The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

What a masterpiece!

HI Neil,
Just a picky to let you see how ive fitted my carbon roof
I have welded some thin steel brkts which I will epoxy the roof to
I have made them thin so I can push the roof to the body cut line to get them in the exact position

Then its just a matter of final fettling of roof to get the line cock on

Hope this helps don't know if you have done it a similar way ??
ATB Daz

He hasn't done that bit yet, we're trying to do everything that's easier with no roof first

Useful pictures, ta

Just been looking at the build and am very impressed at the work that has gone into it.
Can I mention something that we found in our own (not as good) project some years ago regarding the drivetrain. There are some pictures on page 9 and text referring to the alignment of the drivetrain and it all looks very straight which we found to be a problem. A very straight setup with all the axis in a straight line caused us a vibration problem. It was only cured by deliberately changing the diff nose and gearbox drive flange angles so the propshaft had a small angle to work through. Apparently a perfectly straight system allows any tiny amounts free play to cause vibration. Give it a small angle and it goes away.
I hope you don't find any similar problems but it might be something to bear in mind if you do.

Can't wait to see it on the road.

The diff is iirc 2 degrees nose down and it's off to one side (the drive flange is not in the middle of the axle). The gearbox is I think in the middle.

zombeh wrote:The diff is iirc 2 degrees nose down and it's off to one side (the drive flange is not in the middle of the axle). The gearbox is I think in the middle.

That sounds like you should be OK and won't have the vibration problem we had. Keep up the excellent work!

I really like what you have done with the starter motor relocation. It hadn't even occurred to me that it would be straightforward.

I'm designing a header manifold and moving the starter will free up all the room I need. Can you share any more info on how you managed it? What sort of starter, mods to the gearbox adaptor etc.

Ironically, Triumph had the starter on this side of the engine in the six cylinder cars and the bell housing bulge is obviously still there.

Tom

Sorry, I have been side tracked lately.
Cheers for the pics Darren.

As for the axle as Steve says, it is not as straight as it looks will hopefully not have the problems you had, only time will tell, thanks for the advice.

Tom
The Starter motor is a Brise one with a zetec nose fitted that I Have then machined down to give more clearance to the block. I have had to lightly dress the block as well.
I welded an extension piece onto an ally backplate i had and machined a new hole. Have yet finish modding the adapter plate. Next time I take it out I will take some better pics as I forgot. If you want any more info or dims drop me a pm.

The Dutch way. Jeroen

Thought it was time I actually did an update.



Found a convenient location for a knock sensor with enough meet to drill and tap the block.



Machined up the oil pump pulley, the oil feed housing & the alternator belt tensioner bracket



Made the bracket for the dry smp pump though this turned out to have to much flex and now has a second fixing point attached to it.


Bracket welded onto the timing chain cover for the dry sump pump


Dry sump pump test fitted, you can also see the alternator half in place which is off Steves supra, but required a bit of machining to give clearance to the oil hoses



Water pump hosing modified to suit the electric water pump.


Water pump fitted in place though it no longer fits there so will need to make some new brackets for it.


My fisrt stab at a prototype sump.



My second stab at a prototype sump, this is pretty close to how the final version will be but in ally and with all the gaps filled in.


sump trial fitted & scavange pipes made up ready for welding.


belts and associated components all fitted up.



Decided it was time to try something new and inspired by Darren so purchased all the kit to make resin infusion components.



First attempt at making a plug, this subsequently got scrapped along with the first attempt at making a mold.


Second attempt at a mold being split from the part in this pic.


Component being made.


Component removed from the mold.


component (half an airbox) cleaned up and fitted to the car, this was only ever meant as a test and trial piece and has quite few problems, the next one will be much better and the final versions in carbon.

this car is going to be mental!

How will you wire in the knock sensor Neil? I've wondered how to integrate one into Microsquirt for a while.

On the Vems 2 wires just go straight back to the ECU, I think I used a piece on twin core screened.

Nice one Neil ,
Looking really good
You will be making lots of carbon parts now its addictive LOL
Forget the infusion mesh and peel ply
This is what you want believe me
So much easyer to work with as its fused together
http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/p ... uply2.aspx
Keep the updates coming I was getting withdrawal ,

Not too much carbon stuff to make, doors, bonnet, boot and roof for my TVR, and might maybe find time to do a handful of bits of Dolly