers are like biscuits if you hit it

Tony

I put the impeller in a plastic jaw vice and used a rechargeable impact driver this morning.

The impeller was then still in the vice, so I inserted a smaller bolt into the shaft and softly tapped the impeller out.

No damage or marks, letting it all sit in degreaser till end of day.

Nice one....

I would also had I had the sense reminded you to drain the block of antifreeze from the drain plug. This takes the water level down
below the pump and would have stopped any coolant getting down past the pump onto the jackshaft and in to the sump...
I must get round to adding that to the wiki guide some time.

The pump oil seal is free to ride up and down the spindle...and the flinger disc MAY do but usually grips on the small diameter change/
The fact its free is a good sign.

The underside of your impellor is the crucial thing if you have a graphite type seal. The impellor MUST be a tight fit on the shaft and be gripped by the splines. They do go loose and can spin...in which case a roll pin CAN be used if you are careful and good with with a pillar drill.

Great pics too....

Jonners

Checked the splines, on the shaft they are nice and sharp, have to clean the impeller bore to check those.

The impeller does suffer from cavitation, but could be worse, I don't think there is a coating of anything to put on it in the world which would stop that. If there was, they'd use it on boat propellors. Will check tomorrow.

Have to still remove the brass cage, job for Saturday evening.

Dismantled the water pump shaft this morning,
and put some grease into the bearing.
Also put some grease onto the shaft where the bearing sits, may be wrong, and I dont think
after pushing the bearing on there's much left under there.

The new water flinger was tight and I didn't want to warp it, after looking around for items
which would fit over the shaft and be tight on the new flinger collar, I realised the best way
was to use the old flinger, which I inverted and put over. This allowed enough hand pressure
to insert the new flinger up to the O ring shaft.
I used the vice only as a means of support on the old flinger, and rubber malleted the shaft.
Easier than I expected, and no shaft damage or new flinger damage, only had to make sure
the shaft stayed vertical and soft taps.
Put it all together for now.
I more worried in case anything is in the wrong way round and if I have put the bearing and
flinger in far down enough, the score marks do seem to line up.
Impeller is to go on later.

Also I forgot to take pictures of how I removed the bearing, so I took a shot afterwards.

Nice work.

Many thanks Mart,

I hope it's right

I took pictures when I took the pump out, but should have taken 5 pictures from different angles, even with pictures it's easy to put some items in facing the other way.

Still not convinced on the condition of the impellor,
I think 2 decades of long term storage without draining
has taken its toll.
More worrying is, a bit more wear in the right place, and it will be in pieces.

Yes, it looks like something Tony Robinson dug up on Time Team!!!

Any use?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-STAG- ... 46444ee7b3

Great photos btw! It's going to be massively helpful when I put mine back in.

Have you considered Evans waterless coolant when refilling, IMHO its the nuts! Lowers cooling system pressure as well.

That's the only one I could find as well.

I am going to use the Evans waterless coolant, but only after a good few flushes have been carried out. The whole system has got oily, rusty deposits, it was a job to clean out the expansion tank.

I have got my new silicone hoses, again after a good few flush cycles.

Also I have found a cavitation reducing coating, I'm sure none existed 10 years ago, it's called Belzona 2141 (ACR-Fluid Elastomer) takes 48 hours to dry at 25°c.

Apparently it reduced a boat propellor monthly change to over 13 months service, in our cars probably a lifetime.

Now need to find a source and price, I'm not in the boat world, so an Internet trawl it is.

I have a complete pump with a 12 vane impeller on it, which, from memory, looks more like the ebay one than your old one. Might even be NOS, I got it in a big box of bits from Mike Papworth. I have to go down to the workshop tomorrow, I'll dig it out and re-examine it, if it looks OK i'll take a pic and post it here. I think your old one is fubared due to pitting of the face that bears on the graphite seal. Since neither my Sprint nor the Toledos have slant engines, it's no good to me so will be sensible money! I also have a sound 6 vane impeller but that won't help you cos it won't match your cover.

Steve

Thanks Steve,

Let me know, and I'll send payment over.

Also, are you up for the 2016 RBRR?, my entry
goes in this week.

Brass cage removal.
First attempt, FAIL, tried to freezer spray the brass cage, but it was pretty cold this morning, and the freezer spray only goes down to -55c.

Second attempt, FAIL, tried to lever the cage out without damaging.

Third attempt, I know it will not come out easily, and that I am going to get hurt using conventional methods, as I dont have a slide hammer
or specialist tools.

Used a 1 3/4 bolt, wrapped some webbing around it, and inserted into and across the underside of the cage, making sure the webbing covered the whole bolt.
The rest is better explained in the picture.
Slowly lifted, wheels nearly off the ground, as I was taking a look, a ping sound, the cage flipped and fell to the ground under the car, as opposed to flying off
for a half mile.
Tools used, bolt, webbing, forklift.